SMB 4WD Parts Reference Thread

deminimis

deminimis

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If anything is certain, breakdowns will occur on Sundays far from any shop/parts store that even knows what a SMB is. On my cross-country trip I lost a Warn hub and a u-joint. It is clear my first order of business will be to do a ground-up maintenance/replacement of my suspension and drive train. I will become intimately familiar with my SMB, but right now, I'm a babe in the woods. What we need is a thread with as many part numbers and/or cross-references as possible insofar as it relates to the SMB 4WD conversion. Imagine trying to get front wheel bearings in the middle of Baja without it. So, if you have absolute knowledge about any parts not listed, please list it here. Also, I know there is a Mods area on this site, but if you have mods specific to the SMB 4WD, I think it would be very appropriate to post specs/part#s here as well. Keep in mind, these values are for a '03 E-350/ '04 SMB conversion, so your's may be different. I've included a few difficult parts numbers as well for the '03 E-350 when I've discovered a lot of confusion between parts suppliers and Ford dealers (even Ford dealers often aren't exactly sure of a few parts with it comes to this particular year).

Rear U-joints: Stock Ford E-350 or Spicer series 1350 (through '03) or possibly 1410 ('04-on - According to Sportsmobile, but best to verify this).

Warn Permium Manual Hubs: 38826 (1-ton Pickup -Ford, Chev, Some Dodges)

Rotors: '95-'98 F-350 4x4, stud holes must be drilled to 21/32" for our larger studs. Auto Specialty part #DA 601125-D.

Hubs: Dynatrac

Calipers , pads: Stock E-350

For '03 (your year may be different)
Dynatrac Front Axle (Pro Rock)

Tie Rod Ends: Moog ES194R and ES194L

Drag Link (Motorcraft w/ updated part nos): 8C3Z 3304 G and 8C3Z 3A131 J

Ball Joints: Spicer 707238X

Wheel Studs: Ford F81Z-1107-AD

Timken Front Wheel Bearings:
Inner: 387A
Inner Race: 382A
Outer: LM104949
Outer Race LM104911
Grease Seal 48816
Spindle Spanner Nut: Spicer 33732
Lockwasher: Spicer 33733

Axle Shaft U-Joint: Spicer 5-332X
Inner Axle Seal: Spicer 36487

ABS Sensor Left: SM10067
ABS Sensor Right: SM10068

Linkage rods (shifters to transfer case): 3/8-24 (fine thread) x approx 12.5" for the longer reach ones like mine.

Rancho Front RS99001 (eyelets, ext 20.750"/colapsed 13.625")
Rancho Rear RS99179 (top stud, ext 22.370"/colapsed 14.000")
(That's what came on mine. Rancho parts listed to make cross referenceing easier)

**Upper Radiator Hose (2003 7.3 PSD Motocraft KM4665 (alt # 1C2Z-8260-E:cool: -Listed here because this is the much less common (longer) upper hose used on some of the '03 E-350 PSDs and there is much confusion when it comes to getting the correct hose).

**Idler Pulley. I'm listing this as again, there is a lot of confusion with parts suppliers and even Ford parts departments when it comes to the '03 E-350 7.3 PSD. My idler pulley is a cast steel smooth pulley that looks similar to a slotted mag wheel. In my case, the idler is located top and center. Please do not confuse this with the tensioner pulley setup. If your Ford has a stamped steel idler pulley, then this is NOT the pulley for you. Anyway, the cast steel one is Motorcraft YS287 (alt# Yc3Z 8678 A:cool:. Hold onto your wallet. List is better than $150. There is no aftermarket pulley available as best I can tell. rockauto.com had the best price that I could find.

Finally got Bilstein info. Decided to try SMB and guess what? Yup, they had the answer. According to SMB:

Bilstein part #'s are:
Front 1720-HO
Rear 1614-HO

Take that with a grain of salt. Checked the Bilstein website. The 1720 is the same shock used on the E-150 for the rear. The 1614 is listed for the rear of stock E-350s, e-450s, F-350s and so on. These basic Bilsteins may not be a great choice for a lifted, heavy SMB like ours.

Checked with Dynatrac this AM regarding torque specs for the front wheel bearing nuts for the Pro Rock front axle. I was suprised, so thought I'd better list the specs here:

Inner Nut: 50 foot pounds while spinning the wheel. Then back off 1/8-1/4 turn.

