Scalf77

It ended up being the start capacitor was bad.

I will be honest I have never seen the relay that is in the gray box, I didn't expect it to be a standard 12 volt5 pin automotive relay. I suspect they are controlling the hot wire to the AC. At this point it comes down to binary debug.

With the output of the relay disconnected, when you turn on the breaker does AC come through to the output pin (not connected).

If you could send a picture of the box, also you could try the private message function of the forum, it is slightly better for this type of thing and it would allow you to take photos

All the fuses and relays up top seem to be working and functioning properly. I'm talking about the box underneath the van by the 110V AC. When I first opened the box cover it appeared the relay had gotten very hot and the ends of the wires were hot/melted as well. I replaced the relay with a 30amp I got from O'Rileys and put new ends on the wires as well. The power block and solenoid are old but don't show signs of of failure. Where I'm currently stuck at is that that using a volt meter there is power going to the 110V AC relay and I can hear it click but there is not power coming out of it to the Solenoid and the 110V compressor does not turn on. The starcool unit only blows warm air because the 110v compressor is not turning on.

Hey Greg! I've got a 2000 E-350 Sportsmobile and having a hard time to get the AC to run on shorepower. Works perfectly driving down the road. Both fans work when plugged in and relay clicks but 110V AC Compressor is not turning on. I changed the relay and still no change. It appears that power is going in but power is not coming out of the relay? Any advice?

Hi Greg -- got an electrical question for ya -- 2002 E350 - V10 - I wanted to pick up a couple of spare relays for when traveling. The currently installed read - P/N - 2626 - 1981 - USA - 12-volt -- I think they are 4 pin (at 12 - 3 - 6 - and 9 spots) haven't pulled one - not sure. Should be 30 amp ? Advance Auto can't seem to find any - can a 5 pin be used - if no 4 pin found - taped off the 5th pin so no short circuits, etc.? Thoughts - source for 4 pins ? Thanks !

I really like your Transit. I would like to come see your build sometime. Recently moved here with with Ford Motor from Colorado and we now live in north Portland area.

Richard

Hi Scalf77... I'm new to this forum and I hope I am contacting you appropriately.
I was reading your awsome description of how to install the Kisae DMT-1250 DC to DC charger. I bought one of these and have not 'cracked the seal' on the unit because the documentation I have read leads me to believe that cannot use the CUSTOM PROGRAM mode and Temperature Compensation simultaneously.
That is, I can set the Absorb and Float values to match the battery manufacturer's instructions, but I can't use Temperature Compensation either with or without the sensor. So you can have the voltages you want or you can correct for temperature on the default voltages, but you can't do both.


In your post you wrote
" I will choose Program or Custom Settings, and program the Bulk/Absorption to 14.3 and the Float to 13.3"


Laster in the post you state that you will be using the Sensor for Temperature Compensation ( to these custom settings). This is what I assumed I could do until I read the manual.



My question for you is 'Were you able to use a Custom settings and Temperature Compensation( either by sensor or key) at the same time?


Lee L

Try again, I updated to the new google sites, and don't think I published


Let me know

Hi! I have a '97 RB50 and am looking for a manual. I found a link to your google site, but it says I need access. Can you help me out? It would be much appreciated. The address I used to try is contender at gmail, so you may have a note from me. Many thanks!

Hello,

Thanks for your recent help on the forum to help me understand the batteries and charging circuits on my SMB.

I had a thought today and wondered if my idea is good or crap...

I have the Sure Power 1315-200 and am assuming it is tied to the Start Circuit on my van, so it has the Auto Connect on Start feature. Instead of disconnecting this Auto Connect wire, and hooking a momentary switch between the 1315 and a battery, could I put a toggle switch in the wire connecting the 1315 and the Start Circuit of the ignition switch?

I am thinking this would disable the Auto connect feature that I don't want, but when the new switch is in the ON position it would connect the house battery to the start batteries when the van ignition is in the Start position.

Is there some reason this is not a good idea?

I do plan to upgrade to the Blue Sea 7622, so this is a stop gap plan for now.

Thanks for your help!

Brian Rutherford