When is 5r110 end of life?

[CaptainBuilt]

I like that setup.

 

[JWA-SMB]

I added both the Wix and Magnefine in front of the radiator. I think they are free-flowing enough to put in series.

That set-up poses a question I'd want to have Mark Kovolsky's opinion about before saying yes to no whether that's a good idea. Naturally depending on the pressure drop each filter adds would be of concern---to me anyway.

As long as your external filters are somewhere in the send or return line they'll be doing their job. I mounted mine in the return like along the engine block just slightly behind the motor cross member. Its up and away from road debris.

To each their own though.........

When I swapped the fluid it was pretty black although not burnt. I got nervous after reading about horror stories about failed transmissions after a complete flush. The only problem I ran into (after the flush) was backing up the transmission would lock up and stall the V-10 I put in the Lucus and the problem was immediately gone.

Mark K--my transmission guru or go-to guy has many time debunked that issue of the full fluid exchange causing problems when done correctly. I did the flush on an 4R70W with 275K miles without a single issue or problem since.

 

[posplayr]

That set-up poses a question I'd want to have Mark Kovolsky's opinion about before saying yes to no whether that's a good idea. Naturally depending on the pressure drop each filter adds would be of concern---to me anyway.

JWA:

Yes, the first thing that comes to mind is whether or not adding these filters will add too much restriction, however, to be clear both lines are downstream of the OE external trans cooler.

I think all of these Econolines have hose clamps/barbs for the connections to the OE cooler (external and radiator) and so there will only be less pressure downstream from these low pressure connections.

I did the mod to both a 2002 E-250 5.4L with 4R70W and the 2000 E-350 V-10 XLT with 4R100. I just checked the E-250 and it is bone dry and I recently blasted from Tuscon to San Diego (8 hours each way) at 75-85 mph because it doesn't have cruise control. So no problems there.

The 2000 E-350 with 4R100 is a different story as I have been working on it and have it on jacks at the moment for an all-around brake "makeover". I discovered that the external cooler lines were loose and it had been leaking and the whole front was wet. I tightened them up and only occasionally drive it in the yard.

I just noticed that those hose clamps at the Magnafile filter are again wet and this is after a recheck and tightening. The Wix filter/ adapter is dry.
So this is a mystery at the moment.

I'm looking at adding better quality clamps and doubling them up or the possibility I have too much transmission fluid in the tranny after a flush and adding a quart of Lucus. Last I checked there are no codes (including transmission) on either vehicle.

Any ideas?

 

[posplayr]

I like that setup.

So while the picture of the filter setup if of the 2000 XLT with V10 and no bumper, I just checked on the 2002 E-250 with the same mod. The filters are behind the bumper and above the air dam that forces air up through the radiator. So there is little chance of anything coming up and damaging the filters.

If you do the mod pay attention to the location of the spin-on adapter so that you can remove that filter without having to remove the bumper. With the right bracket angle, you can just pull the two fasteners holding the air dam and then spin off the filter.

 

[posplayr]

JWA:

I'm looking at adding better quality clamps and doubling them up or the possibility I have too much transmission fluid in the tranny after a flush and adding a quart of Lucus. Last I checked there are no codes (including transmission) on either vehicle.

Any ideas?

I just got back from another inspection and see that the only connections that are leaking are on what is probably the original transmission lines. None of the new rubber lines are leaking. That should be a simple fix. :b5:

 

[JWA-SMB]

Clamp wise I'll use either good quality USA-made spring clamps or "pinch clamps". Both do require a barb or similar in order to be truly effective.

 

[posplayr]

Clamp wise I'll use either good quality USA-made spring clamps or "pinch clamps". Both do require a barb or similar in order to be truly effective.

Merry Christmas JW

Not sure who the authors are but they suggest that hose clamps are superior.
https://hosetips.com/crimp-clamps-vs-hose-clamps/

With all the plumbing I’m doing I would have to get up under the radiator with a cutter to remove the crimp clamps and those spring clamps I would only trust for vacuum.

On the DRZ400 I have been working on, people typically use zip ties rather than OE spring clamps for small-diameter fuel lines on gravity feed carburetors.

The hose clamps i’m using seem fine and i can crimp harder than i already am. The issue seems to be old hardened hose line. I will report back one i get thrm swapped out.