U-Joint 4x4 Conversion Suggestions

[aarcaris]

Well, I am getting close to placing my order for a Ujoint 4x4 DIY conversion Kit for my home built van Vandit I figured I would post on here and see if anyone had any suggestions or opinions about the components I am planning on. I did the same thing when doing my electrical system and it was super helpful, so figured I would do the same now that I am getting closer with the 4x4 stuff. Not looking to start any debates about different 4x4 conversions, just seeing if anyone has any opinions about anything I should plan on doing in addition to this to make things easier or better.

Here's the Plan As of Right now:​

4x4 Kit: U-Joint 6” lift kit

Front End:

Front Axle: Dana 60 Stage 2 w/ Hub Conversion and Brake Upgrade
Front locker: Eaton E-locker
Front Gears: 4:88 (Just in case we decide to go with 37’s)
Front Shocks: Fox Reservoir Shocks​

Rear End:

Rear Axle: Stock Semi Float Axle with wheel spacers
Rear Locker: OX locker Cable Driven
Rear Gears: 4:88 (Just in case we decide to go with 37’s)
Rear Shocks: Fox Reservoir Shocks​

Transfer Case: NV271 w/ 2 Pc Shifter Upgrade​

Wheels and Tires:

Wheels: Method 701 Matte Black
Tires: Nitto Ridge Grappler 35/12.5r17 or Nitto Ridge Grappler 37/12.5r17​

Additional items that will be needed to finish the conversion:

Transmission: Rebuild or get complete remanufactured 4R75 to be 4x4
Exhaust: Rework exhaust to accommodate for transfer case
Driveshafts: Custom Driveshafts Leaning toward Tom Woods
Tuner: 5 Star Tuner​

Added parts that we are going to do at the same time:

Fender Flares: Bushwacker Fender Flares
Dash Switches: U-Joint sPOD electrical System E Series 09/up​

The next phase of the build will be bumpers.

If you have any suggestions or other things that I should do that I might be missing let me know!

 

[Twoxentrix]

aarcaris I've followed your amazing build this far, so definitely look forward to see the rest come together...Probably several items you've already considered, but I'll mention anyway to help you spend more $$$'s;
***Will you need wheel spacers for the rear diff? Can't recall, but I believe mine are 1.5" thick which line-up the rear wheels with the front.
***Have you already addressed an Air compressor, and if not, this may be something you might add.
***Sumo's to replace the rigid axle bump stops?
***Doesn't cost much, and perfect time to include ARB Differential Breather kits (mounted high)
***Rear sway bar with quick disconnects?
***Rear air bags to help compensate for added weight as well as stiffen the rear on slalom type roads
***Hydroboost brake upgrade?
***Upgraded Trans cooler

 

[mgmetalworks]

As far as you've taken your build, IMO upgrading to a Sterling 10.5 in the back would be a good idea. Especially if you're thinking of 37s.

 

[aarcaris]

Twoxentrix:
Thanks for the compliments and the suggestions for how to spend more $$$!!

-I will be getting the wheels spacers for the rear with U-Joints kit. This will also correct the 8x6.5 to 8x170 to match the front.

- I haven't addressed the air compressor issue yet, but do plan on doing an OBA setup, but just haven't decided how I want to do it yet. I have looked at the U-Joint Kit which seems like a pretty easy setup and would work well. I'm going to plan around with some different ideas for that one.

-I was looking at different bump stop options and sumo springs were on the list. Do you have any personal experience with these?

-Breather kit is a good idea! I'll be adding that to my list.

- I haven't considered a rear swaybar yet. I am going to weigh the van and then have the springs built to spec, so I think I am going to first see how it handles without them and see if it's something I will need or not.

-I have gone back and forth a lot on doing an airbag setup. The one that Ujopint has seems like a nice setup since it has a floating design so it allows the suspension to still droop without strain on the bag. I guess my hold up with them is will they be worth the extra money. My load isn't varying much, and I don't ever plan on towing with the van will they really make much difference with custom spec'd leaf packs?

-Haven't looked at all at a hydroboost upgrade, so I'll add that to my need to research more list.

-Upgraded trans cooler is probably a good idea too. I'll have to look into that as well.

mgmetalworks
I had asked Chris about this, and he said that the Sterling 10.5 won't work on my van because it has RSC on it. Is there some kind of workaround to get the Sterling 10.5 to work nicely with the RSC system?

 

[mgmetalworks]

I had asked Chris about this, and he said that the Sterling 10.5 won't work on my van because it has RSC on it. Is there some kind of workaround to get the Sterling 10.5 to work nicely with the RSC system?

Yes, there is a way to do it... use a later model axle with individual wheel sensors. A lot of them already have an E-locker too. If you pm me your email, I can forward some info about Sterling axles/years/part numbers.

