Solar installed!

[rockbender]

Nice work!

I have the same SP 1315-200 dilemma that you do. I ended up wiring a toggle switch in line to the ground on the separator so I can more easily activate / deactivate the unit. Not ideal by any means, but not enough of a pain that I am going to swap to a 1314 or bluesea unit at this point.

[Scalf77]

A way to handle the dilemma of the SP1315 -200 is a variation of the switch. Putting a relay controlled by the Van run circuit will only ground the SP1315 when the van is running. Putting the switch on the normally closed input of the SPDT relay will allow you to switch it on, if you want to charge starters from solar. It still has the problem that it could be left on, but at least you won't have to remember to switch it on when you want some charge from alternator.





greg

[1der]

Maybe a stupid question, but I cannot find an answer anywhere:

Is there any REAL difference between a "RV" solar panel and residential panel? Is there a structural difference to better handle vibrations, wind loads, etc?

I see many people using two panels, in the case here 2 x 140w vs. using a single 280w. Just wondering the rational behind two vs. one.

Thanks!

[JoeH]

Originally Posted by 1der

Maybe a stupid question, but I cannot find an answer anywhere:

Is there any REAL difference between a "RV" solar panel and residential panel? Is there a structural difference to better handle vibrations, wind loads, etc?

I see many people using two panels, in the case here 2 x 140w vs. using a single 280w. Just wondering the rational behind two vs. one.

Thanks!

That's a good question. I like the Kyrocea as it has an added cross bar in the middle and is designed to handle a significant snow load. As for wind and stability, it would be interesting to see some wind tunnel tests. My guess is that even when placed close to the front most of the air being forced up and over the roof by the windshield is also mostly passing over the panel.

[Scalf77]

Most larger size panels above 140 -160 have higher Vmp and Voc ratings (21 to 40 volts). While not a bad thing it just means that you would have to go to a charger that would support that high of a voltage and make use of it. This would move you from a PWM to a MPPT controller, they are generally more expensive. Many people with 140 watt panels use MPPT controllers also, but a panel that had a high Vmp would make it mandatory.

-greg

[jony101]

very good job, I have a single 240 watt sharp panel on my van and for me its the lowest size I would use. So 280 watts on your van is excellent, it will do at least 12 amps in direct sunlight. With 12 amps your cooking with fire so to speak.
And for those trying to do this its an easy job, 4 L brackets some bolts, rv putty tape and sealant. Its a 2 man job but I did it myself. It just looks hard.
And it isnt all that expensive I paid 200 dollaars for my panel off of craiglist, you can find a good mppt controller (required for large panels) on ecoworthy for 102 dollars, what i use. Total about 400 dollars in my case.
Solar power can get most of your needs done, charging phones laptops, running swamp coolers etc, nothing like unlimited free energy. you an even use it to charge a dead starter battery in worst case scenario.
I have a 145 amp agm battery and the solar panel always keeps it floating, it rarely gets below 13.7 when in direct sunlight even when i have the swamp cooler running and using my roadpro to cook. for your battery to get under 12.4 volt with a 10 amp load there might indicate something wrong with batteries or the sun was not out. If the sun was out the battery should always indicate 13.7 with the amps reading 10 amps being pumped back into the battery. 10 amps would be nothing for 2 x 140 watt panels and an mppt controller. Just an observation.

[photographix]

Originally Posted by 1der

Maybe a stupid question, but I cannot find an answer anywhere:

Is there any REAL difference between a "RV" solar panel and residential panel? Is there a structural difference to better handle vibrations, wind loads, etc?

I see many people using two panels, in the case here 2 x 140w vs. using a single 280w. Just wondering the rational behind two vs. one.

Thanks!

Not a stupid question!

I don't think there really is much difference. I looked at Grape, and they don't mention RV use in their specs, though they would probably be fine, except for the warranty issue if there is one.

I went with Kyocera because so many people use them on SMBs. NAWS also sells them as an RV package, which made me confident in this application. As JoeH said, the Kyoceras have a center cross support, and they feel very sturdy.

I thought the the wind would vibrate the panels a lot, but it seems that the (lack of?) aerodynamics of the van keeps the panels shielded pretty well. I aimed my outside mirror up at the panels on my test drive and didn't see any bad vibrations, nor notice any extra noise at up to 85 mph on my last trip.

I can also reach the front panel with my arm out the window and the panels don't seem to be being buffeted. Vibrations from off-road, daily on-road driving, and lowering the PH might be another story.

Don't worry too much, though. Panels are designed to be out in the weather, which can include high winds in thunderstorms.

One advantage to two panels is if one is damaged by a rock thrown up by a semi or something. You'd likely still have a complete panel that was undamaged. That's pretty unlikely, though!

[photographix]

Originally Posted by jony101

...
I have a 145 amp agm battery and the solar panel always keeps it floating, it rarely gets below 13.7 when in direct sunlight even when i have the swamp cooler running and using my roadpro to cook. for your battery to get under 12.4 volt with a 10 amp load there might indicate something wrong with batteries or the sun was not out. If the sun was out the battery should always indicate 13.7 with the amps reading 10 amps being pumped back into the battery. 10 amps would be nothing for 2 x 140 watt panels and an mppt controller. Just an observation.

My house batteries were inherited from the PO. I doubt he took good care of the originals, and cheaped out by using Walmart Everstart marines as replacements. He told me they were original, but the stickers on the batts indicate they were installed in late 2011 (SMB did the van conversion in 2008). I don't want to say he lied to me, at least not out loud.

So, yes, my house batts have been abused by lack of maintenance and incorrect use by way of inappropriate wiring. I know this. I estimate that they probably have 50% of life left in them. I am going to use them until they become too inconvenient to live with. When they are replaced, I'm going with AGMs instead of wet cell marines. I'd do it now, but it's not in the budget at the moment.

Neat thing about the Blue Sky 3000i is that it's easy to do an equalize on the batts, and it will automatically do an equalize every 30 days if you configure it to do so. So far, I've done one equalize, but I think the batts are too far gone for it to help much. Time and use will tell.

[photographix]

Update:

We had a terrific hail/thunderstorm here yesterday. Hail was pea-sized, and the panels on the van were fully exposed. I was scared the hail would crack the panels' glass. I worried for nothing, the panels were fine.

Whew!

[daveb]

I hate that