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Old 08-18-2019, 08:03 PM   #31
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: PNW
Posts: 32
Yep - I'm referring to dycor lap sealant (with the bald guy on the bottle). 3m 5200 is great - especially because it's an adhesive and sealant. And I know it's rated to work with plastics, but I've seen first hand how it will peel right off in one long piece over time from roof vents. Dycor remains more malleable and takes quite a bit more effort to get off. I use it to both seal the seem and seal the screw holes.

One tip - when applying dycor, do 1 nice thick bead, wait 30 minutes (longer when cooler, shorter when hot) and come back and push it lightly in to the seem with your finger. The outer will have skinned over, allowing you to make sure that it's pushed in to any cracks and all air bubbles are gone. You can always come back and add second bead if you feel it'a needed.

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Old 08-28-2019, 04:05 PM   #32
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Northern California
Posts: 48
Where is everyone finding their Unistrut? My EB CCV high top is right at the bleeding edge of 10' between the front bolt and the back bolt. 10' is the longest length I can find online and that would be a squeaker. Which size is recommended, 1 5/8" x 1 5/8", 1 5/8" x 13/16"? Any preferred vendors?

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Old 08-28-2019, 09:14 PM   #33
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 4,275
Commercial vendors typically stock 20' sticks. I've used Fastenal, Platt Electric, and ACME all successfully. Basically I just use whoever has the closest warehouse.

Keep in mind Unistrut is a brand name, but is used ubiquitously like Kleenex. The proper term is "structural strut channel". Other common brands are SuperStrut, Kindorf-strut, Hilti-Strut, Power-Strut and I'm sure others. If you order from a real person, they'll know what you mean. But if you limit your online searches to "Unistrut" only, you might accidentally limit your search results.

For a base-tracks, 13/16th thickness works great. It doesn't stick up very far, but is plenty strong. I call this "half-size". But if I'm building anything with long un-supported spans or carrying heavy loads, I'll use 1-5/8" or "full-size" sticks.
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Old 08-29-2019, 03:24 AM   #34
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,939
I do not see the need to use the bolts that are used to attach the top to the lifting rails to also attach the tracks. I think it is better to have them separate. Sometimes the lifting rail is not parallel to the roof edges, or the rails are not equally spaced from the edges. So using the six rail attach bolts can create unistrut alignment/parallel issues. The fiberglass top itself is stout and if the tracks are mounted just inboard of the rail there is not going to be any issue unless the plan is to carry 10,000 lbs on the roof.

Get some finishing caps for the inside nuts, drill the holes accurately and use some high grade silicone to seal. Greatest care needed is being careful w the interior material. Best to drill the fiberglass first and either cut an X in the headliner material or “hot point” the hole to melt the material where the hole comes through. It will FAR easier to use this method than to remove and then reinstall those six bolts. (CCV now welds tabs to the inboard face of upper rail that are used to attach the tracks. They are not using the top attach bolts)

Independently mounting the tracks would also allow setting the tracks at different widths say for solar panels vs basket.

Beastie 3: 2002 7.3 EB Cargo: Agile TTB, CCV Mid Top, Custom Walk Through, Lots of stuff added.
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