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Old 10-08-2018, 06:54 PM   #11
REF
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My big fat interior (re)build

Ok, feeding you guys slowly, donít want to get ahead of myself!
Iíve wanted to delete the propane system in the van for some time and move to a single fuel source(diesel) on top of DC power.
That meant that we would have to find alternatives for our clunky Suburban propane heater and the equally bulky Atwood propane cooktop thatís been taking up too much valuable counter space for far too long.
For heat, weíre adding the smaller Espar D2 diesel heater (vs. the D4) with the high altitude kit. This option has been implemented and tested enough, sometimes with its own series of issues, but I feel that with proper use and maintenance, itís a great unit, and small!
I had looked into the diesel Wallace stoves, more geared towards the boating and marine industry, but they didnít seem to have a very positive reputation for use in land based applications, especially at altitude where they had a tendency to soot and clog up fairly easily. Plus I wanted something flush mounted. After much research and talking it over with several up fitters to see what theyíre installing, including Matt at Adventure Vehicle Concepts (avcrig.com), who Iíve turned to for our rebuild, Iíve decided on going with a single burner True induction stove. More on that and its power requirements later.....back to the destruction!
Dropped the big pig from underneath, I should have painted this thing pink a long time ago!
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Next was to remove as much of the fiberglass insulation remnants, I used blue Nyalox drill attachments, worked pretty well and I managed to eat through one of them during the process, money well spent!
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I didnít bother using any solvents or goo gone to tackle the spray adhesive used to attach SMBís fiberglass insulation, it would have turned to mush and been a complete mess. I figured it was better left alone as I was covering it all with Noico(a Dynamat like product from the good olí Russian Federation&#129323 before Thinsulate insulation is installed.
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
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Ugh!! Luckily the only rust spot to be found....a peculiar spot, just beside the drivers rear wheel well. Although thereís so many holes going through the floor for everything from 12V electrical to plumbing to stereo cables, Iím surprised the whole floor wasnít rusted out. And look thereís a hole right next to the rust where the rear bench seat used to bolt through, just left wide open....
Attachment 23186
Late to this build thread, hope to add something useful about this rust issue. First question is what was laying on top of that spot if anything at all? I know from experience the OEM-type mats with fibrous backing causes a lot of rust due its absorbing moisture and never evaporating out.

From what I see in the photo that rust is dangerously close to a known problem area for E-Series vans, the underside floor cross member rusts away to the point a major floor repair is necessary. Given the area its located removing the rusty section and replacing it with metal welded in place, properly treated against rust (POR-15) and seam sealed to ensure a long lasting repair.

BTW holes in the floor don't seem to cause much rust---even while driving in very wet road conditions (snow, rain) the underside floor (except for the wheel wells) stays surprisingly dry.

Anyway hope this helps.
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:33 PM   #13
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My big fat interior (re)build

JWA- Yes, thanks for the tip. There wasnít anything under the ply adhered to the floor ribs. I took a good look again underneath the van at that location that was rusted above, thereís only just a bit of surface rust that will be getting a coating of Por15

Speaking of Por15......I had never worked with this stuff before, make sure you wear gloves, if you donít wipe it off right away, itís on there! It did go on fairly easy and looks pretty good once itís dry. Thanks to Ray(1der) for his insight on application as well as being my general counsel for the build....
Look how nice and shiny!
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Old 10-10-2018, 12:06 AM   #14
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Not a hijack, just a philosophical conversation starter perhaps. What makes an SMB an SMB? Rick (REF) has just pulled the last bit of SMB out of his after having changed the top to CCV a few years ago and modding it to no end. So, is it an SMB? What should we call it? I kind of like DSMB (de-SMB).
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:35 AM   #15
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Well, this is true, the last piece of SMBís build came out with the interior, there is the general bits of the 4X4, but thatís Quigleyís stuff anyway, and even there, the only piece thatís left of that is the transfer case and thatís not really a Quigley part....So, letís see who can come up with the best acronym. Although it has already been dubbed Frankenmobile in an obvious nod to Frankensteinís monster, or Frankelmobile (my last name+mobile).
Anyway, hereís all the shops that have been part of the re-build of my now de-Sportsmobile

Boulder off road-suspension, axle
Agile off road-RIP kit
Colorado Camper Van-pop top
Adventure Vehicle Concepts-interior

BACA...no.....CABA....eh

I have one!.......

Colorado (off)Road Adventure Concepts.....otherwise known as......CRAC
Cause itís so damn addictive!
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:50 AM   #16
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That is perfect.

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Old 10-10-2018, 11:07 AM   #17
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I have one!.......

Colorado (off)Road Adventure Concepts.....otherwise known as......CRAC
Cause itís so damn addictive!
I hear crack can keep you up for days, something that might be useful in the next month since there are only 38 days to the start of the Baja 1000
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:14 PM   #18
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:24 PM   #19
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.......Nice
Iíve been plugging away this week to get soundproofing done, finished it today and moved onto insulation. Maybe I can get an endorsement from Noico....Vlad, you picking this up?
The beginning stage
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The finished product
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:53 PM   #20
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Finished up the insulation today, canít tell you how nice this thinsulate is to work with! I believe I am using material thatís rated at 3.8 R-Value, and I was able to double up in certain areas to give me almost 8. Itís rated as an acoustic thermal, so will also aid in sound on top of the Noico sound deadening material I used, should be nice and quite in there!
Hereís the description of the product, thereís a SM400L and a SM600L. Again, Iím pretty sure Matt gets in the 400L version that I used, Iíll have to confirm.

Description.....
3M SM400L sound thermal insulation engineered for vehicles. 60" wide, scrim on one side. 1 linear foot is 5 square feet. Material comes compressed from 3M. The material will expand to 1" . Thinsulate is FMVSS 302 certified (federal motor vehicle safety standard). Delivers more acoustic absorption per unit weight vs. competitive products Helps customers meet mass reduction goals Non-woven sound absorbing fibers create a quieter vehicle environment Hydrophobic fibers resist moisture, mold and mildew Recommend using 3M 90 Adhesive Spray to apply the white fiber side to the Van skin.

I first cut pieces to fit into the indented areas of the van walls, as well as to fit into the areas in between the outer and inner wall that were reachable. I used a general purpose spray adhesive.
First layer, you can see it stuffed into the wall cavity.
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Then came the 2nd layer, I did this in one piece to create a seamless layer. I used the little electric rotating cutting blade to cut around the windows and trim the excess, worked great.
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Hereís a shot of the thinsulate material.
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Next will be wall panels and floor.....
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