I've had many customers with RSC vans convert to Sterling axles... So have a lot of Quadvan customers. It's not a difficult conversion at all. I have a 2014 RSC Van (Quadvan conversion) in my shop right now in here for some custom work the has a late model Sterling in it if you're ever over in the valley and want to take a look.

 

[bigriver-SMB]

Really think you ought to seriously consider a full float rear end. Between the weight of these big rigs and the big tires that's a lot of stress on that semi float. I battled rear end issues for years before finally up grading to a D60 FF and have had no issues since... just my experience.

That's going to be an awesome setup when it's all complete.

 

[aarcaris]

Yes, there is a way to do it... use a later model axle with individual wheel sensors. A lot of them already have an E-locker too. If you pm me your email, I can forward some info about Sterling axles/years/part numbers.

I've had many customers with RSC vans convert to Sterling axles... So have a lot of Quadvan customers. It's not a difficult conversion at all. I have a 2014 RSC Van (Quadvan conversion) in my shop right now in here for some custom work the has a late model Sterling in it if you're ever over in the valley and want to take a look.

Well, that is a promising option then! I haven't been west of the Cascades in a while, but next time I am in the valley I'll have to reach out and swing by if you still have it in the shop.

PM has been sent!

 

[Twoxentrix]

Twoxentrix:

- I haven't addressed the air compressor issue yet, but do plan on doing an OBA setup, but just haven't decided how I want to do it yet. I have looked at the U-Joint Kit which seems like a pretty easy setup and would work well. I'm going to plan around with some different ideas for that one.

-I was looking at different bump stop options and sumo springs were on the list. Do you have any personal experience with these?

- I haven't considered a rear swaybar yet. I am going to weigh the van and then have the springs built to spec, so I think I am going to first see how it handles without them and see if it's something I will need or not.

-I have gone back and forth a lot on doing an airbag setup. The one that Ujopint has seems like a nice setup since it has a floating design so it allows the suspension to still droop without strain on the bag.

Trans cooler is probably a good idea too. I'll have to look into that as well.

Sent you a PM,
I don't tow either, but I often use my rear Air bags while driving slalom roads to minimize roll & increase stability - Obviously more beneficial if you have the toggles and gauge inside the cab so you can adjust at any time. They can also help level the van.
Suggest a reliable air compressor with holding tank (100 duty cycle) -Can use it for the Air bags also if you go that route. Also sent you some info on the UpDownAir system that might interest you
https://autoplicity.com/12730499-up...bHE5lEPBoMPjxTF1ImtTVCGd9K__O1H0aAuhxEALw_wcB
With caps to protect the quick connects at each wheel:
https://www.rockyour4x4.com/?product=sherman-cap

Currently having a rear sway bar with fabricated quick disconnects installed, along with the Sumo's - so I can let you know in a week or two how that ends up (but I have a dana 80 rear so the shop is having to make some alterations - not sure how much of this could apply to your situation).

Unreng inspired me to do some of these changes (rear sway bar, Trans cooler) - may look at some of his Improvements...he relocated his trans cooler (with temp activated fan) in a unique way (for us at least)...The guys working on my Van are pretty good at this stuff and validated the approach he took, so I may end out doing something similar.

 

[aarcaris]

bigriver:
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll have to put a little more effort into what it would take to find a good Full Float.


Twoxentrix:
Thanks for the POM and the links! You for sure gave me some more things to look into.

 

[loper]

I agree with the folks suggesting a full floating rear axle. Since you need spacers to match the front track width, you might look at just going to a 10.5 Sterling from the F350.

That's what I used, gave me bigger brakes, more locker availability, matches the front track width, and stout as ****.

 

[Nick-SMB]

I would think over the 4:88 & 37, I have the U-joint 6" 4.56 on TOYOS 35 she drives 65 MPH @ ~ 2.4 RPM. Wouldn't want a higher center of gravity, I do have a rooftop, rack and solar. 35 also touches the leaf's a bit on tight turns, 37's may need wheel spacers.

Driven across powdery sand-dunes a few times and didn't need my rear OX, 4WD and 28PSI seems to handle it all. Front locker may be an overkill.

Looking at my invoice, I notice the following additions.
U-Joint puts a really nice Diff vents PN 25892279
You'll need the OX 125" cable
He also replaced my fuel sending unit PN E5TZ-9J306-BA

 

[MSD-SMB]

If your going to go 37’s BFG KOs are the only thing Justin @ Ujoint Colorado will recommend & you’ll have to run a 1” spacer to no rub the leaf springs in the front. I rub mine with 35 Toyo RTs. But I plan on going to 37s as soon as I wear out the 35’s.

