2006 EB 350 Battery/Inverter Questions

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by ghetto fireman

Awesome thanks, so this panel has nothing to due with the converter and the charge wizard?

Correct......Since that panel says "PV controller" on it's face....PV is likely photovoltaic.......

Are there any wires connected to that PV controller?

[ghetto fireman]

Originally Posted by boywonder

Correct......Since that panel says "PV controller" on it's face....PV is likely photovoltaic.......

Are there any wires connected to that PV controller?

There are some wires that I could never figure out. They go to one of my starting batteries. Also I found two wires that had been cut with wire nuts on them. They were inside of the penthouses top.

Things are getting a little clearer now.

Thanks Again !

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by ghetto fireman

There are some wires that I could never figure out. They go to one of my starting batteries. Also I found two wires that had been cut with wire nuts on them. They were inside of the penthouses top.

Things are getting a little clearer now.

Thanks Again !

Sounds like the solar controller may have been wired to the starting batteries......can you post a pic of the back of the solar controller where the wires are connected? The terminals should be labeled batt+ and batt-

...and the cut wires likely went to a solar panel....unless someone was getting creative attempting to use a solar controller as a smart charger for the house battery, but I digress....

[ghetto fireman]

Originally Posted by boywonder

Sounds like the solar controller may have been wired to the starting batteries......can you post a pic of the back of the solar controller where the wires are connected? The terminals should be labeled batt+ and batt-

...and the cut wires likely went to a solar panel....unless someone was getting creative attempting to use a solar controller as a smart charger for the house battery, but I digress....

I’ll pull the panel when I get time. Maybe you can guide me with what’s included if I take pictures?

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by ghetto fireman

I’ll pull the panel when I get time. Maybe you can guide me with what’s included if I take pictures?

Sure, no worries.....

I've been thinking about how your van might be wired......and it provoked some interesting thoughts....mostly that you could charge both starting and house batteries with a Surepower 1314 separator if the solar is connected to the starting battery.

If solar is connected to the house battery then you need a Surepower 1315 to charge the starting battery.

The Surepower 1314 is unidirectional.....connects battery banks when starting batt voltage is higher than house batts......the 1315 connects in either direction so that solar connected to the house battery will also charge starting battery.

...all that being said all of the Blue Sea ACRs are bi-directional....and I would pick one of these over a Surepower but if you already have a Surepower and it works then no worries.

so......please read the label on your separator and let us know if it's a Surepower, and if it's a 1314 or 1315. That's what SMB typically uses in mid 2000's vans.

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by boywonder

Sure, no worries.....

I've been thinking about how your van might be wired......and it provoked some interesting thoughts....mostly that you could charge both starting and house batteries with a Surepower 1314 separator if the solar is connected to the starting battery.

This won't help the OP, but our van is wired with a solenoid that connects the start and house batteries together anytime the engine is running. It's been this way since 2001 and has worked just fine. Start batteries rarely get very discharged from the short period the starter draws power, so they get recharged quickly. The only real disadvantage to this set up is that it does allow the house batt's to supply power to the starter so that if your start battery is weak you might not know it. When I store the van for long periods, I jump the solenoid with a fused wire allowing the solar panels to trickle charge the start battery too. The big advantage of this system is that the total cost is under $50. I discovered a real disadvantage of some separators when one of our members ran her house batts completely flat, and the separator would not close due to the low voltage, meaning the alternator would not recharge the house batteries. The only solution was to plug into shore power until they were recharged, after which things went back to normal. The only other possibility was to fabricate a jumper wire. I understand some separator's have a feature allowing manual closing. Ok, back to the OP's original question..........

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

This won't help the OP, but our van is wired with a solenoid that connects the start and house batteries together anytime the engine is running. It's been this way since 2001 and has worked just fine. Start batteries rarely get very discharged from the short period the starter draws power, so they get recharged quickly. The only real disadvantage to this set up is that it does allow the house batt's to supply power to the starter so that if your start battery is weak you might not know it. When I store the van for long periods, I jump the solenoid with a fused wire allowing the solar panels to trickle charge the start battery too. The big advantage of this system is that the total cost is under $50. I discovered a real disadvantage of some separators when one of our members ran her house batts completely flat, and the separator would not close due to the low voltage, meaning the alternator would not recharge the house batteries. The only solution was to plug into shore power until they were recharged, after which things went back to normal. The only other possibility was to fabricate a jumper wire. I understand some separator's have a feature allowing manual closing. Ok, back to the OP's original question..........

Yup...Solenoids work.....

The other downside to solenoids or Surepower units is that the relay coils get toasty hot.....so when there is a little sunlight the panels heat the coil instead of charging the battery......that why I prefer the ACRs...and no moving parts/coils...completely solid state.

[86Scotty]

Congrats on your van which I'm betting you got a deal on. Also, congrats on not winding up with bruises after a face-to-face with the previous owner.
I would cease and desist making contact. People whose lives have fallen apart financially likely had them fall apart in other ways first and they can get pretty pissy. I was a process server for awhile. Lots of angry folks going through bankrupcy and then can be unpredictable. Anyway, moving on. You'll get more than enough great advice here and soon we'll have you spending all the money on your van you saved on the purchase.

The only question you had which I don't think has been addressed is the shore power plug. You are perfectly fine using an adapter and plugging in via 15/20 amp instead of 30. The only reason I know of that SMB wires them for 30 amp is to support Starcool or other heavy loads such as microwave and other things running simultaneously. I think the 30 amp wiring, standard for most other RVs, is a waste on most Sportsmobiles. You'll be fine plugging in with a regular cord unless your Star Cool doesn't like it.

[ghetto fireman]

Thanks everyone, love my van but have lots to learn!!

Happy Holidays !!

Mike

[ghetto fireman]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

I would take this plug.


and plug it directly into an extension cord from the house, that way you can by pass the other AC wiring. If that does not power your battery, there are a couple of fuses below the fan,(of the progressive unit) that might be blown. You should be able to track the wires from the Progessive Unit to the battery.

-greg

Hey Greg and Happy New Year, I took your advise and plugged it in directly, looks like it’s working, now what does that tell me? Both the green light on the charge wizard and the fan on the Progressive unit are working