This isn't Sportmobile-specific, but rather, Ford E-series van with a 7.3 PSD specific deal. Stealerships want $1200 to do this. I've now done it. Its a huge PITA, but doable. In this economy, I figure someone out there might want to save the $1200. I didn't take pics of any of it. It was all I could do to manage the procedure. So, with that, let's begin.

1st: The problem (maybe): A P1211 fault code indicates fuel pressure above or below spec. On the 7.3, the fuel injectors are powered by a High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). It is the engine oil that provides the juice to the injectors. So, a P1211 fault suggests a problem with the high pressure oil system. Overly simplified, the system has three main components; The HPOP, the IPR Valve and the ICP sensor. The IPR valve and the ICP sensor are not cheap, but they are cheaper than the pump. In my case, I've been having fuel issues ever since a Ford shop in Fresno worked on my van on the way home from Baja. The shop replaced the vitron (whatever "O" rings on my high pressure oil lines (actually one line needed replacing)). From the moment we picked up the van, it threw a fault code. Van just didn't seem to be running right. Seemed to be putting out a little more black smoke than it should when pulling a grade. After getting home, weather was very cold and the van was acting like the fuel was gelled (serious black smoke, loss of power, P1211 code). I could sometime turn it off and right back on and it would be just fine. Other times, it might clear up in short order. Regardless, I parked it and waited for warmer temps to tackle the problem. I changed out the aftermarket (wix) fuel filter for a stock Motorcraft fuel filter setup and I thought it cured the problem. However, took the family to an OHV area and the van started puking black smoke for no reason in the middle of the trip (a quick shot down and restart, while rolling, cleared it up). So, at that point, just like I had been told, I pretty much knew it was the IPR valve. Figured I do the ICP sensor just in case because I woudl already be in there messing with things. Also figured I'd change the fuel pump (not oil pump) just 'cause (although it wouldn't throw a P1211 code). After changing the IPR and ICP, decided not to change the fuel pump right now (its an easy roadside repair, so I'm just going to carry the new fuel pump, along with the "X" tool in the van in case I ever need it). So there's the background. Let's get busy:

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2nd: Gather your parts. You'll need a new IPR valve and ICP sensor. I got mine new off Ebay. Wabash in Indiana (their web sales only) has great prices on Motorcraft parts, so that's a possibility (I've used them and they are great.). Here's an IPR valve:


The IPR is made up of four parts.(the main part, the electronic collar, the spacer and the stamped steel nut that holds all the parts together. Build a 1 1/8" special socket to remove the IPR (if you can find a deep 1 1/8 socket, then you're a step ahead of me...doubtful you've find one deep enough that will allow an extension to plug into it....you'll see). I had to take a regular socket and weld two nuts on it. Needed it long enough to house the entire IPR valve and the center has to be clear so as to not interfere with the IPR rod.

3rd; Get a helper to hold your flashlight if you can.

4th: Let the nightmare begin.

Pop the hood, and bungie it all the way open. Smart folks disconnect their batteries (I usually don't, but I'm careful). Pull your doghouse and get it out of the van (you need the room). Pull your intake, air box and hose all the way to the turbo. Your crankcase gas hose that attaches to your intake hose has a crimped clamp on it. Just twist a small flat head screwdriver in the hole in the crimp to open up the clamp. Replace with a normal hose clamp when you reinstall.

Now, unplug the ICP, the fuel heater, the sensor on the backside up high on the HPOP, and seperate the harness. If you can unplug the IPR valve, by all means, but not necessary at this time. With a flashlight, and the right angle, you might be able to see a bit of the IPR now from above. Its down low, in the valley. You can reach in, over the fuel filter housing, under the driver's bank high pressure oil line and get your fingers on the stamped, 3/4" nut (uses the 3/4" wrench, not that the hole is 3/4"). Great, you found it, but you can't do a damn thing.

From inside the van, lay on your belly between the seats. Look toward the front of the engine via the space below the turbo pedestal. You neck will thank you tomorrow.. If alone, your right arm needs to be in front on the pass seat, elbow on the floor, flashilight in hand pointing towards the IPR. Now, take a bunch of extensions and a 3/4 socket. Fish it up to the IPR and remove the nut.

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It takes a village to raise an idiot.

