Solar Panels and Shading

Scalf77

Senior Member
Joined
May 3, 2007
Posts
2,688
Location
Beaverton, OR
Since this question came up in a different thread, I thought I would answer it in its own thread instead of it getting buried in another but interesting thread.

Let’s look at the effects of shading on our solar panels, and ultimately what that means to how we choose our system, position both our panels on the van and other equipment on top of the van. I will try to keep it simple and try not get caught up in the technical issues (Reverse bias, forward bias, negative charge, etc.).

The panel below is made up of 36 Individual Solar Cells (36 Cell Panel), in this case it is 4 rows of 9 cells. Some of the older panels may be 32 (4 x8), there are also larger panels such as 60 cells (6 x 10) and 72 cells (6 X12). I will use the 36-cell panel for most of this discussion, but most of the data will apply to other panels.

65-albums111-picture37078.png


The cells are connected to each other in series, each cell puts out about 0.668 volts, so when connected we gat 36 X 0.668 = 24.06 which is the Voc of the panel. Each cell also can provide 9.77 Amps which is Isc. A shaded cell will drop both voltage and current it produces dependent on the amount of shading. The impact of a shaded cell goes farther than just the shaded cell. The cells are attached in series, and the lower current output of the shaded cell will limit the output of the other cells connected in series. This is much like a blockage in a water pipe, will limit the flow of water in the whole pipe. So, if one cell is shaded and puts out only 2 amps than all the cells in series will put out only 2 amps.

The problem with this is that the power created from the other nonshaded cells, must go somewhere. Unfortunately, because some of those technical issues (reverse bias) we see the shaded cell now becoming a consumer of energy, which creates hot spots. So not only does shading rob our overall system of power output, it can cause hotspots that can affect the lifespan of our panels.

Luckily the panel manufacturers put in some protection to offset the problem of shading. These protections are really to prevent hotspots, rather than provide better output. As we said the single shaded cell restricts the current of all the other cells in series, that current must go somewhere and generally its get dissipated by the restricted cell causing hot spots. This is where the bypass diode comes into play, when a diode is placed in parallel with the offending cell (in the opposite direction) the diode will create a short circuit around the cell letting that backed up power to go by. This of course limits the hotspot but does remove that cell from the capabilities of the panel. This sounds great if every cell has a bypass diode, then why should we worry. Well, because the diodes cost money, and it becomes a tradeoff of protection to cost. There is a least one solar cell manufacturer that has a built-in bypass diode, most do not and typically we will find them installed in the junction box.

65-albums111-picture37079.png


A very typical layout would be to have 2 bypass diodes for a 36-cell panel. That covers 18 cells with each diode. 60 cell panels usually have 3 bypass diodes across 20 cells.

65-albums111-picture37080.png


65-albums111-picture37081.png


Now what does all this have to do with the panels on our roof? Well first, we eliminate any shading in our layout. Many times, we have seen where the rack, vent or equipment box was shading a panel from the get go. Where you may run into some shading you can try to minimize it. In the following examples both have heavy shading of 4 Cells, but the resulting output of the panel would be completely different. In one case the shaded cells are across cells contained in both bypass diode circuits. It would essentially put out no power.

65-albums111-picture37082.png


The second example shows the four shaded cells contained in one bypass diode circuit. This would allow at least half of the panel to produce power.

65-albums111-picture37083.png


Now, before you go start rearranging your panels, let’s dive a little deeper. The first thing we need to look at is what kind of controller do you have? If you have a PWM controller you should stay in your seat. Imagine the above panel being an 18-volt panel, if we bypassed half the cells we could only expect half the voltage or 9 volts. This means the PWM controller would not have enough voltage to operate. If you have a MPPT controller, you could still pull some power out of this panel.

An example of tweaking the layout can be seen below, same two panels but with different panel orientation. In the top layout we can see some possible shading issues caused by the storage box. This is limited to some degree by the orientation of the panels. Shading by the box will only encroach on one of the two panels, and at worst one group of bypassed cells.

65-albums111-picture37085.png


In the example below, the box now is encroaching even more, guaranteeing more shading. The real problem is now we shade across both panels.

65-albums111-picture37086.png


The next layout is a classic problem, bars going over our panels. This example is somewhat exaggerated but its always good to check the shadow of bars, lights etc.

65-albums111-picture37087.png


Another thing to consider is roof vents, please check the shadow when the vent is in the most common up position and make sure where it is casting its shadow.

65-albums111-picture37088.png


In general, just use some common sense, most of our shading issues are going to come from other site issues. A disconnect switch may be useful, if you need to store items over the tops of your panels for various trips.

A couple of extra notes, as the solar cells seem to get more efficient year after year I expect that you will start seeing more bypass diodes, obviously the more current a cell can produce will impact the number of cells that can be protected by a single bypass diode. The number of diodes is not even listed on the spec sheets of most panels, you may have to call the manufacturer. My panels have three bypass diodes across 12 cells each instead of the 2x18 configuration

65-albums111-picture37084.png


A couple of good YouTube videos to explain the technical aspects of shading can be found here:



hope this helps a little.

