rear AC

[dirtanddogfur]

My AC no longer blows cold air. This was a gradual decline. I noticed a leak in the rear unit line just below the actual AC unit. I did not dig too deeply into the actual source.



Ford wants to charge me $3000 to replace those rear AC lines.



Can anyone confirm this is absolute insanity?

 

[REDOVAL]

Does the front AC still blow cold air? If so, it's more likely a rear blend door failure or expansion valve that needs to be replaced. The front and rear ac units share the same pressure and return lines.

Scott

 

[dirtanddogfur]

No cold air front or back.



I need to get the van back from Ford and crawl under there and look around. I just have a hard time believing all the lines are bad.

 

[REDOVAL]

No cold air front or back.



I need to get the van back from Ford and crawl under there and look around. I just have a hard time believing all the lines are bad.

My setup had a tiny pinhole leak in the hard line to rear unit caused by rubbing on a brake line rock guard near the driver side front shock mount. I was able to diagnose the issue by pressurizing the system with nitrogen at low pressure and soapy water to find the leak. I simply cut out the bad portion and used a Swag-lok union to reconnect the line. The system was refilled and verified leak free and has been good for years since then. It is always advisable to change the drier and orifice tube if you have the system open.

When quoted by a local shop for this same repair they also told me $3k plus....I had to laugh and learn the ropes to do it myself for the cost of a few specialty tools and refrigerant.

Scott

 

[dirtanddogfur]

Great, thanks for the info.



I have another shop I have used for years. They are going to take a look at it. They have been good with 'work arounds' in the past. Hopefully, they have a fix like yours.

 

[carringb]

It’s expensive because Ford only does the entire line set, which is actually the best long-term fix. The forward half isn’t easy to get to, so there’s a lot of labor involved.

Other shops may be willing to replace only one section, but it also depends on your vans year. Older years don’t have lines available anymore so you have to upgrade to a full new rear line set and evaporator..

I’ve done it both ways. Piecemeal on the current van. In hindsight I should have just done the full replacement like I did one the first van. At this point, it’s turned into a game of replacing a section each summer.

 

[doublevan2]

Just my opinion but - I'd try an independent garage over an OEM garage first - it seems like several SMB owners that have posted on the forum have not been treated kindly by OEM garages - where when work has been done by them which "should" still be under warranty - have been denied it was "their" fault - and want to charge for their faulty work or parts again -

 

[doublevan2]

What year is your van - and what model of StarCool ?? It always helps to add this info -

 

[dirtanddogfur]

It is a 2012.



This is actually the OEM air conditioning unit in the rear of the van. This is only in use when I am driving.

 

[posplayr]

I simply cut out the bad portion and used a Swag-lok union to reconnect the line. The system was refilled and verified leak free and has been good for years since then.

Nice to know you can DIY a line repair with Swag-lol Unions. With this summer's heat, i have been rethinking the removal of my rear air. In Az the line sets are in excellent condition but I want to make room in the rear driver's side of an EB for a shower toilet and the rear air has to move.

By shortening the rear lines I'm hoping to move the A/C portion forward and probably just delete the heater portion to fit behind some cabinet space.

I had been looking at sourcing some custom lines but the Swag-Loks in the straight section inside the rocker panels should be a fairly easy spot to shorten the lines.

Thanks for the mention.

 

[doublevan2]

StarCool III Info -

This info is for any owners of StarCool rear AC systems - if seeking a replacement compressor - my research has come up with this info - compressor model# AJ4492Y-XA1A item# AJ4YL1AF643J70 - is a direct replacement - 3/4 hp unit - per Tecumseh Corp in Michigan. Original compressor discontinued. Compressors run about $ 900- to $ 1,200 - plus start capacitor, parts relay kit, parts overload, and shipping.

 

[dirtanddogfur]

Update:


I used to drive Volvos and I had an excellent mechanic who always had great work arounds to avoid outrageous Volvo repairs. Turns out he has expanded his repertoire and now works on everything. Brought the van in, explained what Ford told me.



Long story short: there was no leak. He recharged the freon. $235 all done.



To all Utah residents: avoid Ken Garff Ford in Draper.

 

[RVflyfish]

There’s a reason they’re called stealerships. Thanks for calling them out by name.

 

[REDOVAL]

Update:


I used to drive Volvos and I had an excellent mechanic who always had great work arounds to avoid outrageous Volvo repairs. Turns out he has expanded his repertoire and now works on everything. Brought the van in, explained what Ford told me.



Long story short: there was no leak. He recharged the freon. $235 all done.



To all Utah residents: avoid Ken Garff Ford in Draper.

That's great to hear it was a simple fix. I'm sure your guy already checked, but the service port valve cores are very common to be the source of most AC system leaks. On all my vehicles this has been the case and simply swapping them out with the correct tooling has had a major impact on the reliability of the system.

For those interested, the Mastercool 58490 valve core kit will cover all makes and models and is very easy to hot swap the cores without discharging the system.

Scott Thompson

 

[arctictraveller]

For those interested, the Mastercool 58490 valve core kit will cover all makes and models and is very easy to hot swap the cores without discharging the system.

Scott Thompson

Thanks Scott, thats the exact tool ive been looking for.