Outter Nut: 65-70 Foot Pounds.

You will need a 6-point /crown point wheel bearing nut socket (available at Napa, etc.)

I've edited/added part numbers over the months. If anyone cares to add part numbers, that would be great. Thanks.
 
FWIW - The front Bilstein shocks that were a bit too long on Jeff's SMB (see Deaver spring thread) were model AK7110SB06. Without actually measuring, it looked like the shock would bottom out at the same time or just before the axle would hit the bump stop (a bad situation). I didn't write down the model number of the rear shocks he had, but there were issues installing those as well.

I'll be curious to know what actually fits.

Phil
 
This is what I got from SMB on my 2006:



Tie Rod Ends:
Moog # ES2082R Dynatrac # DA60-3304-T
Moog # ES2083L Dynatrac # DA60-3304-U

Ball Joints: Old Spicer # 707238X Now 700238-2X
(My parts man had to order from Dynatrac and could not cross reference)

Brake Caliper/Pads: E-350

Brake Line: Stock Ford E350

Brake Rotor: 1995-98 Ford F350/Auto Specialty AR8553/ Dynatrac # DA601125-D

Wheel Studs: Dynatrac DA60-1107-AL / Dorman # 610-283

Timken Wheel Bearings:
Inner: 387A------------------Dynatrac # DA60-1244-A
Inner Race: 382A Dynatrac # DA60-4222-B
Outer: LM104949------------Dynatrac # DA60-1244-B
Outer Race: LM104911 Dynatrac # DA602-4222-C
Grease seals cross over to a 97 F-350 4x4 with some improved part #
Outer Grease Seal: 48816------------------Dynatrac # DA60-1175-D
1997 F-350--------------------------------------NS-475960 (two sided)
Improved Seal------------------------------------NS-415960 (three sided)

Spindle Spanner nut: Spicer # 33732-----Dynatrac # DA60-1195-A
Lock Washer: Spicer #33733 Dynatrac # DA60-1198-A

Axle Shaft U-Joint: Spicer # 5-332X---Dynatrac # DA69-3249-A

Seals are similar to 1997 F-350 4x4 axle
Inner Axle Seal: 36487-------------------------Dynatrac # DA60-3254-A
or NS470682

Warn Premium Manual Hubs: Warn # 38826

Yoke: 1350 Series Spicer # 3-4-5731X
(Rear drive line U-joints are both 1410)
ABS Sensor Driver Side:------GM 15990503
ABS Sensor Passenger Side GM 15990504

This is for a 2006 Pro Rock 5500lb rated front axle and may vary from year to year.

For more info contact Ebber @ SMB West or
Dan @ Dynatrac (714) 596-4461 ext 216

(I have been told that the ball joints, tie rod ends and U-joints can be ordered with grease zirks through MOOG or a few other companies such as Spicer)

For Gear oil I'm using AMSOIL severe gear 85-140 and for the limited slip I add AMSOIL slip lock additive. The rear takes about 3 qts and the front (a locker in my case) takes about 2 qts. In colder climates, a lighter oil can be used such as Torco 75/85-90. A lighter oil can help the locker engage quicker in very cold temps according to Sportsmobile. SMB suggests using 85-140 for most applications.
Atlas II transfer case info:
http://www.advanceadapters.com/knowledgebase/atlas-oil/
 
Last edited:
This is 7.3 PSD specific: Up pipe exhaust gaskets (donuts)

Ford: F4TZ-6K854-C
International: 1816103C1
(Napa) F17250 & Fel Pro 8194. (This is a generic donut often used with Chevys from the 30's through '87 -Most report these work better than the factory Ford donuts as they are a little wider, allowing for better compression and seal).
 
Just learned an interesting lesson on rotors. Not all 95-98 F350 Rotors are created equal. You would think, a 95-98 F350 is a 95-98 F350. But nooo...

I found this out the hard way on a recent brake job. Dealer checked and got 95-98 rotors alright, but after machining for the larger studs (think it was 11/16ths) they discovered a new issue--they were'nt fitting properly, making contact with the ABS sensor. I was sure they had gotten wrong rotors and now because the studs were drilled, they were basically boat anchors. Maybe they got Econoline stock or something, I thought.

