Tips for repairing drip rail? Seam sealer?

[glasspack]

I'd like to repair a few spots on the drip rail along the left and right edges of our 2014 E350 where the PO had clamped down some bike racks really hard. It could rust and so I'd like to patch it up so it doesn't become a problem. This van will eventually have a ph top so no need to clamp anything on the rails. But since this area is where water winds up I think good idea to address it.



A body shop guy thought the rubbery material in those channels at the edge of the roof was seam sealer. Is patching these spots with seam sealer and touch up paint the best way to go? I've never worked with it.

Thanks for any suggestions!
J

 

[LenS]

Personally I would get a tube of polyurethane caulk and blend in damage. Then add touch-up paint.

 

[JWA-SMB]

Honestly if any repairs made are temporary I'd use a good brand of exterior silicone sealer, NOT caulk of any sort. Silicone is cheap enough, easy to apply and works well for this sort of repair.

Since the area is on the roof appearance doesn't have to be a huge concern unless that's a personal preference. If you're intent on using a touch up paint find a 3M dealer near you (or online) and buy their flexible seam sealer, follow directions to pre-clean and apply it to your areas of concern.

What you're seeing is paint lifting away from the factory-applied seam sealer used along that roof flange---I'm almost 100% positive the metal underneath is still protected. At this point this isn't a huge issue body-wise.

 

[86Scotty]

I recommend and practice using something truly bomb proof.

Vulkem!

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_ ... rds=vulkem

And I definitely recommend addressing it. The rain gutter is about the worst rust magnet on Econoline bodies IMO. I've had several vans and this is where I always see rust first. Water just stays there.





:b5:

 

[djbonsu]

I recommend and practice using something truly bomb proof.

Vulkem!

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_ ... rds=vulkem

And I definitely recommend addressing it. The rain gutter is about the worst rust magnet on Econoline bodies IMO. I've had several vans and this is where I always see rust first. Water just stays there.





:b5:

Thanks for the link & Great Info!! I need to do this as well. Did you have to remove all go the old material/sealer pre-existing in the rain gutter before applying this stuff?

 

[carringb]

Mine are pretty gouged up from many years of various roof rack setups. It still isn't rusty. I really don't think you have anything to worry about.

 

[86Scotty]

Not at all. Pile the Vulkem on, anywhere! Warning, it's messy but dries in a day. It will always be a little rubbery, just like the OEM stuff.

 

[djbonsu]

Not at all. Pile the Vulkem on, anywhere! Warning, it's messy but dries in a day. It will always be a little rubbery, just like the OEM stuff.

Sweet! Thanks again!

 

[C190P]

I always use some type of rust inhibitor like Rustmort from SEM. It will have to be top coated with something.I have used it for years on old cars and seems to do its job. I used it around the windshield on my 97 in 06 and it has held up well and has been outside everyday since I got the chevy in 08.
Cheap insurance
Good Luck
Jim
http://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mo ... 68YH49HYQ3

 

[geoffff]

I fixed my gutters / drip rails. My seam sealer was cracked along most of the rail.

The rear rail had really deep cracks and some rust showing through. Chiseling out the existing seam sealer revealed more rust. In some parts I ended up with holes all the way through the sheet metal.

(I also took this opportunity to repair the roof wear-through caused by the rubbing penthouse top.)





I had my best luck removing the old seam sealer when using a hammer and flathead screwdriver to chisel it out. I also used a wire wheel, and my angle grinder flap wheel. I only did this with the rear gutter -- the others weren't rusty yet.



Any remaining rust I coated with Ospho, then primer and paint.

Rather than using seam sealer, I took 86Scotty's approach and filled them with Tremco Vulkem 116. It is very messy to work with, but I had acetone on hand to wipe up spills. I read about the trick of using a gloved finger coated with soapy water to smooth out the Vulkem -- worked great! -- but I had mixed feelings about using water in an application where I'm trying to avoid rust.

I refilled the rear gutter with Vulkem (replacing the removed seam sealer), and also used it to fill the cracks in the side gutters. To fill the rust-through holes, I just used Vulkem -- I didn't bother trying to weld in new metal.




I didn't bother sanding my angle-grinder marks in the roof smooth before painting. I don't care all that much about aesthetics. Also -- these areas will soon be hidden by Avery UHA tape -- so my penthouse top doesn't wear through the paint again.

 

[posplayr]

That looks like a surprisingly good result with the sealer. When I did my 97 e350 i used waterproof bondo long strand cat hair on the entire gutter. prior to removing all the factory seam sealer it appeared the only place that was leaking was in the rear. i was surprised to find rusted through holes above the passenger side doors.

Where you had holes how did you keep the 116 sealer from dropping through? Bondo is thick, and slthough i did some cardboard backing it didn’t take much to sand ; the polyester resins go off within minutes. Yes there is more sanding than the 116 sealer, but I was not sure how you deal with shaping the sealer that you did so well here.

The first time I did this I finished by painting the entire roof with a rubberized elastomeric paint. A raptor liner type product would be better because there is a milky run-off from the elastomeric that can stain your windshield.

I assume the 116 is paintable.

 

[doublevan2]

I agree with PO - that's a great looking repair !

 

[1der]

The Avery UHA tape is not the best solution to address bulb seal wear. Moisture gets under the tape out of sight and the rust through can be brutal.

Clear Bra tape is at least protective and clear so the beginning of rust is visible.

Best I have found is a color matched Raptor or LineX coating.

 

[geoffff]

Thanks for the warning on the Avery UHA tape. On my old 2004 van I removed the rust and added Avery UHA tape when the van was only 2 years old, and it seemed to last another 18 years without visible rust in the tape area -- though I never actually lifted the tape to check underneath.


This van was only 2 years old!

 

[geoffff]

prior to removing all the factory seam sealer it appeared the only place that was leaking was in the rear. i was surprised to find rusted through holes above the passenger side doors.

Well I didn't go digging into my side rails, so yeah there could be rust hidden there. Time will tell.

Where you had holes how did you keep the 116 sealer from dropping through? Bondo is thick, and slthough i did some cardboard backing it didn’t take much to sand ; the polyester resins go off within minutes. Yes there is more sanding than the 116 sealer, but I was not sure how you deal with shaping the sealer that you did so well here.

The Vulkem 116 is pretty firm -- not as firm as Bondo, but it pretty much stays in place where it's put.

I happened to have some nonstick plasticized paper lying around that came with some double-stick tape. I had the bright idea of using masking tape to hold it up against the underside of the gutter holes. I'm not sure it was worth the effort. After applying the Vulkem 116 (while it was still wet) I removed my tape and used soapy fingers to press any 116 oozing out the holes back up in there nice and smooth - and it didn't droop back down after that. I didn't want to risk having any paper permanently bonded to the 116.

I assume the 116 is paintable.

Yes, I read: after a week of drying.

It's also UV-stable.