Scalf77
Senior Member
This is a broad and ranging topic depending on what your overall goals are. I will try to give some data here but, places like Mobile Internet Resource Network live and breathe this kind of stuff. It is also a topic that technology is always rapidly changing. And to be clear I am sure some of you do not want to be connected, and you don’t need to be. The first level of connectivity is to just use our phones if you need to access your laptop or other devices you can set up a hot spot. For many this will be all they need, the phone has most of the connections you will need.
Satellite Messengers
Moved Satellite Messengers to their own thread Satellite Messengers
Of course that brings us to our next problem, connectivity. The above things work if we are in cell range. But what if we are not in cell range, and we still feel the need to be connected, or our loved ones would like us to be connected.
Satellite messengers could be a viable option. The original purpose of the messenger was to allow you SOS messaging when you are out of normal connectivity range. They have slowly developed more features, so now you can perform two-way messaging with loved ones, share location and even share voice messages and pictures. These devices will need a network subscription plan. Garmin seems to be at the top of the heat with strong lineup. ACR Bivy Stick is a lower cost option. Zoleo and Spot also have some comparable features.
As of September 2024, all iPhones with satellite hardware (iPhone 14 and newer) and updated software allow for basic texting through satellite connection. This is basically free for two years after you activate. To date most reviews, I have seen would not recommend replacing your existing messenger, but it would be better than not having one. T-Mobile is starting to Beta test Starlink Direct to Cell technology. While it may be to early now, that could be promising.
Boosters
The next step in connectivity has been to try and enhance or boost your existing cellular signal. This can be with Cellular Boosters with a popular one being Weboost Drive Reach RV II
The external antenna should be better capable of receiving signals than your individual devices inside the van. There is an amplifier that receives signals and retransmits them. Most boosters then have another antenna that broadcasts the signal inside the vehicle.
This is done in both directions and boosting the outgoing signal works much better than the received signal. Upload speeds have a better chance of being increased than download speed. One of the big issues for boosters is a feedback problem between the two antennas.
The far bigger issue is the existing technology is not new and that can be part of the problem for boosters. Cell Phone technology has changed very quickly and, in some ways, has left the booster behind.
One of those issues is the frequencies that the boosters support. The approved frequencies that booster can work on have not changed, but providers are using more bands that your booster will not help. Iin many ways what provider you are using could have a substantial impact on booster success.
MIMO
The new technology change is primarily responsible for the increased performance of LTE and 5Gis called MIMO or Multi-In Multi-Out. Modern devices have at least two antennas built in. Each antenna can pick up a different signal which can increase speeds and stability,
Boosters operate on one antenna, so while it may appear that you have a stronger signal. It could be very possible that data speeds decrease. It is imperative to check speeds when making a comparison for boosters, or any other solution for that matter.
Mobile Routers and Modems
The next big step is to use a cellular mode, which will allow you to connect to a proper MIMO antenna on the outside of the van. As with the booster it is important to have a good outside antenna. Many modems are contained in a router, which will supply WIFI and/or Ethernet connectivity. Your cell phone, laptop, or tablet can now connect to your cellular network via the WIFI connection.
Going with a modem/router gives you a lot of options and upward growth. They will need their own sim card, newer technology supports eSim. The downside is that you will need a data plan for your system. This of course is an extra cost, but there are a variety of plans from both your traditional Mobile Network Operators (AT&T, Verizon or T-Mobile) or a variety of Mobile Virtual Network Operators. Usually, MVNOs won’t tell you who they are renting from, but it can be relatively easy to find out. Much as with a booster option, one would need to make sure their Router/Modem supports their Network Operators cellular bands. Some older modems don’t support the n71 band, again a primary T-Mobile band.
Many modems can support multiple SIMs or eSIMs giving one the ability to switch from one carrier to another if service is not working for one. Of course, the downside is you need two data plans.