But they had 95-98 F350 rotors. But turns out they were Ford factory/Motocraft 95-98 F350 rotors not Auto Speciality 95-98 F350 rotors. So I get on the phone with Heber and then Dynatrac and found that in some cases, apparently even with the Auto Speciality rotors, Dynatac has to machine them down ever so slightly to clear the sensor. Who knew. A week later, with some additional machining which I was a little leary about frankly, the van was back on the road but it was a rotor learning experience.

So if anyone is ever at a dealer or other mechanic make sure you specify Auto Specialty 95-98 F350 rotor vs Ford and even then be aware of a potential machining requirement beyond studs.
 
BC said:
Just learned an interesting lesson on rotors. Not all 95-98 F350 Rotors are created equal. You would think, a 95-98 F350 is a 95-98 F350. But nooo...

I found this out the hard way on a recent brake job. Dealer checked and got 95-98 rotors alright, but after machining for the larger studs (think it was 11/16ths) they discovered a new issue--they were'nt fitting properly, making contact with the ABS sensor. I was sure they had gotten wrong rotors and now because the studs were drilled, they were basically boat anchors. Maybe they got Econoline stock or something, I thought.

But they had 95-98 F350 rotors. But turns out they were Ford factory/Motocraft 95-98 F350 rotors not Auto Speciality 95-98 F350 rotors. So I get on the phone with Heber and then Dynatrac and found that in some cases, apparently even with the Auto Speciality rotors, Dynatac has to machine them down ever so slightly to clear the sensor. Who knew. A week later, with some additional machining which I was a little leary about frankly, the van was back on the road but it was a rotor learning experience.

So if anyone is ever at a dealer or other mechanic make sure you specify Auto Specialty 95-98 F350 rotor vs Ford and even then be aware of a potential machining requirement beyond studs.
Click to expand...

Something Similar related to Rotors..
You would expect My 96' E-350 Quigley to have E-350 Rotors, but nooo, there were F-450 Rotors!
Or at least that's what the mechanic was calling it after find out by putting on the wrong one with simillar fitting issues..
 
All good info here. Also doing a break job and have been pulling my hair out over rotors and wheel studs.

I found Rotors easy enough, however i will be checking the clearance issue concerning the ABS sensor. Thanks for the heard up.

I matched wheel studs out of the catalog at NAPA (FORD was too stupid to help).

NAPA # 641-2794 Wheel Studs

I'm not convinced on the Ford number given to us by SMB (F81Z-1107-AD does not have a large enough knerl)

This NAPA number is an EXACT match to what i had in my original rotors. ('05 SM:cool:

So i didn't read this thread until after pressing in the new studs into the new rotor. I thought they went in hard but i thought snug is good. Well turns out that the wheel studs cracked the rotor because they were too big, or rather i didn't think drilling bigger holes was required. I still didn't think drilling holes to suit is too legit but seems to be the norm on this thread. Since I've spent all day looking at various rotor applications without finding anything other than a 91 Chevy 3500 rotor that fit the wheel stud w/o drilling. I am going to buy another new rotor, 8 new studs and try again with drilled holes.

Edit - After finishing the project, I would note that the size of my original rotor holes were 11/16" or 0.688". I found this to be a better solution to the size noted above.

Thanks!
 
Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

Hiya -- please forgive me for starting yet another thread on shocks...

It's time for me to replace the original (Rancho RS9000) shocks on my 2004 Sportsmobile 4x4 (not Quigley/SK/QV). How can I find out the exact shock model #s to order (Rancho and/or Bilstein)? Or should I just ask Sportsmobile?

Also, as much as I like the adjustability of the Rancho shocks, I'm seeing a lot of praise for the Bilsteins. With my RB van, I'm imagining that being too bouncy on the highway isn't as much of a problem for me as for those with EBs -- but what I really want to avoid is aggravating the bone-jarringly-hard truck-like suspension that thumps with every little rock when driving offroad. For that reason, I've liked being able to dial my Ranchos way down offroad. However, the Burgesses made a good point...

yvrr said:
"Adjustable shocks", it sounds like the best possible choice. The problem is that rancho doesn't "tune" these shocks for a specific vehicle. Your thinking "so what, I can adjust them". But you only have one knob to turn and it changes the compression dampening and the rebound dampening at the same time. Unfortunately the rebound dampening rate is not enough even when on the stiffest setting. But the compression dampening is too stiff on the stiffest setting for a comfortable ride. What you end up with is a harsh pogo stick. It is jarring when you hit something (even small bumps) but the vehicle still bounces freely "up" much higher than it should after the hit. So then you land on the harsh compression stroke again and then it finally settles down.
Click to expand...