-greg
 
. Each cell also can provide 9.77 Amps which is Isc. -greg



Most interesting, thanks. I knew shading caused a big drop in output, but didn't completely understand why., now I do. Above, you mentioned each cell providing 9.7A, is that correct? Are all cells in series, or do some manufacturers use a series / parallel configuration? I currently have three panels connected in series, so shading on one panel reduces the output of the entire array. Reconfiguring to a parallel connection would eliminate this problem, but means I would have to re-wire with larger gauge wire, so that's not on the top of the list. Anyway, thanks for the lesson.
 
As always Greg, awesome write up. Deserves a “sticky”.! Thank you for taking time to contribute this. Wonderful!
 
Jeff, if you are wiring three panels in series, your VOC is around 70 volts? Can your controller handle that??
 
Jeff,
9.7 is correct and from the spec of my panel (that is the short circuit current, Imp is 9.15 Amps) . The cells are connected in series so the panel voltage is added up, the currents are not, this is much like using two six volt batteries in series.

I have seen some 72 cell panels that are essentially a hybrid (two 36 cell panels in parallel) Generally most of the larger panels 60 and 72 cells are not considered "12 volt panels"

Panels in parallel will help with shading issues, you can also install bypass diodes across a whole panel if you chose to in keep them in series. You would still be limiting the power of that panel.

Panels in parallel also have to be somewhat matched or you could be loosing some power on that front.

-greg
 
You guys sure are smart.

And this is why I installed three 100W panels in parallel.. More than I need, but if I drop a couple diodes, I still have enough juice to keep the beer cold.

I have nothing on my roof to shade them, so I only have to worry about trees and the like.. and generally if then van is shaded I need less power to keep the beer cold, so ok with less power from the panels. And if the van is out baking in the sun and I need more power to keep the beer cold, then I've got full sun on 300W of panels, and the beer remains cold.

I should invent a new solar rating based on the temperature of a defined quantity of beer.
 
Last edited:
Great info! Makes me not feel too OCD that I did a sketch in Solidworks to figure out the shadow cast from my roof fan in relation to the angle of the Sun (and the subsequent "keep out zone") when designing my roof rack.
 
Very useful info - Manufacturers should include a copy with every panel sold.

Sure wish i had read this 6 month ago, prior to installing my replacement Panel - believe I would have done it differently.
 
Each cell also can provide 9.77 Amps which is Isc.
Ok, it's per panel not per cell. I wondered if there was some magic taking place there. Thanks..................

No magic going on, but the current per cell and per panel is the same. Maybe I confused you using Isc or short circuit current. The panel is 180 watt or Vmpp = 19.67 volts, Impp = 9.15 amps. Each cell would than produce a Vmpp of 0.546 at Impp of 9.15. The cells are in series so the voltage of each cell is added together. 0.546 per cell X 36 cells = Vmpp of 19.67. The current in series is the same for each cell , so each cell Impp is 9.15 amps. This is in part the problem with shading, if you shade one cell and reduce its current capacity by 50% , than you reduce the current capacity of all the cells by 50%.



-greg
 
Realizing now I should have asked one of you Solar guru's 6 months ago, I have a question that I'm hoping one can confirm: If I understood my research (6 months ago!) correctly, I installed a new flat panel on the existing Aluminuss rack mounts (160watt), and when i did the install I also added "Signstek Y Branch MC4 Parallel Connector Adapter" to the cable just after the panel and just before it enters the pop-top - in theory allowing me to just plug in an auxiliary 100 watt panel (with an extended cord) that I could position in the Sun when the vehicle is parked in the shade.
With that clarified, does the same principal apply concerning shading? In other words, if my rood panel is in the shade I know its not producing, but with the auxiliary panel in the sun (and plugged into the Y-connectors) I assumed I would still get a relatively good charge...correct??? (All panels have diodes - was under the impression this would prevent any negative type of "back flow"). So, Was my assumption correct, or do I stand in front of you an idiot?
 
Gar, am I completely out of touch on how much folding panels cost because the panel you referencing shows up in a google search around 1200$

On another point. The great advantage to permanent mounted solar is its always there to make power. Even a tiny panel will make more power if it's just there compared to a big panel that has to be deployed. It's my experience that solar is like a dripping faucet that adds up to a lot because its all the time vs full flow faucet that your waiting for.

-Eric
 
Is anybody using a foldable solar panel similar to the one linked below? Im considering this over a fixed roof solar panel. Would be used to keep a 3-way RV reefer's batteries charged.



Gar



FM16-7200 120W foldable solar panel - PowerFilm Solar



Gar- I think the long term longevity, or lack thereof, of the flexible solar panels out on the market has been well documented over the years. I could be wrong but it looks like the panel you referenced is of similar design in that the solar cells themselves are flexible. Even if the cells are small rigid units mounted to a flexible panel, I would still be cautious of it holding up long term. The connections between each cell will be flexed when deploying and when putting away for storage, something that will no doubt put stress on those contact points.

I supplemented my roof mounted 137W Kyocera with one of the Renogy suitcase units, they are available with/without their own charge controller. It works great as a supplement to my mounted panel and gives me some flexibility to maximize my solar input.



Without controller

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-w...lline-foldable-solar-suitcase-w-o-controller/

With controller

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase/

It also looks like they have one with a waterproof controller
I added an external plug in that is connected to my charge controller
dff10df785f0c0e2ced6d88a76b02b71.jpg

I made a storage box for it mounted under the rear shelf
8760f552d79db46a6a4d3964d80bbb52.jpg
 
Last edited:

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top