Handicap High Roof Transplant?

[Bassy7]

Input needed.

My 2008 E350 has a high top. This van lived in NY for its first few years, the rust underneath has gotten bad over the last 6 years, even down in salt free central VA. It is at the point where many mechanics might not pass it for its next inspection, although some would. Frame is good, some body mounts are questionable. Recently the brake line between the Master cylinder and brake controller burst. High labor charge for repair. So I am not going to get it done. Its a tight access location
Its value is in now in scrap, or as a DIY repair project for someone that is cool with this becoming a “Farm Use” only (non-inspected) vehicle in the near future. It has 154,000 miles, and has always ran well and been reliable. Darn rust!

My newer 2009 E350 has a v10, and only 83,000 miles on it. I am considering swapping the hightop from the 2008 on to the 2009.

Possible issues-
#1. the 2008 was a handicap van, so it definitely has a steel cage inside of the top. Not sure exactly how this would impact a transplant. No, I do not feel the need to swap the cage over as well. Although I am concerned that the steel cage might have some “gotcha” issues that I am not anticipating, when it comes to removing the top.
#2. The Hightop has tall rear doors, which is awesome! Although I am not up for all of the additional work involved in modifying my newer 2009 rear roof line, and bodywork to accommodate the tall doors. So, I would likely need to just close up the tall door cutout in the fiberglass top.
It could be fiberglassed, but I am hoping for an easier/faster method, like using some PVC sheet material, and sealant.

Your experienced input is much appreciated.

[JWA]

The body of the "new" van would indeed need the added "roll cage" transplanted to accommodate the taller rear doors as they are by DOT standards required to latch into the lintel of the raised roof. Since the C-pillar is removed for installing the taller doors structural integrity of the upper body is significantly affected.

To my mind physically removing the taller rear doors then cutting the rusty body free from the entire roof structure just below the gutters would the start. Once free from the donor body removed the "roll cage" and its mounting scheme and prepare the "new" body for it's addition.

That's probably more than you want to do but the heavily modified donor roof might be able to be used "as is" without the "roll cage" although it doesn't immediately strike me how.

If you have the upper interior of the donor van removed study how it was originally installed in compliance with DOT requirements for the removed C-pillar.

HTH

[Bassy7]

Originally Posted by JWA

The body of the "new" van would indeed need the added "roll cage" transplanted to accommodate the taller rear doors as they are by DOT standards required to latch into the lintel of the raised roof. Since the C-pillar is removed for installing the taller doors structural integrity of the upper body is significantly affected.

To my mind physically removing the taller rear doors then cutting the rusty body free from the entire roof structure just below the gutters would the start. Once free from the donor body removed the "roll cage" and its mounting scheme and prepare the "new" body for it's addition.

That's probably more than you want to do but the heavily modified donor roof might be able to be used "as is" without the "roll cage" although it doesn't immediately strike me how.

If you have the upper interior of the donor van removed study how it was originally installed in compliance with DOT requirements for the removed C-pillar.

HTH

I appreciate your response, but I believe there is some confusion.
My Donor van has all of the pillars intact, C pillar has no issues. As the tall doors are on the back middle of the van. Not on the right 60/40 side as they normally are.

Also, I am fine using stock/short doors with this top, which will keep the stock roof structure in place over the rear doors.
However, I would need to fill the VOID in the fiberglass roof, that the tall doors are meant to take up.

[REF]

Might still be more work than it’s worth, consider selling the van as is and get yourself a Tuffport installed on the V10.

[Bassy7]

Originally Posted by REF

Might still be more work than it’s worth, consider selling the van as is and get yourself a Tuffport installed on the V10.

I am not afraid of hands on projects, and I actually thrive on such novel projects.
My business is slower now, than it was last year. So I have more time than money these days.
The cost of even just buying (not installed) a new fiberglass top is ridiculous right now, it is around $6,500-$7,000 for me on the east coast.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Bassy7

I appreciate your response, but I believe there is some confusion.

Actually I'm not confused or misunderstanding at all---I know what you're seeking to do---I now own two similar E-Series with the taller rear doors and raised roof where the inner "roll cage" was installed.

Proceed as you think best---hoping it comes out as you envision!

[Bassy7]

Originally Posted by JWA

Actually I'm not confused or misunderstanding at all---I know what you're seeking to do---I now own two similar E-Series with the taller rear doors and raised roof where the inner "roll cage" was installed.

Proceed as you think best---hoping it comes out as you envision!

You mentioned removing “the C pillar” for the tall rear doors. That threw me off, as the C pillars are about halfway down the side of the van.

I am not sure what the roof structure between the rear most E Pillars is called, but that is probably what you were referring to. ;-)

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Bassy7

You mentioned removing “the C pillar” for the tall rear doors. That threw me off, as the C pillars are about halfway down the side of the van.

I am not sure what the roof structure between the rear most E Pillars is called, but that is probably what you were referring to. ;-)

From whom did you obtain that information?

Coming from past ownership of an auto body collision repair shop we used the A, B. and C-pillar along with potentially D-Pillar designations as a quick reference to what structural elements of a vehicle's were in need of repair, they were never "official" factory definition or description. Those body elements were actually assemblies formed from various smaller parts welded together before finding their way into the full body of an E-Series.

This has come up before and I thought to contact I-CAR for their definition of such body parts, hoping it benefits all who visit and use this site. Using a VIN from a 2006 E-350 I-Car responded thusly:


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D-Pillar Identification / 2006 Ford E-250: D-Pillar Clarification
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Ask I-CAR Team <ask@i-car.com>
1:00 PM (30 minutes ago)
to me

Hi JW,

Per I-CAR curriculum: "D-pillars are the pillars rearward of the C-pillars that support the roof, as in station wagons, vans and some SUVs.

D-pillar designs may include the rear gate or hatch frame, and the side panel or quarter panel."


The 2006 Ford E-250 Workshop manual does not identify the number of pillars.
The Workshop manual can be found at: http://www.motorcraftservice.com


Sincerely,
The Repairability Technical Support Team!

I'm thinking this might be helpful so we're all using similar terms or descriptions in instances like this where "common knowledge is contrary to actual definitions.
​

[Bassy7]

Originally Posted by JWA

From whom did you obtain that information?

​

My autobody knowledge and experience is non professional.

So my answer is…. From the internet, where all things both wrong, right and somewhere in between can be found!

Typical images of mini vans refer to the rear most pillar as the D pillar, and discussions in this forum and other sources, often call the rear most pillar on the extended body, the E pillar.

It makes sense to me, but if we are not all on the same page with terminology, then all bets are off.

As you know, common knowledge is often wrong, or at odds with professional knowledge.

Now that we have that cleared up…. My thoughts are to only cutout the roof on my 2009 V10, and keep all pillars, and the horizontal structure between the rear most pillars in place, and also keeping the stock doors in place. This would leave me with a gap above the back doors in the fiberless roof, that I would need to fill. I am leaning towards a PVC panel for the filler.
I would also be tempted to leave a rear shelf up to the rearmost roof rib, mirroring the shelf that is typically above the drivers seat. So both interior ends would have a “loft” for storage.