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Old 12-30-2009, 07:42 PM   #11
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
I think you should call it "The Airlock."
I like that .
Since I did name the van after Hal from 2001 it makes perfect sense.

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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:21 PM   #12
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Re: Hal The Van

I've made a bit of a mistake with my previous postings. I keep sticking updates to my build on Hal the Van into other threads. I'm going to copy all the updates I've already posted elsewhere and put them here. Why? Because it's TOO DAMN COLD to work outside on the van today.

Painting the van:














The only equipment I had to buy was a paint sprayer and air valve at Lowe's. The small compressor I borrowed and I already had a good respirator and set of goggles. That was it for equipment.

The paint and clearcoat I got from NAPA:
Intermix MS Quart 56A Oxford White - $32.69
Reducer MS Quart CR232 - $13.49
Overall Clearcoat MS Quart FC720 - $23.49
Medium hardener MS 8-0z FH612 - $10.99
I used (2) of each.

Most of the rattle cans are sandable primer, 13 of them from Advanced Auto - $5.95 ea.
The acetone is for clean up and next time I'll buy it by the gallon.
Some 400 and 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a boatload of newspapers and wide masking tape.

I bought this van used and the inside was pretty scratched up so I ended up painting most of the interior. Once I got that and the rust taken care of I was running out of good weather. On the exterior I just did the drip edge and the bottom section that has the chip guard.


As you can see from the one picture I'm working into the night to get it done while the weather holds.
Lessons Learned: If you're painting outside, don't work into the night. You be picking the bugs out later. Another tip, A single edged razor blade is really good at getting overspray off your windshield.

If you're careful the results are surprising good. Not just my own opinion. When working on the street other people will be sure to give you their observations.
Lessons Learned: When working on the street with respirator and goggles expect plenty of strange looks from those passing by.

The paint sprayer I use is the "Kobalt Small Gravity Feed Spray Gun - $37.96" from Lowe's.
This type holds the paint in a small container on top of the gun. The main advantage is since it's a gravity feed there is less parts to clean vs the type where the paint is held underneath the gun. Disadvantage is that it doesn't hold a lot of paint but if you run out it's easy to refill.
I also bought a "Air Adjusting Valve - $14.96" that attaches between the gun and the air hose so you can adjust the pressure right at the gun (important).

I had the advantage of practicing on the inside parts of the van which will be covered over when the conversion is complete. It doesn't take that long to get the hang of the painting. Learning how to properly adjust the gun I found to be harder. A big piece of cardboard is handy/nessasary for dialing in the gun.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:24 PM   #13
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Re: Hal The Van

FYI - Upgrade to Limited Slip Differential
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

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Old 01-03-2010, 01:26 PM   #14
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Re: Hal The Van

Here's a little HowTo.
This applies to 2wd.
The install instructions say to park on level surface and measure the guards from the ground up. Unfortunately here in WV it's a bit hilly so I had to come up with my own instructions.

Pro-Fit Truck Splash Guards - Model #6
I had no prior experience with this brand but the web site listed them as fitting Ford vans and at only around $25 a pair I thought I'd chance it.
Pro-Fit company web page


Comes with two guards and 8 screws.


Park the van so that it's level inside.


Since the front wheel is so close to the mounted mud guard you have to turn the wheel as far as it will go and remove the hub cap to get enough room to work.

Rear wheels are OK as is.

Before you can put in the first screw you have to position the mud guard. There are three different adjustments that need to be done.
1. The guards have a lip that fits against the corner of the wheel well.


The plastic is stiff so you have to push in hard so it fits tight against the van.


Below the bottom edge of the lip is accordeon like folds. Don't confuse them with what I consider the bottom edge of the lip.


2. While holding the guard tight against the van slide it up and down until the bottom of the lip is even with the bottom of the rear quarter panel. You can feel when it's lined up. the reason you'll be relying on your sense of touch to line up the bottom is because at the same time you're trying to get the next adjustment right.


3. You''ll want the guard to be perpendicular to the body of the van. With the front wheel wells you'll just have to make a good guess since the tire is at an angle. With the rear guards you can use the tire as a guide. Parallel to the tire = perpendicular to the body.
Not parallel:


Parallel:


When the you have the guard tight against the van the ridged plastic of the lip will act like a spring and make the guard difficult to hold in one place. It keeps wanting to slip around so once you have all the adjustments just right mark it with a pencil line.


With the guard in position use a 1/8" drill bit to make a top hole through both the guard and the metal of the wheel well then use a 5/16" bit to enlarge the hole in just the plastic guard.


Screw in just the top screw but don't tighten it all the way.


With the top screw acting as a pivot point hold a small level against the guard's bottom edge. Rotate back and forth until level.
(The level's level but the camera isn't.)


Holding the guard level drill a second hole then set the second screw. This will hold the guard in place while you finish with the last two screws. With the rear tire you'll need a socket set with a phillips bit since it's such a tight fit. With the wheel in the way you'll have to drill the bottom holes at an angle but with care you can insert the screws and then tighten then down so the head is flat.


All done in the back.


And front.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:29 PM   #15
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Re: Hal The Van

First layer.
I'm using 4x6 Rubber mats for a sound deadening layer.
Special order from Lowe's. $45 each.


Lay it out on plywood for easier cutting.


Tape together old newspapers to be same size as mat.


Create a template.


Cut the first mat to size and lay in van. Move on to the second mat with a new template.


