Window Plate Adhesive Questions

[lashidalgo]

Originally Posted by JWA

Butyl is great WHEN used as we see on the side windows of our vans----it still found use on the E-Series while they were in production. AT has this right in that the bolts actually hold the glass in place, the butly nothing but a sealant. In the best case scenarios it remains somewhat soft and pliable over time making it desirable in that application.

I have resealed quite a few E-Series side windows where the butyl is mostly still in place but loose bolts allow the glass to pull away from the body ever so slightly allowing water to leak in. Of course those loose bolts always seem to be across the top.

My original point about installing a replacement panel was/is it must be done using some sort of mechanical fasteners, sealants used only as that and in no way as a sole means of holding the part to the van body. Hope I didn't drag this thread too far afield.

JWA, I'm a new user but I have been browsing this forum for like a year. In that year I've been amazed at your knowledge and your disposition to spread the word of your experience, thanks for the high-quality content that you always put out.

That been said, I have some comments.

I didn't mean to use the tape to hold the plate but use the tape to seal the gap between the body and the plate, then fix the plate with some sort of carriage bolts, kind of like the window is attached. These are my $.02 but again, I'm not an expert on the subject by any means, I've just resealed my windows with the tape which I found great and I thought I would share.

I'm also looking for a provider of these plates, but I haven't had any luck.

[arctictraveller]

[QUOTE=I'm also looking for a provider of these plates, but I haven't had any luck.[/QUOTE]

Pretty much any sheet-metal fabrication shop or machine shop should be able to make these for you. If you can give them a spare window as a template it's easy to roll the plate to match the body curve and then drill the holes to match the bolt holes in the pinch weld.

[freeagent]

Originally Posted by lashidalgo

BTW how did you manage to get the Al plate? DIY? I've been trying to get something alike with no luck

Opt Overland makes them:

https://optoverland.com/collections/...nded-body-side

[JWA]

Originally Posted by lashidalgo

I didn't mean to use the tape to hold the plate but use the tape to seal the gap between the body and the plate, then fix the plate with some sort of carriage bolts, kind of like the window is attached. These are my $.02 but again, I'm not an expert on the subject by any means, I've just resealed my windows with the tape which I found great and I thought I would share.

Sharing info is how we all learn---if I seemed to assume you were suggesting butyl tape only for attachment my apologies. In my business the phrase "adhesive/sealant" it too often misunderstood, the problems created by using the wrong material runs from inconvenient to somewhat hazardous. I hope only to help DIY's here to avoid such things.

Originally Posted by lashidalgo

I'm also looking for a provider of these plates, but I haven't had any luck.

As AT says cutting the actual shape of replacement panels is fairly straight forward, most any sheet metal shop having the capability. Lucky for us the glass is basically flat horizontally, the body curve running mostly vertical. As I want to replace all the rear glass in my Club Wagon van I'll be generating my own patterns saving that bit of set up labor.

The panels would be 16 gauge steel protected with POR-15 then painted, wet sanded and buffed with a deep bronze finish to mimic the existing glass. Building out the spacer ring and attaching it all securely to the body is still in the mental planning stages, almost finished and ready to prototype. Mind you this is some time off yet, probably not until spring of 2019 at the earliest.

The OPT Overland panels are great for their purpose and if shipping isn't too drastic they'd be a strong consideration for most looking to add them. They're stout and ready to install. Cost is acceptable for a one time purchase, IMHO anyway.

[malcolmzilla]

I've had good luck using a polyurethane automotive seam sealer / adhesive for bonding things to my econoline. Available at any parts store, it remains a bit flexible once cured and can be cut out with a utility knife should you want to reverse the installation.

[JVan]

It sounds like a lot of us with the passenger vans have the same idea. I took some more photos and marked them up. Hopefully these will help all of you as well. This was the best idea I could come up with to keep the plate flush to the body like the other windows. I’ll grab some seem sealer or silicone like y’all have mentioned to seal the gasket piece to the aluminum plate. I’ll use the butyl rope to seal the gasket to the van body like Ford originally did. This will allow me to try it out and easily remove it if need be. Going to use these tamper resistant spanner pan head bolts with a nylock nut. McMaster Carr part # 94135A453.

[JVan]

I keep thinking it would be neat to build a cabinet to install in place of the window. Something that would open from the outside. I’d like more exterior storage for dirty items like recovery gear.
One day when I have some time and get better with sketch up I’ll draw up a prototype.

[JWA]

Your plan so far is pretty sound however a few ideas to throw out......

Adhesive between the original glass and junkyard gasket: As originally built that gasket is supposed to be part of the glass---its what we call and encapsulated assembly, they're bonded together. When new glass is installed during the original build or replacement glass used that assembly is simply bolted to the body using butyl tape in between as you have already discovered. Since you were able to separate them that's great as it eliminates on part of the fabricating solid metal glass replacement parts. (I'd be curious what tools you used separating them---might be able to adapt that myself. )

FWIW I have/had a slightly different approach in mind regarding the gasket and metal. It involved basically building my own gasket of sufficient thickness to allow installation of a single sheet of 16 gauge steel that would be flush with the body. The how-to of that is another story for another time perhaps.

I'd not use the spanner head screws you show as the tools used to hold those while being tightened are very fragile and cannot hold sufficient torque without breaking as you're clamping the metal/gasket assembly to the body. I'd look for a truss-head bolt that is similar to a carriage bolt but instead of a square projection under the head there are two "tangs" in place of that part---these will dig into the metal enough to allow enough torque to seal your assembly to the body.

(I'll look for those bolts I mention and update this thread when I have more info about them.)

Your question what goes between the gasket and the metal would be silicone adhesive/sealant, stuff that's available from Lowe's/Home Depot for exterior grade use. GE makes a Type III I like, it's less than $6 a 10 ounce caulking tube. Its easy to work with and does a great job while being able to be removed if that need ever arises.

I honestly like your approach to all this JVan, hoping I'm helping rather than mucking up your process.

[JVan]

You're always a big help here JWA. Going to use the silicone that you've mentioned.

Yes, I'm probably over thinking the security with the spanner bolts. Going to try them with a lock washer. Hoping that I won't need a lot of torque to engage the washer which should help hold the head while the nut is tightened. I'll see if it works. If not your tang bolt is a good idea.

I want to try to make them look like the Ford caps on the other windows. Going to brush some black plasti dip on them to cover the spanner holes and make the head look smooth like the caps. I need to paint the other window caps too as they are getting weathered, especially the older caps I pulled for the rear pop outs.

To remove the gasket, my best guess was an oscillating tool with a normal wood blade. It was pretty slow to cut but it let me put an angle and pressure up against the glass and keep the blade under the gasket. The blades are small and bend pretty easily which helped with the curvature of the glass.