Rear Gas Tank, Titan, Gas Tank Depot or other

[Sheriffdoug]

Merry Christmas From Western Australia,

I am asking if anyone has installed a Titan or Gas Tank Depot rear/aft fuel tank, or had custom tank made?

What size is your rear tank, how big in gallons, plastic or steel and what does it weigh with fuel approximately?

TITAN Fuel Tanks

www.gastankdepot.com


Cheers Doug

 

[Twoxentrix]

A gallon of gas can be figured at about 6.5lbs per gallon...Water is about 8.5lbs/Gallon (These are rounded up slightly for simplicity). Sorry, can help with the rest.

 

[KTMRIDER-SMB]

Also check out the AEV Fuel Caddy. You may need to have a custom mount for it not sure but they are a quality product.

 

[TomsBeast]

Mine is 37 gallon steel tank, it still has room for a stock 2wd sized spare tire (before I removed the carrier crossmember).


I'm not too happy with the way it fills, though. The way the upfitter routed the filler neck hose, makes it so there's no additional filler door, there' just two filler caps where there was once one. But the routing makes it tough to fill at the pump, at least the pumps in here in the states. I'll re do it some day, for now I just complain about it every time I use it, as 80% of the pumps try to fill so fast, Diesel fuel foam backs up in the neck, and clicks off the automatic overfill prevention valve.

 

[johnsun]

I have a 2003 Dodge 1500 transport van 5.2L
Where is the location of the jack, lug nut wrench & spare tire lowering tool.
My 30 plus gallon gas tank shows empty after 14 gallons was used.
Is there a switch somewhere to activate the reserve extra gallons.
Embarrasing to ask
John of Kansas City
thanks

 

[mgmetalworks]

I've put the cutaway 55 gallon tanks in several EB vans.

The 40 gallon tank from the Eseries cutaway works in an RB.

Venting the tanks appropriately is very important. I use the factory tanks and vents so I know that they're set up like they would be in the E-series motorhomes or box trucks.

 

[Pntyrmvr]

I have a 2003 Dodge 1500 transport van 5.2L
Where is the location of the jack, lug nut wrench & spare tire lowering tool.
My 30 plus gallon gas tank shows empty after 14 gallons was used.
Is there a switch somewhere to activate the reserve extra gallons.
Embarrasing to ask
John of Kansas City
thanks

No idea where the spare tire equipment is.

Your 32 gallon tank has no reserve switch. The fuel sender in the gas tank is probably corroded.

Fix- carry a 5 gallon gas can and drive it until it runs out of fuel. Or replace the fuel pump module. That is the only way to obtain a new fuel sender for your Dodge. Not cheap.

 

[Sheriffdoug]

Hi, MGM Metalworks, Where did you get the Fuel Tank, how much, did it come with pump, pipes, fuel door, wiring, fuel guage, or from another source? please help?
Cheers Doug

 

[mgmetalworks]

Hi, MGM Metalworks, Where did you get the Fuel Tank, how much, did it come with pump, pipes, fuel door, wiring, fuel guage, or from another source? please help?
Cheers Doug

The tank is from the E-series cutaway/cab chassis models. The heavy duty 16ga steel tanks are up to 2008. After 2008 they went to a cheap stamped version, not worth messing with. Titan and MTS make cross-linked polyethylene replacement tanks. I've used both and they're both nice tanks.

The tank straps are available through a company called Liland
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-...=item5b3d5d2d47:g:vXkAAOSwcMhbnS0a:rk:33:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-...=item5b3d5d2d33:g:Y1sAAOSwxSZbnqIB:rk:34:pf:0

The diesel sending units are pretty basic. The correct sending unit for the '08 and earlier tanks is: Motorcraft PS-191. They are however outrageously over-priced IMO. The sending units for gas models are way cheaper and can be made to work (diesels don't need the pump inside the tank...same fuel level sensor though)

The wiring is straight forward...I just make an extension harness with the right connectors on it and it's plug in and go. Fuel lines can be extended with some adapter fittings to go from hard line to AN style. Then we use fuel hose with push lock AN style fittings. AN adapters at the sending unit too.

Then the mounting cross members. I've done many of these tank installs. The first ones were with the cross members that were salvaged from the motorhome/box truck chassis that we got the tanks from. These parts will fit but they're a pain to get in the frame, drill the appropriate holes, etc...

I'm now on the 2nd revision of my own cross members and they work much easier. Put them up in the frame, adjust things until its all square, clamp in place, drill some holes, bolts, tighten, done.

I made a special set of 'dimple dies' to create a recessed opening for the factory fuel door. Then we take the factory fuel door bracing and inner sheetmetal and fit it in the van behind the rear AC. You're left with a fuel filler opening that looks exactly like the original. No welding required...just the stomach to drill a 4 5/8" hole in the side of your van with a pretty tight tolerance of where it must go in order for all of the pieces to fit up right... haha

The paint can't handle the shrinking and stretching going on so it flakes off after pressing the recess

Another van just after paint

The fuel fill can also be routed into the wheel well area. I just like the factory look so I went through the trouble of making the dies and doing all the extra work.

 

[TomsBeast]

^^^^ I need this ^^^^^

 

[86Scotty]

^^^^ I need this ^^^^^

Every overland van does. I'd have it done already if MG didn't have the gall to live so dang far away from me.

 

[CactusJackSlade]

IMPRESSIVE! Thanks for sharing!

I made a special set of 'dimple dies' to create a recessed opening for the factory fuel door. Then we take the factory fuel door bracing and inner sheet metal and fit it in the van behind the rear AC. You're left with a fuel filler opening that looks exactly like the original. No welding required...just the stomach to drill a 4 5/8" hole in the side of your van with a pretty tight tolerance of where it must go in order for all of the pieces to fit up right... haha

The paint can't handle the shrinking and stretching going on so it flakes off after pressing the recess

Another van just after paint

The fuel fill can also be routed into the wheel well area. I just like the factory look so I went through the trouble of making the dies and doing all the extra work.

 

[Cali Native]

Beautiful work on the fuel door!

 

[Twoxentrix]

Agree - very well done.

 

[featherstone-SMB]

mgmetalworks I assume it is not CARB compliant for a V10.

 

[mgmetalworks]

The venting is the same and the fuel vapor canister is retained. We don't change anything about the evap system other than relocating some things a long the frame.

 

[ctb]

The talent some of you members display is truly genius! I could only take it to the shop and say hw much? LOL!!

 

[ravensix]

Nice work!!

What are the chances of renting the dimple dies? I would love to have an extra factory door for my rear axle fuel filler door.

Really can I rent or borrow those? Send me a message. I often visit Portland, OR. Maybe we can work something out.

 

[Turbo-SMB]

The tank is from the E-series cutaway/cab chassis models. The heavy duty 16ga steel tanks are up to 2008. After 2008 they went to a cheap stamped version, not worth messing with. Titan and MTS make cross-linked polyethylene replacement tanks. I've used both and they're both nice tanks.

The diesel sending units are pretty basic. The correct sending unit for the '08 and earlier tanks is: Motorcraft PS-191. They are however outrageously over-priced IMO. The sending units for gas models are way cheaper and can be made to work (diesels don't need the pump inside the tank...same fuel level sensor though)

For a '02 E350 RB running the 35/37/40 aft diesel tank is the PS-191 the right one or PS-146? Looking at rock auto it looks like for an aft fuel tank the 146 is the suggested fuel sender. Checking wrecking yards I can't tell what unit they are selling from '02ish models.