Another key term of features to look for is WAN connectivity. This will allow you to connect your system to another Wide Area Network. This is more important if one is looking to use Starlink as a data provider option. You may also want to see if they support WIFI as WAN. This will allow you to connect to a WAN source over a WIFI connection. This would allow you to connect to a public WIFI connection, or your home network.
Another important feature is the support of Starlink, and by that, I mean not just that there is a WAN port to connect. Can you easily switch from your cellular connection to Starlink as needed?
One of the big players in the mobile/router is the Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G Mobile Router (X62) is one of top performing units for RV uses.
The Qualcomm next generation X62 cellular modems, which support 3GPP Release 16 specification of 5G, commonly referred to as "5G Phase 2" supporting the latest cellular technologies. The new MAX BR1 Pro brings all the options to provide great connectivity now and in the future.
Another important feature is the support of Starlink, beyond WAN port to connectivity. While it is possible to connect to some routers, the process can be manual. Others can seamlessly move from one connection to the other. On my router my priority is WIFI WAN, this connects to my home WIFI, while parked in my driveway. No reason to use data from other plans. The second source is my cellular connection, and if that fails it will move over to Starlink. Peplink also support Bonding, where you can use combine connections with their proprietary speed fusion software.
As with Boosters, the Router/Modem solution performance comes by better antennas and moving the outside of the vehicle, the antenna is part of the solution. We can match the MAX BR1 Pro with a Parsec Husky Pro 7-in-1 Antenna.
This will give us four cellular antennas and two WIFI and an external GPS antenna. The Peplink Mobility 42G Antenna would also be a good match.
I went with a small family-run company that focuses on internet connectivity for RV’s called Insty Connect. One of their primary selling points is that they move the Modem outside in the antenna, this reduces signal loss due to cable length. The first setup I went with was their Gen1 setup and the modem had the x55 chipset.
As you can see the big selling point is the short antenna cables, reducing loss due to cable length. This system worked great, and I was happy with it. Then I started to read about the X62 chipset, and the Starlink Mini. I then found they had developed their Gen2 system that ran on the x62 chipset, and their new router was also set up to play very well with Starlink. You can see more details about my installation at Internet Access Update - It includes Starlink
It must be a pretty good idea as Peplink now has the Antenna Max Encloser that allows you to connect their BR1 Pro 5G outside and close to antennas. While both companies sometimes refer to it as gain in performance, in reality it reduces loss due to cable length.
Certainly, it would be a lower profile than my Insty-connect squared.
I remiss if I did not point out that both the Parsec Husky Pro 7-in-1 Antenna and Peplink Mobility 42Gboth can be ordered with 1-foot cables. I could have easily made that setup work for me.
Binocular Antennas
The place where Insty-connect comes through is that you can move the modem over to binocular type antenna. These are of course for longer term setup, but the height and control of the direction can really bring in a signal.
The size makes this solution impractical for van use. Insty has come out with a slightly more compact version they call their “SwitchBlade”. It can fold down for travel mode but would still be a bit cumbersome for travel in smaller RVs.
Starlink
The latest technology for RV use would have to be Starlink. While people have and still do install Gen2 and Gen3 panels, the latest Starlink mini seems to offer the best compromise between performance and power. You can purchase the $50.00 - 50GB per month plan for the casual traveler. This plan allows you to pause the plan for months you do not plan to use. The $165.00 unlimited data plan may be a better fit if you are full-time or work from the van.
For installation of the mini, at a minimum you need power. The Mini input power range is between 12 and 48 volts. It will run on 12-volts, but any length of cable results in a voltage drop that can make the unit unusable. The supplied power cable is marginal, and I used this Starlink Mini Cable 5M, 16AWG DC to DC Power Cable for Starlink Mini Barrel hardwired on one end. I paired it with a 12V to 24V volt 5A converter to power the MINI.
They also make Starlink Mini USB C to DC power cables. These are compatible with a 65W (20v @ 3A + tolerance) or 100W (20v @ 5A) USB C outlet.
There are even adapters to run the mini off various power tool batteries.
