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Old 02-11-2019, 01:20 PM   #1
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Going into 4 Hi

Hi Everyone,

So the Van I bought is my first 4x4 (2004 E350 Quigley). I have a question regarding how to use it and if I am doing something wrong?

I place my van in park, go outside and manually lock my two front hubs and shift from 2H to 4H and my light comes on. I was reversing in snow up a slight incline and all of a sudden the light goes off and I hear a weird noise (sounded like a low grind/whirling noise). I immediately stop and put my car in park and move it back into 2H. Straighten out my vehicle, put it in park and go back to 4H, back up and park, and put it back into the 2H.

Am I doing something wrong, when I'm shifting am I not doing it hard enough that it "locks" into that gear?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-11-2019, 08:05 PM   #2
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Hi Everyone,

So the Van I bought is my first 4x4 (2004 E350 Quigley). I have a question regarding how to use it and if I am doing something wrong?

I place my van in park, go outside and manually lock my two front hubs and shift from 2H to 4H and my light comes on. I was reversing in snow up a slight incline and all of a sudden the light goes off and I hear a weird noise (sounded like a low grind/whirling noise). I immediately stop and put my car in park and move it back into 2H. Straighten out my vehicle, put it in park and go back to 4H, back up and park, and put it back into the 2H.

Am I doing something wrong, when I'm shifting am I not doing it hard enough that it "locks" into that gear?

Thanks in advance.


I had a issue with my 2000 popping out of gear when the motor mounts moved because they went bad. This was under load and in high torque use.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:22 PM   #3
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Am I doing something wrong, when I'm shifting am I not doing it hard enough that it "locks" into that gear?

Thanks in advance.
Cyrull, sounds like you nailed it. The transfer case just popped out of gear. No need to stop and go to park and restart the process. Just yank it back in to gear. Won't hurt a thing. Transfer cases (meaning 4wd vehicles) with a manual shifter like our vans make some grinding noises on occasion. They are robust machines. Don't worry, you can pop it between 2h, 4h and 4 low from low speeds and you won't hurt a thing. You can also leave the hubs locked for extended periods, as in, the whole situation/drive/whatever where you might need to shift in to 4wd at any moment.
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Old 02-13-2019, 01:05 PM   #4
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Cyrull, sounds like you nailed it. The transfer case just popped out of gear. No need to stop and go to park and restart the process. Just yank it back in to gear. Won't hurt a thing. Transfer cases (meaning 4wd vehicles) with a manual shifter like our vans make some grinding noises on occasion. They are robust machines. Don't worry, you can pop it between 2h, 4h and 4 low from low speeds and you won't hurt a thing. You can also leave the hubs locked for extended periods, as in, the whole situation/drive/whatever where you might need to shift in to 4wd at any moment.
Thanks! What a relief, thought I had broken something.

First time using the 4x4 on the van
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Old 02-13-2019, 01:55 PM   #5
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...unless the transfer case is shot
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:22 PM   #6
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Cycle through between 2H/4H/4L a few times and you’ll begin to learn when it engages/disengages. I also find mine pops out of gear when under load, but only when in 4L.
You’ll notice if you leave your hubs locked that there’s a bit more turning resistance and MPG’s will suffer a bit. No harm in leaving them locked if you’re planning on using 4X4, but still best to unlock when not.
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:47 AM   #7
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Here is what Salem Kroger says about transfer case engagement for the BW1756.
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Old 02-14-2019, 11:09 AM   #8
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Popping out of gear under load is a bad thing, it rolls the leading edge of the teeth over, making it more prone to popping out of gear the next time (because of the now rounded teeth). Gone too far, and it won't engage at all.



You will want to figure out why, and correct it.


The linkage is bolted to the side of the transmission, is one with the t-case. There needs to be plenty of clearance where the shifter runs through the body. If not enough clearance, under load, the engine 'torque rolls', causing the body to rub the shifter, and can cause it to pop out of gear. I've had this happen. Removing the shifter boot and looking for clues, rubbing evidence, is a good first step. On mine, I suspect the motor mounts had gotten soft, and the engine rolled over more now, than when it was built. I added more clearance to mine, by cutting on the body, under the shift boot.


At the same time, I'd check the shifter linkage for tight, sometimes the mounting bolts loosen up by themselves. If yours uses the stock Ford truck linkage, there are pivots that tighten up with age. When they get stiff, it needs to be taken apart and re-lubed with grease.



Most all modern T-cases have internal non-adjustable detents, that are easy to 'feel' once disconnected from the linkage. So long as the linkage is right, the internal detents make sure the
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:50 PM   #9
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Popping out of gear under load is a bad thing, it rolls the leading edge of the teeth over, making it more prone to popping out of gear the next time (because of the now rounded teeth). Gone too far, and it won't engage at all.



You will want to figure out why, and correct it.


The linkage is bolted to the side of the transmission, is one with the t-case. There needs to be plenty of clearance where the shifter runs through the body. If not enough clearance, under load, the engine 'torque rolls', causing the body to rub the shifter, and can cause it to pop out of gear. I've had this happen. Removing the shifter boot and looking for clues, rubbing evidence, is a good first step. On mine, I suspect the motor mounts had gotten soft, and the engine rolled over more now, than when it was built. I added more clearance to mine, by cutting on the body, under the shift boot.


At the same time, I'd check the shifter linkage for tight, sometimes the mounting bolts loosen up by themselves. If yours uses the stock Ford truck linkage, there are pivots that tighten up with age. When they get stiff, it needs to be taken apart and re-lubed with grease.



Most all modern T-cases have internal non-adjustable detents, that are easy to 'feel' once disconnected from the linkage. So long as the linkage is right, the internal detents make sure the


Mine was broken motor mounts that under load would pull on the the linkage and pull it out. I only found this out while crawling on a trail in Colorado and the fan hit the shroud.
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Most the time the Copilot is Now Sophie dog the noise maker.

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