Next do the front mat. I wussed out on trying to do all the complicated cuts needed for the front wheel wells. I'll go back and do them as smaller pieces. This way only have to cut around the dog house. Didn't bother with template. Just measured and cut a rectangle (56" x 31", I think) then laid it down and trimmed.


Fourth mat goes between the back two and the front one. 6' x 28" wide. The gap between the mats is not perfectly parallel so a little trim to fit is needed.


Use double sided carpet tape to finish the rear wheel wells.
From remnants cut (2) 42"x10.5" pieces. One for each side to be wrapped over the top.



Almost all done with this layer.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:30 PM   #16
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Re: Hal The Van

Next layer.
1/2" Extruded foam boards


Post this under Lessons Learned.
If you try to cover the cockpit floor you won't be able to get the doghouse back in.
You need to cut back at least 6" from the opening edge for it to be able to slide into place. I knew it would be a tight fit just didn't know how tight.


Instead I started the insulation at the back edge of the seats.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

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Old 01-03-2010, 01:32 PM   #17
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Re: Hal The Van

Back in October I had Sportsmobile of Huntington Indiana install a Penthouse Top on the van.

Here's the shop.


The front door reminded me of something you might see in a movie about the St Valentines Day Massacre. Really old style.


Sportsmobile does full conversions. There were a couple other vans there being worked on.


Outside there are new vans (and tops) ready for conversion.


Here is my top upside down pre install:


The cost is $5195.
If you pay in cash there is no sales tax in Indiana.
At least that's what they told me and I wasn't going to argue with them. Sportsmobile also provided a hotel room and a rental car at no charge.
I'd never make it as a gangster. Carrying that much cash around made me REAL nervous.


I dropped the van off at 7:00am and they were done by noon. My install went faster than normal since the van is mostly empty.
What I saved in sales tax paid for a new window on the driver's side.


If you're killing time in Huntington be sure to stop by the Dan Quayle Center.


I had to stop on the way home and admire my new top at a rest stop in Ohio. My but it's awfully flat out there (wrote the West Virginia native).


I've since gone camping with with the new top a couple of times just to try it out. Expensive but worth every penny.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:37 PM   #18
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Re: Hal The Van

OK. All caught up with the old postings.
Here are two new postings:

Next floor layer, 1/2 inch plywood.
Use the already cut foam as a template. I'm cutting the plywood so that it's seam and the foam's is offset from each other.


I'm laying the plywood crosswise as opposed to lengthwise so there won't be a seam running the length of the van.


The downside to running the plywood this way is the metal edges that stick out. To get the plywood past them you have to trim off part of the end. Then just lay the trimmed piece in place.


One tip. The drivers side rear corner has a irregular shape. I found this method for creating a template handy. Cardboard strips. Place them one at a time against the wall and tape it down to the foam template (who's edge didn't match the wall to well when I first cut it).


With that template you'll be able to make a good cut.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:38 PM   #19
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Re: Hal The Van

Next up. Flex Tiles with a blue diamond pattern for the floor of the cockpit.
I saw these at Lowe's and really liked the look of them. They are an interlocking tile made for garage floors. Upside is they are tough. Downside - expensive. About $11 a 20"x20" square. Lowes had a 8 square minimum order. I ended up needing six.

First step was to figure out where to place the seams. Put three tiles together and test fit. A rubber mallet is handy for joining tiles.


Decided to start with a full square under the drivers seat and expand from there.


Hold that first square down with the seat and it will keep the others in line.


Then start fitting and cutting.


Best way to work with the tiles are to mark and score them. Then bend back along the score line and cut again. This is looking at the underside.


It will look different once all the plastic molding pieces are reinstalled.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:33 PM   #20
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Re: Hal The Van

Work done before Winter.
Rear bumper upgrade and Front bumper repair.

My van originally came with a regular rear bumper. I wanted to upgrade to a step bumper. Had to check around but finally found one for $100 at a junkyard within a reasonable driving distance.


Obviously a junkyard near Pittsburgh.


Before painting you need to remove the two plastic step covers. There are a plastic clips that slip through the bumper. You need to squeeze both sides of the clips to get them to slide back up through the bumper.


Grind off all of the old rust and bumper sticker. The little rectangular holes show where the clips went through.


Brush on a rust converter.


I used spray can primer. For paint I used NAPA Intermix MS Pint 56A (black)- $7.75.
Covered the paint with NAPA clearcoat. On the plastic parts I used black Krylon Fusion spray paint.


While the bumper was off I painted the tail end of the van.


Reinstalled the rear bumper. I didn't take a picture at the time but you can see how nice it looks today.

Or maybe not. We're in the middle of a blizzard at the moment. I'll post another picture in the spring.

Front Bumper.
Since the back bumper is now black the front has to match. There is a noticeable dent in the front bumper that was there when I bought it.


To pound it out I read that some advise using a wood block and a hammer. I tried for a while and it didn't seem to improve much so I started using the round end of a ball-peen. Didn't bang real hard, just tap tap tap tap tap.


After about an hour and a half the dent was much improved. Probably could have used a few more minutes but by then I was bored out of my skull.
This pic is after I've used the grinder on the old paint and rust.


Before re-installing I needed to take care of the rust on the bumper mounts. I used a product called Rust Bullet.
Before and After.


Used the same paint and clearcoat that I used on rear bumper. Not to shabby.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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