The Mini has a built in WIFI router, so that really is the only connection you need. It does however come with an Ethernet port allowing the hardwiring of the Mini into the WAN input of an existing Router. This is where the importance of the router having WAN ports come in. You can connect to your router via WIFI or WAN over WIFI. There is test data that shows a performance hit over direct wire. The other benefit of direct wire is that you can turn off the WIFI router and save a little power. The Starlink allows bypass mode when attaching directly to a router.
After that you need to decide if you want to hard mount the mini or you are going to deploy it when you set up camp. One of benefits of the roam plan is that it supports data on go, so you can use it while driving. Most of the hard mounts end up being flat and not optimal for reception, but everything is a compromise. I used a Starlink Mini - Roof Mount Kit from Striker Fabrication. This model is attached to my 80/20 roof rack.
They of course make other mounts that attach to the roof with magnets that could be more portable.
There are reports of people putting their Mini’s in the front dash window and getting reception. This was on a Transit and God knows they have huge windshields. I do carry extension cables for both power and Ethernet cables, and if needed I can remove my Mini from its roof mount. Hard mounting works for 90% my camping style, yours of course may vary.
Ease of use.
All these solutions can be deployed on their own and can work very well. I made a conscience decision to make ease of use a priority, which is one of the reasons I went with a router/cellular modem path. I have three modes of connectivity that my router takes care of.
In the above picture you can see my modem dashboard, this shows my home WIFI as the primary connection, followed up by AT&T connection and the finally Starlink. As I pull away from my driveway and lose the WIFI connection it will transition to AT&T. If we lose cell connection it will then transition to Starlink. Or of course I can just move the priorities around manually if I like.
Both Insty-Connect and Peplink have apps to help you access control easier.
The two companies here are the ones that I investigated and eventually the one I chose. It really could have been a tossup. This path has worked for me, although I have yet to get real world data with Starlink, because the places I have camped since installing I had cell access. My only real recommendation is find out as much as you can and decide what your end goal is and make a path that gets you there.
Satellite Messengers
Moved Satellite Messengers to their own thread Satellite Messengers
Of course that brings us to our next problem, connectivity. The above things work if we are in cell range. But what if we are not in cell range, and we still feel the need to be connected, or our loved ones would like us to be connected.
Satellite messengers could be a viable option. The original purpose of the messenger was to allow you SOS messaging when you are out of normal connectivity range. They have slowly developed more features, so now you can perform two-way messaging with loved ones, share location and even share voice messages and pictures. These devices will need a network subscription plan. Garmin seems to be at the top of the heat with strong lineup. ACR Bivy Stick is a lower cost option. Zoleo and Spot also have some comparable features.
As of September 2024, all iPhones with satellite hardware (iPhone 14 and newer) and updated software allow for basic texting through satellite connection. This is basically free for two years after you activate. To date most reviews, I have seen would not recommend replacing your existing messenger, but it would be better than not having one. T-Mobile is starting to Beta test Starlink Direct to Cell technology. While it may be to early now, that could be promising.
Boosters
The next step in connectivity has been to try and enhance or boost your existing cellular signal. This can be with Cellular Boosters with a popular one being Weboost Drive Reach RV II
The external antenna should be better capable of receiving signals than your individual devices inside the van. There is an amplifier that receives signals and retransmits them. Most boosters then have another antenna that broadcasts the signal inside the vehicle.
This is done in both directions and boosting the outgoing signal works much better than the received signal. Upload speeds have a better chance of being increased than download speed. One of the big issues for boosters is a feedback problem between the two antennas.
The far bigger issue is the existing technology is not new and that can be part of the problem for boosters. Cell Phone technology has changed very quickly and, in some ways, has left the booster behind.
One of those issues is the frequencies that the boosters support. The approved frequencies that booster can work on have not changed, but providers are using more bands that your booster will not help. Iin many ways what provider you are using could have a substantial impact on booster success.
- Verizon, boosters cover most of the important bands for Verizon .
- AT&T, boosters cover most of the important bands for AT&T the exception being band 14, that is primarily used in rural areas, or areas where boosters generally work best.
