Starter clicking

[larrie-SMB]

Went to start the van today and all I got was clicking from the starter. Thinking it was a low battery I tried to jump start it with my Jeep. Still got clicking even with the Jeep on high idle. Am planning to check for corrosion on the starter wires. If it still clicks then it is a new starter. I have a three day window between rain storms to get this done.

 

[1der]

Also, check the connections at the starter solenoid and the solenoid itself.

re Battery- a really dead battery will not even allow a start with a jump. Check for battery voltage. If it is in the 10's, it will need quite a bit of time of charging to regain enough capacity to spin the starter. Toss a strong charger on it overnight or for at least a few hours. Then see if it spins the starter.

Once you get it started, check the charging voltage coming from the alternator. Should be in the mid to high 13's to low 14's.

Few things to confirm/eliminate before getting to pulling the starter.

 

[marret]

Ray covered it well in addition to what you said Larrie.

Many auto parts places will load test the battery as well. A battery resting voltage could be ok, but fail under load.

 

[N147JK]

If a jump doesn't change things, could very well be a wiring issue. I was almost stranded one time - same conditions. Out of pure luck, found the wire connection to the battery post connector was loose.. that is INSIDE the connector. Lesson learned was you have to check the wiring points you can't even see and would never suspect!

 

[gahamby]

I have found that a bad ground strap between the engine block and the frame can be the cause of these kind of troubles.

 

[marret]

Yep on ground. I just had the same issue with my Onan generator.

 

[kbeefy]

I think your on the right track, Ray covered pretty much exactly what I would do for a click no-start. As he mentioned, a very low battery often will not respond to just the current available through jumper cables.


Charge overnight and retest.

 

[N147JK]

As he mentioned, a very low battery often will not respond to just the current available through jumper cables.

For a long time I thought that was the case as well - that a battery that is compromised internally would interrupt even a jump start. But I don't think that's correct. The jump is typically connected directly to the cables through the clamps. You could disconnect the vehicle battery completely and just use jumpers and the system would work normally (until you disconnected the jumpers, obviously).

 

[Twoxentrix]

For a long time I thought that was the case as well - that a battery that is compromised internally would interrupt even a jump start. But I don't think that's correct. The jump is typically connected directly to the cables through the clamps. You could disconnect the vehicle battery completely and just use jumpers and the system would work normally (until you disconnected the jumpers, obviously).

I’d have to agree (based on my experience) - I’ve jump started vehicles using cables (with completely dead batteries) numerous times in the past…just left the cables attached for about a minute prior to turning over the engine. Success each time. Not sure if it would make a difference , but I’ve always carried heavy duty cables.

 

[kbeefy]

For a long time I thought that was the case as well - that a battery that is compromised internally would interrupt even a jump start.

I'm not suggesting it will 'interrupt' a jump start. If the starter load is low enough that the jumper cables can carry the current, no problem.


Usually (if it hasn't been sitting months/years) the starting battery still has something left in it, and jumping it gets it over the 'hump' to actually crank the engine fast enough to start.


Sometimes, if the battery is dead enough or the load is high enough (diesel engine) the 50A the starting battery can contribute in it's depleted state plus the 50-100 amps jumper cables can contribute just isn't enough to get things moving.


Maybe I encounter this more often than normal because I have so many large vehicles, or because I retrieve alot of dead vehicles. Maybe all 4 of my jumper cables just suck. My experience after owning/fixing/flipping over 100 vehicles is that a fresh battery is always better than jumper cables.


Think of the contact area on jumpers compared to suggested wire gauge... it's inadequate.

 

[1der]

I think part of the issue with a very dead battery sucks the jumping current before it can get to the starter. So, perhaps disconnecting a battery cable and having a really good set of cables and connect would make that viable.

 

[larrie-SMB]

I use a small solar panel to trickle charge the battery. The cigarette lighter plug in voltage meter was showing 12.5 volts before adding the jumper cables. It would try to crank and then start clicking. The rain is stopping tomorrow and then three days of dry weather.

Will definitely clean all the terminals before pulling the starter. Will also go old school and wack the starter with a hammer. That worked in my 59 VW van.

 

[bigriver-SMB]

Wack it Larrie!

 

[moorefc]

Typically the clicking is the solenoid trying to extend to make "solenoid slug" contact but not having enough energy/voltage to extend. Quickest test would be voltage on the inputs of the solenoid. If very low, check battery voltage during solenoid excitation (or do this first as its easy). Second test would be the voltage drop between batt + and + input on solenoid during excitation. Next do the same with batt - and solenoid -. These can tell which lead, if any, has a poor connection. Obviously if input voltage is good, replace solenoid or starter depending on parts supply and motivations. You can also bridge the output terminals with a screwdriver (old school VW) to verify the starter is good, but that is somewhat of a just for fun. This overlaps the advice from posts above....The sun is shining! Good luck Larrie!

 

[larrie-SMB]

Thanks for all your suggestions. Hooked up my battery charger to the battery for most of the day yesterday. It started right up in the afternoon. I measured the voltage at 12.4 volts before hooking up the charger. After the charger it was 14.4 volts. Am surprised that the van did not start at 12.4 volts. Let the van run at idle for about 30 minutes before shutting it off. Am glad the problem was not the starter.

Went out this morning to check it and found the voltage back to 12.4 and the engine would just barely turn over. Am wondering if there is a power draw that I do not know about or possibly a bad cell in the battery.

In any case I achieved my goal of getting the van moved from its summer parking space in the front field to its winter home in the driveway next to the garage. It is much easier to do maintenance in its winter location.

 

[marret]

Good news. I would take the battery for a load test. How old is it?

Sounds like it may need replacing. We all have current draws of course. You aren’t leaving your stereo switched to house battery are you?

 

[1der]

Yep, new battery but also clean connections. Resting voltage measured at the battery posts - 12.4 is a bit weak. But as marret says load test is the true test.

 

[gahamby]

That does sound like a bad cell. Is this a battery you can test with a hydrometer?

 

[kbeefy]

A battery can have a good voltage reading but low capacity, I'd charge it and have it load tested.


Corroded battery cables, bad connections, poor starter ground, or a failing/weak starter can all show similar slow crank symptoms.

 

[vlamgat]

A load test is essential to determine the battery state. This is because a cell can fail such that it produces its nominal 1.2 volts but is unable to sustain any amperage and shuts down when the jumpers try to bridge that failure. You can test the SG of each cell to check for this. Cells are failing these days because of the low quality lead being used in the battery manufacture as recycled material is not adequately purified. Big issue in life/death operations like aerospace and Special Forces.