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Old 05-07-2013, 06:29 PM   #11
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Re: Sway bar disconnects

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Originally Posted by daveb
I know some who have broke off the pin and they stick in a bolt but I was afraid of wallowing out the hole and in most cases anyway, you would have to drill out the sway bar because (at least on mine) it shears off inside the sway bar... there's no open hole.
So there's pin IN the end of that bar? I just assumed it was a hole with the hitch pin going all the way through both it and the eye of the link. If the pin is fixed inside the sway bar end that might explain why it breaks; it would be a torque as the pin twists, but gets bound up. Easier to torque a bolt hard enough to break it off vs shearing it. Usually they are through a bushing that allows it to turn freely.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:14 PM   #12
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Re: Sway bar disconnects

Craig Jackson of Whitefeather (formally from Salem Kroger) designed and made my disconnect. It disconnects from one side. It has 2 pins holding it in place that have to be pulled to disconnect the drivers side. Works well and I can connect it by my self-with the aid of a crow bar.

Angel
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:37 PM   #13
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Re: Sway bar disconnects

There is no twist, only pressure up and down. At each end of the disconnect bar there is a rubber bushing with a SS sleeve that is inside the bushing. The 1/2 pins are welded on the axles lower mount and into the sway bar. There are washers on each side of the rubber bushing both top and bottom. To pull the disconnects, all you have to do is get the axle level, pull the lock pins and pull the bar straight off the sway bar pins. With either side off, the opposite side pulls off easily. Putting them back on is more difficult than pulling them and two people makes the job quicker. Sometimes it takes a bit of moving the axle up or down by driving on to a rock or in a hole to get the pins to line up. After doing it a few times, it's not too time consuming.



I'm sure you can figure a better way for you setup. I did see some conversions on the web that are configured for your sway bar.

Good luck
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:38 PM   #14
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Re: Sway bar disconnects

No twist? Usually the sway bar must pivot in its bushing as either side of the van's suspension gets compressed. That changes the angle of the bar's arms relative to the horizontal; not much, but some depending on your suspension travel. I suppose it could all be done with just the torsion of the bar, but I would think on our vehicles there's gotta be some pivot at the end of the top link. There is on mine; that's why I have to make the van completely level to hook up again. And lots of end links use heim joints for that reason, I suspect, so that the angle can change. Mine uses bushings, and pivots a bit at both ends.

Here's a heim setup; I'd use something similar (it's also like what ujoint uses) if I had to replace mine, but again I'm still thinking of a quick disconnect. But if I have to go non-quick I figure the heims might make it easier to unbolt and bolt back on. Dunno.



If the right angle formed by the pin from the bar and the end link were to change in or out (with say some side flex) then the two pins would bind, and be subject to being twisted right off.

But hey, I'm just speculating based on how mine work. I got the van up on a rock to see how it flexed and it was more than I expected. Thanks tons for your suggestions.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #15
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Re: Sway bar disconnects



Well I'd call it rotate or spin. If you took your connecting rod and put a 90* bend in it and also rotate the end of the sway bar you'd basically have the same thing. When the sway bar flexes, the pins rotates a bit. The SMB link is free floating and not fixed. They don't really move side to side if the sway bar slightly flexes as far as I know.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:13 PM   #16
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Re: Sway bar disconnects

Ah, that's the part I wanted to know. If it's free floating then it can stay vertical as the bar changes angle. Makes sense.

But I know I get a bit of slop; that's why I've got urethane bushings since it moves a bit in different directions. Others have suggested a heim joint and stud; it too can move in several directions but is more rigid of course. Now I'm wondering if the bushings make the rebound a bit bouncier. Probably my shocks are more responsible for that.

I'm talking with Roadmaster about getting some end links I can modify to make a bit more removable; I haven't come up with anything I can buy and install that would work.

Rob
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