- T-Mobile has a few core bands that are not supported by boosters. Band 71 primarily used for their long range for both LTE and 5G. This is again most important in rural areas where boosters work best. Band 41is used especially on 5G.
MIMO
The new technology change is primarily responsible for the increased performance of LTE and 5Gis called MIMO or Multi-In Multi-Out. Modern devices have at least two antennas built in. Each antenna can pick up a different signal which can increase speeds and stability,
Boosters operate on one antenna, so while it may appear that you have a stronger signal. It could be very possible that data speeds decrease. It is imperative to check speeds when making a comparison for boosters, or any other solution for that matter.
Mobile Routers and Modems
The next big step is to use a cellular mode, which will allow you to connect to a proper MIMO antenna on the outside of the van. As with the booster it is important to have a good outside antenna. Many modems are contained in a router, which will supply WIFI and/or Ethernet connectivity. Your cell phone, laptop, or tablet can now connect to your cellular network via the WIFI connection.
Going with a modem/router gives you a lot of options and upward growth. They will need their own sim card, newer technology supports eSim. The downside is that you will need a data plan for your system. This of course is an extra cost, but there are a variety of plans from both your traditional Mobile Network Operators (AT&T, Verizon or T-Mobile) or a variety of Mobile Virtual Network Operators. Usually, MVNOs won’t tell you who they are renting from, but it can be relatively easy to find out. Much as with a booster option, one would need to make sure their Router/Modem supports their Network Operators cellular bands. Some older modems don’t support the n71 band, again a primary T-Mobile band.
Many modems can support multiple SIMs or eSIMs giving one the ability to switch from one carrier to another if service is not working for one. Of course, the downside is you need two data plans.
Another key term of features to look for is WAN connectivity. This will allow you to connect your system to another Wide Area Network. This is more important if one is looking to use Starlink as a data provider option. You may also want to see if they support WIFI as WAN. This will allow you to connect to a WAN source over a WIFI connection. This would allow you to connect to a public WIFI connection, or your home network.
Another important feature is the support of Starlink, and by that, I mean not just that there is a WAN port to connect. Can you easily switch from your cellular connection to Starlink as needed?
One of the big players in the mobile/router is the Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G Mobile Router (X62) is one of top performing units for RV uses.
The Qualcomm next generation X62 cellular modems, which support 3GPP Release 16 specification of 5G, commonly referred to as "5G Phase 2" supporting the latest cellular technologies. The new MAX BR1 Pro brings all the options to provide great connectivity now and in the future.
Another important feature is the support of Starlink, beyond WAN port to connectivity. While it is possible to connect to some routers, the process can be manual. Others can seamlessly move from one connection to the other. On my router my priority is WIFI WAN, this connects to my home WIFI, while parked in my driveway. No reason to use data from other plans. The second source is my cellular connection, and if that fails it will move over to Starlink. Peplink also support Bonding, where you can use combine connections with their proprietary speed fusion software.
As with Boosters, the Router/Modem solution performance comes by better antennas and moving the outside of the vehicle, the antenna is part of the solution. We can match the MAX BR1 Pro with a Parsec Husky Pro 7-in-1 Antenna.
This will give us four cellular antennas and two WIFI and an external GPS antenna. The Peplink Mobility 42G Antenna would also be a good match.
I went with a small family-run company that focuses on internet connectivity for RV’s called Insty Connect. One of their primary selling points is that they move the Modem outside in the antenna, this reduces signal loss due to cable length. The first setup I went with was their Gen1 setup and the modem had the x55 chipset.
As you can see the big selling point is the short antenna cables, reducing loss due to cable length. This system worked great, and I was happy with it. Then I started to read about the X62 chipset, and the Starlink Mini. I then found they had developed their Gen2 system that ran on the x62 chipset, and their new router was also set up to play very well with Starlink. You can see more details about my installation at Internet Access Update - It includes Starlink
It must be a pretty good idea as Peplink now has the Antenna Max Encloser that allows you to connect their BR1 Pro 5G outside and close to antennas. While both companies sometimes refer to it as gain in performance, in reality it reduces loss due to cable length.