I need to follow your build thread. What engine are you running? If diesel you might not need to re gear. I know they say you should but we put 37s on Vinnie & he was fine so im not planning a regular.

Personally you know how you’ll use your rig so you know what’s best. Next week Justin is putting in my ox lock & moving my Eaton in the front. I know I’ll need it here in colorado on some stuff as I’ve need it in my Jeep & the van is much bigger and heavier.

Good luck with the build ��

 

[aarcaris]

loper: Thanks for the input. After doing some more research over the weekend and with some help from mgmetalwokrs I am strongly considering doing a Late model Sterling 10.5". I would be happy to have a bulletproof rear end that didn't require spacers.


Nick: Yeah I totally get that and agree that I would prefer to keep it lower. I had originally never wanted to go about 35's but since the lift is 6" I feel like the 37's fill the wheel well a bit more and give it a better look. It probably won't be worth it just for looks especially since the leaf springs will settle some and help out with the tire to fender gap. I am sure the OX locker and front E-locker are probably overkill but from past experience with lockers, it's better to have them and not need them to need them and not have them! Also thanks for the added notes from your order at U-Joint.


MSD: Thanks for the tips about the tires! I'll most likely go 35's and see if in the future I want to upgrade to 37's after having it converted for a while. The van has a 5.4L so I'll for sure want to regear. I just looked at your build thread you recently started and I'll for sure be watching it all come together. I'll be watching to see your van get up on 37's.

 

[Lilnuts2]

I thought you had to have a 8" lift to run full size 37"s
I know Derek (CCV) has a 8" lift. Chris at U joint says 8" also. Would be awesome to be able to run 37"s with a 6" lift.

 

[MSD-SMB]

I thought you had to have a 8" lift to run full size 37"s
I know Derek (CCV) has a 8" lift. Chris at U joint says 8" also. Would be awesome to be able to run 37"s with a 6" lift.

Well with everything with vans that can be debated. Justin at Ujoint Colorado runs 37s on his 6” lift. But only recommends running BFG KOs.

I plan on doing the same when I wear out my Toyos moving up to 37s & not changing my lift or going up to 8”. An 8” lift is a bit much & doesn’t really make the van any more capable over an 6” lift.

If doing a CCV 4x4 is in the works I wouldn’t recommend an 8” lift especially if your planning on doing a buildout inside. Weight goes up fast & drivability will go down on the hwy. This goes for any 8” lift.

Which leads me to coil vs leaf spring. I know off topic… My other van is lifted about as high as Derek’s Van (1/2 lower) so basic the same lift & weight is sitting at 10,000 lbs. I tend to have to replace the front coils every 2 years in order to keep great (not good) hwy drivability. Justin at Ujoint drove my coil lifted van the other day & said it was the nicest coil van he’s ever driven.

After having both coil & leaf sprung 4x4 vans & i have driven every upfitters vans on the market. When I was at CCV I had the ability to take vans out for shake down drives (usually a30 to 35 mile drive) after build outs or pop tops. My preference is a Ujoint van over all others. Top 3 are Ujoint, timberline, CCV. You mileage my vary…

 

[aarcaris]

I thought you had to have a 8" lift to run full size 37"s
I know Derek (CCV) has a 8" lift. Chris at U joint says 8" also. Would be awesome to be able to run 37"s with a 6" lift.

It seems with some modifications you can get a 37's to fit on a Ujoint 6" lift. Like MSD said Justin at Colorado U-Joint runs 37's and the main U-Joint in North Carolina has also done a few on 37's on a 6" lift. The biggest modification seems to be the backside of the front wheel wells. Here is a video of one of them.

 

[motovan_mn]

Not sure if it's been said yet, but the reason Justin recommends 37" ko2's is because they run on the small side.

 

[aarcaris]

motovan_mn: Thanks for adding that into the thread. I did know that but forgot to mention it.

From a quick search, it looks like
37x12.5r17 KO2's are supposed to be 36.5x12.5.
and for comparison,
37x12.5r17 Ridge Grappler's are supposed to be 36.77"x 12.52".
Granted real-world numbers are probably different.

 

[motovan_mn]

motovan_mn: Thanks for adding that into the thread. I did know that but forgot to mention it.

From a quick search, it looks like
37x12.5r17 KO2's are supposed to be 36.5x12.5.
and for comparison,
37x12.5r17 Ridge Grappler's are supposed to be 36.77"x 12.52".
Granted real-world numbers are probably different.

I think he said they sit closer to 36" even, but don't remember for sure.

 

[aarcaris]

I think you're right. I want to say it was closer to 36.2 or smaller. Those other numbers were just pulled from tiresize.com