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Old 06-02-2012, 12:10 PM   #11
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Ye haw!! Got it all back together and driving well again!
It turns out that the rear drive shaft did have grease jerks, it also appears that the PO did not have a clue they were there . When I pulled everything apart the rear U-joint came out as dust. The fronts were also bad and is what caught my attention when this all started. The front drive shaft are indeed sealed units so I hope all is well with those.
Question about the front drive shaft, When the Atlas T-case is shifted in 2 wd high and the front hubs are unlocked does the front drive shaft still rotate? Or does it just go along for the ride intill you shift into 4 wd and lock the hubs? Some past trucks Ive owned do and some don't depending on what sort of 4wd system is in them.
A big thanks to "BIGVANS" for the video info and a big thanks to "BajaSportsmobile" for the recommedation of doing both front and rear.
4X4Kayaker Im glad your repair was as easy as mine, got to love and appreciate the cheap ones.
TraceyAZ

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Old 06-03-2012, 05:46 AM   #12
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TraceyAZ
Question about the front drive shaft, When the Atlas T-case is shifted in 2 wd high and the front hubs are unlocked does the front drive shaft still rotate? Or does it just go along for the ride intill you shift into 4 wd and lock the hubs? Some past trucks Ive owned do and some don't depending on what sort of 4wd system is in them.
If in 2wd and hubs are unlocked, nothing should turn in the front axel. If it does there is energy lost in friction. Easy to check, mark the drive shafts and drive around.
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Old 06-05-2012, 02:21 PM   #13
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

On my way back from Wyoming my rear U-joint started to go out. Try to find one in Ely Nv on Memorial Day but I made it home. I stuck it in front wheel drive only and the vibration stopped so I knew it was something back there. Had a drive line shop balance and do the work. Installed two new zirkless 1410 U joints in. Not to start a zirk/zirkless argument going but They claim that zirkless are stronger and many lightweight off roader prefere zirkless because the have way better seals. They did say if I did a lot of mudding or water crossing that zirks are better because once you clear the mud or water you can grease them. It's something you should do ASAP after clearing the trail and myself, because I don't want to crawl under to grease before going home after incountering a bog or creek, I went with the greaseless.
SMB suggest replacement before 80,000 and I'm past that. I'm sure lighter rigs could go longer but it's on my to do list now. Funny thing, while under the van in Ely, a guy walked up and asked if there was a problem...told em I think a U-Joint. He laughed and said look in the back of my truck. There was a busted up driveline. Same thing happened to him but it blew off and he had to get a new driveline. It really made my 300 mile drive fun just waiting for the worst to happen


BTW the Atlas II yoke nut was a bit loose and I had it re-torqued (150-160Foot pounds)
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