What do you run on your Sportsmobile 4x4 conversion?

Thanks!
-- Geoff
 
Re: Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

Mine is a Salem Kroger conversion, but I pulled off my Ranchos and replaced them with Bilsteins. I like the change. Better ride all around.

Mike
 
Re: Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

I have Rancho 9000's and they suck. Not nearly enough rebound resistance.
 
Re: Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

saline said:
Not nearly enough rebound resistance.
Click to expand...

Thanks -- Yes, I'm coming to understand that is the problem with the Ranchos.

So, I should go with Bilsteins. Can anyone share what models of Bilsteins you're using on your Sportsmobile-conversion 4x4? Or should I try contacting Bilstein or Sportsmobile?

-- Geoff
 
Re: Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

Somehow I didn't see that deminimis already posted the answer to my question.

Anyway, for a 2004 converted to 4x4 by Sportsmobile, the recommended Bilsteins are 1720-HO (fronts) and 1614-HO (rears). Sportsmobile also sells custom-valved Old Man Emu shocks for about $100 each.

I wasn't able to get a reply from Shane.Casad@thyssenkrupp.com

-- Geoff
 
Re: Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

BroncoHauler said:
So is Bilstein owned by Thyssen Krupp, an elevator company? Interesting. I'll have to pay more attention to the ride next time I'm in one of their elevators.
Click to expand...

Pay more attention by jumping. :a4:

Would that be different for a Deaver converted? I'd imagine the length is different.

Also, merging with sticky thread.
 
Re: Shock part #s for my 2004 SMB 4x4? (Bilstein/Rancho?)

jage said:
BroncoHauler said:
So is Bilstein owned by Thyssen Krupp, an elevator company? Interesting. I'll have to pay more attention to the ride next time I'm in one of their elevators.
Click to expand...

Would that be different for a Deaver converted? I'd imagine the length is different.
Click to expand...

Yes, the Deaver spring pack/Bilstein shocks are valved and specific to Deaver's specs from what Jeff at Deaver told me. I guess I need to find out those numbers.
Dave
 
For my 2001 SMB 4x4, after a bit of researching, I ordered the following Bilstein Shocks:

Front F4-B46-1720-H1
Rear F4-BE5-E074-HO

They both bolted up, with the exception of the lower shock mount. The thickness of the lower shock mount on the Bilsteins was about 1mm too thick, so I had to grind it down to make it fit, but no harm, no foul.
 
Shock numbers are for my '03 7.3L Quigley SMB, I have an '03 F-350 front end with Deaver rear leaf springs. Also of note, supposedly I have the heavy duty set of front coils that were spec'd out for fleet/ambulance use by Quigley, I think that helps overall with the ride and not hitting the bump stops so much that seems to be so common, also helps with that heavy diesel being up there. When I ordered up my set back in '09, I was told by the custom app guy at Bilstein that the valving on these off the shelf shocks was the same as what they would do on a custom set of 7100 series for me, except that I did not have to convert the stud to eye on the top, thus loosing what valuable travel I had, hence why I went with these. I am now looking at just replacing the aged skyjacker steering damper with a Bilstein unit that was not available at the time, I think I have the right part number for that....
Another note, I had Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks on the rig for a bit before yanking them, they were terrible!! Very happy with my setup now

Front Shock: Bilstein 5100 series (old number):F4-BE5-6243-H5 (Ford Bronco/F-150 w/4" lift)
(new number):24-185523

Rear Shock: Bilstein F-Series Motorhome (old number):F4-BE5-EO74-HO (yellow body)
(new number):33-186863 B6(C)=comfort
Alternate option,stiffer:33-186900 B6(HD)=heavy duty

Steering Stabilizer: Bilstein 24-158848 ('99-'04 F-350,F-450,F-550)
EDIT: the above stabilizer is for a 4X4 but did not fit my centerlink bracket, it has a cantilevered angle piece on one end. I am ordering up Bilstein 24-158930 that has regular eyelets on both ends, like the one that is on there now, check yours, I guess I should have looked at mine more closely.
EDIT#2-Bilstein 33-170794 is now on its way, 3 times a charm!! Has the 46mm body,eye to eye,14.7" compressed/23.6"extended, hope this one will do it.This one works!
 
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