Con't
If the IPR nut falls into the valley, you can fish it out later with a claw (great tool for this project) or a magnet. Great the IPR nut is now off. Now sit up, take a sip of beer (I'm on a diet, so I had to skip this part) because you are well on your way. Now sit sidways with you left leg in front of the pass seat and you right draped over the seat. Reach in with your left arm and work it down to the IPR. If you can, pull the spacer. Again, you might drop it into the valley. Fish it out later. If the IPR is still plugged in, then grab the collar or the wires connected to the collar and fish the collar up up into the light of day. Then you can unplug it. Now you are left with the IPR valve body/rod still in place, but now you can get your 1 1/8" tool on it. Don't move. now put your modified 1 1/8 socket on the IPR. Now you can move. Now fish your appropriate socket (sized for the nut(s) you welded on the custom socket), on a swivel, and all those extensions up from under the turbo. Yup, you have to be laying on your belly again for this procedure. Hard to do with one hand as the other is holding the flashlight (helper would be helpful). So before you loosen and remove the IPR valve, be advised that all that oil in the HPOP and res will pour out. You could have sucked the oil out prior via the access screw on teh top of the HPOP res. The service manual suggests this. However, since my problem likely steemed from the service tech allowing a small foreign partical into the oil when he changed out the line/O rings, I wanted a good flushing of the HPOP. So, I pulled my IPR without having first sucked the oil out. Its not a ton of oil, but it will make a mess. I had my van on a slight incline to insure the oil would travle down the valley of the enigine and out the drainage ports, leaving the vehicle at the trans/TC dust shield drain hole.
Pull the IPR. Take the new IPR and put it in your extended tool and carefully install it. If you allow the tip of the IPR (the working end with the small ports) to touch grease, dirt, old oil, then you need to clean it.

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It takes a village to raise an idiot.

Con't
If you have to clean it, use something easy so as to not damage the seals and whatever else there is. Although thse come with oil on them, I dunked mine in some new oil (what I run in the van) just to be safe.

One the IPR valve/rod is installed, then I set off to clean the engine valley and fish out the old nut and spacer that got away from me. I used a light solvent and air to clean and dry everything up in short order. Now with a clean working envirnoment, connect the IPR collar and install it on the rod. While your hand is down there, its a good time to conenct the fuel heater as its close by. Next, install the spacer. Then, the nut. If lucky, you'll be able to fish the nut to the end of the rod and maniputate it so as it screws onto the rod. Finger deterity is key. I tried many times to set the nut in a socket and attack it via the extensions, but it was a no-go. Anyway, get the nut on and flick it until it is snug. Get back on your belly and tighten the nut with you 3/4" socket, swivel and all those extensions. If its loose, the collor will move around and the IPR will not work right. Tighen that nut up! The hardest part is now done!!

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It takes a village to raise an idiot.

Con't

Time to tackle the ICP sensor. Its right up top, but hard to get a tool on it. If its orig, then it likely has a machined area at the base for a 17mm wrench. That's nice, but good luck getting a wrench on it. From the seated position mentioned above, attack the ICP senosr from the passenger compartment. I used a Vise Grip on the larger metal body of the sensor to loosen it up. The new sensor has the machined portion above to make using a tool on it much easier. Get a deep socket that fits the sensor if you can. No luck for me, so I had to use a very large combo wrench. It took forever to install the sensor this way (I could get maybe 1/8th of a turn using the box end, then I'd have to flip it to get a slight turn with the open end, then flip for the box end, then flip.....forever!). Anyway, you'll get it in. Again, if you can find a deep enough socket for it, that's great. 1 1/16" is the size of the new version (or equivelent metric size).

Once installed, plug it back in along with any remaining sensors youv'e unpluged, along with the harness. Refill the HPOP res or not (not sure if it matters). At this point, I tested the system just to be sure. That first start will take a bit longer because of the lack of sufficient oil in the HPOP. Anyway, fired up fine and sounded normal, so shut it down. You may throw a fault code at this point as you haven't pluged your air instake sensor back in yet (at the air filter housing). At least its not the dreaded P1211 code. You can clear the code or wait for it to clear on its own once you've been driving it again. Finish buttoning it all up, check you oil level and top if need be and viola! You just saved a fortune, but you're probably mad that I talked you into it. My neck is killing me and everything below my elbows is beat to heck. However, power-wise, its like I've added a second turbo.

Now, this is what worked for me. If you've never changed the "O" rings in you high pressure oil lines, this would be the time to do it and it would make the whole process much easier (by removing the lines, access to the IPR would be greatly increased). The service manual suggests unbolting the HPOP to change the IPR, but that wasn't necessary for me. Its been suggested to pull the turbo to access the IPR, but that's definately not needed either.

Here's a link that shows how to change the lines on a pickup (we can't see what they can see). Helpful link though: http://howtofixthings.net/hpop.html

Here's a diagram of the fuel system:

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It takes a village to raise an idiot.

OK...I think I got it. Read the post several times, look at motor, read the post again and then tow the vehicle to Wade's house Wait...I got a 6.0 that valve will never fail

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2006 Ford 6.0PSD EB-50/E-PH SMB 4X4 Rock Crawler Trailer

Sportsmobile 4X4 Adventures..........On and off road adventures

No problem. I've got the flashlight holding thing dialed in pretty good now. Bill and Dave, the 6.0 is much easier to replace, I believe.

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It takes a village to raise an idiot.