Certainly, it would be a lower profile than my Insty-connect squared.
I remiss if I did not point out that both the Parsec Husky Pro 7-in-1 Antenna and Peplink Mobility 42Gboth can be ordered with 1-foot cables. I could have easily made that setup work for me.
Binocular Antennas
The place where Insty-connect comes through is that you can move the modem over to binocular type antenna. These are of course for longer term setup, but the height and control of the direction can really bring in a signal.
The size makes this solution impractical for van use. Insty has come out with a slightly more compact version they call their “SwitchBlade”. It can fold down for travel mode but would still be a bit cumbersome for travel in smaller RVs.
Starlink
The latest technology for RV use would have to be Starlink. While people have and still do install Gen2 and Gen3 panels, the latest Starlink mini seems to offer the best compromise between performance and power. You can purchase the $50.00 - 50GB per month plan for the casual traveler. This plan allows you to pause the plan for months you do not plan to use. The $165.00 unlimited data plan may be a better fit if you are full-time or work from the van.
For installation of the mini, at a minimum you need power. The Mini input power range is between 12 and 48 volts. It will run on 12-volts, but any length of cable results in a voltage drop that can make the unit unusable. The supplied power cable is marginal, and I used this Starlink Mini Cable 5M, 16AWG DC to DC Power Cable for Starlink Mini Barrel hardwired on one end. I paired it with a 12V to 24V volt 5A converter to power the MINI.
They also make Starlink Mini USB C to DC power cables. These are compatible with a 65W (20v @ 3A + tolerance) or 100W (20v @ 5A) USB C outlet.
There are even adapters to run the mini off various power tool batteries.
The Mini has a built in WIFI router, so that really is the only connection you need. It does however come with an Ethernet port allowing the hardwiring of the Mini into the WAN input of an existing Router. This is where the importance of the router having WAN ports come in. You can connect to your router via WIFI or WAN over WIFI. There is test data that shows a performance hit over direct wire. The other benefit of direct wire is that you can turn off the WIFI router and save a little power. The Starlink allows bypass mode when attaching directly to a router.
After that you need to decide if you want to hard mount the mini or you are going to deploy it when you set up camp. One of benefits of the roam plan is that it supports data on go, so you can use it while driving. Most of the hard mounts end up being flat and not optimal for reception, but everything is a compromise. I used a Starlink Mini - Roof Mount Kit from Striker Fabrication. This model is attached to my 80/20 roof rack.
They of course make other mounts that attach to the roof with magnets that could be more portable.
There are reports of people putting their Mini’s in the front dash window and getting reception. This was on a Transit and God knows they have huge windshields. I do carry extension cables for both power and Ethernet cables, and if needed I can remove my Mini from its roof mount. Hard mounting works for 90% my camping style, yours of course may vary.
Ease of use.
All these solutions can be deployed on their own and can work very well. I made a conscience decision to make ease of use a priority, which is one of the reasons I went with a router/cellular modem path. I have three modes of connectivity that my router takes care of.
- WIFI as WAN allows me to connect to my home WIFI network, or any free public WIFI spots.
- Cellular Connection allows me to connect to available cell towers when in coverage.
- Starlink Satellite coverage when needed.
In the above picture you can see my modem dashboard, this shows my home WIFI as the primary connection, followed up by AT&T connection and the finally Starlink. As I pull away from my driveway and lose the WIFI connection it will transition to AT&T. If we lose cell connection it will then transition to Starlink. Or of course I can just move the priorities around manually if I like.
Both Insty-Connect and Peplink have apps to help you access control easier.
The two companies here are the ones that I investigated and eventually the one I chose. It really could have been a tossup. This path has worked for me, although I have yet to get real world data with Starlink, because the places I have camped since installing I had cell access. My only real recommendation is find out as much as you can and decide what your end goal is and make a path that gets you there.
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