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Old 02-02-2018, 03:04 PM   #1
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High Roof rack question

We have a 2004 SMB EB. It was built in Indiana at SMB North. The roof was made by a company called Viking, which has been out of business for a few years. At the rear, its a bit more square than the Voyager tops made by Fiberine. We're wanting an aluminum roof rack like the ones made by Aluminess. I contacted them, but they said they would only build one if all the upper cabinets and roof lining were stripped out. That's not happening as I can trace any wiring, and all through bolts will be hidden in cabinets except the rear ones. Does anyone on this site have a rack on this particular roof, and if so where did you get it? Also, does anyone know where to purchase the engine compartment vents pictured below? Thanks for any assistance.
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Old 02-02-2018, 08:55 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by brushogger View Post
We have a 2004 SMB EB. It was built in Indiana at SMB North. The roof was made by a company called Viking, which has been out of business for a few years. At the rear, its a bit more square than the Voyager tops made by Fiberine. We're wanting an aluminum roof rack like the ones made by Aluminess. I contacted them, but they said they would only build one if all the upper cabinets and roof lining were stripped out. That's not happening as I can trace any wiring, and all through bolts will be hidden in cabinets except the rear ones. Does anyone on this site have a rack on this particular roof, and if so where did you get it? Also, does anyone know where to purchase the engine compartment vents pictured below? Thanks for any assistance.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...3000/overview/
http://www.streetpros.com/product_in..._-_(Pair).html
An installation thread here: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tall-5644.html
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:28 PM   #3
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What about a U-Joint roof rack?
Ujointoffroad


You could order it with extra feet, and use Click-bond studs to avoid having to through-bolt.
:: Click Bond, Inc. :: Studs & Standoffs
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:13 PM   #4
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Great ideas guys!!! Thanks so much. I need to do some adhesive strengths to decide which to go with on the studs. My roof is painted over gel coat. I wonder if the paint would need to be removed at the adhesive points for maximum strength. Iíd really hate for it to break loose. I know modern industrial adhesives are amazing.
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Old 02-03-2018, 10:39 PM   #5
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Yeah, you'd want to sand off the paint, down to the gelcoat, which needs to be scuffed up for a good bond anyways. You can mask around where the stud will mount, to localize the sanding. Or use a dremmel. Either way, it's not too hard to localize the work so it's not noticeable when it's all done.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:50 PM   #6
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Iíve been watching some pretty impressive demo videos of 3m VHB tape. Do any of you guys have experience with it, and would it be a good solution for mounting the clickbond studs to the roof.
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:30 PM   #7
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One downside of the VHB tapes is they soften under heat. Epoxies will too, but it takes WAY more heat. Plus, the epoxy bonds will be stronger, and won't be damaged by solvents (unlikely on a roof, but you never know...)

Plus, Click-Bond includes a temporary mounting fixture (hence, the "click) which ensures just the right amount of stand-off from the surface. So using tape would kind of defeat the purpose of their system. FWIW - they sell small quantity epoxies. Comes in ketchup pouches for doing just a few. Although for a roof rack, one of the small cartridges would probably be about right.
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:35 PM   #8
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Thanks Carringb. I think thatís the way Iíll go. Iíve found a local fabricator that is building my bumpers and sliders. Heís willing to build a rack, but is still experimenting with bending aluminum tubing. He said heíll let me know when heís confident with it. His other fab work Iíve seen is great!
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:57 AM   #9
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Do not use 3M VHB for a roof rack. VHB is great for intermittent loads or light loads but cannot be relied upon for heavy or permanent loads. Sure, the Walt Disney Concert Hall uses VHB to attach its stainless steel facade, but I'm guessing the entire backside of each panel is literally covered with VHB to stay below the 3 psi maximum stress 3M recommends for such an application.

VHB is a pressure sensitive adhesive that wets out the surface it's applied to when you press it on during installation. Over the next 24 hours, without any stress in the joint, the wetting continues due to creep until the bond reaches maximum strength. When you apply a heavy load and leave it there long term, the same process reverses, meaning the joint falls apart in a matter of hours or days depending on temperature.

The Click Bond fasteners use a broad, thin base to maximize surface area and minimize peel forces. Think about how you usually remove tape or glue -- you get a wedge under a corner and start prying, then peel it off the rest of the way. Adhesives suck at resisting peeling. The stud being positioned in the middle, with a broad flexible base, means forces at the stud cannot effectively peel the fastener at the periphery.

A Click Bond fastener with epoxy (typically around 3000 psi shear strength) and a base area of say, 1 square inch, can support 3000 pounds.

Take that same Click Bond fastener and use VHB instead of epoxy, and you can only safely support 3 pounds.
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:48 PM   #10
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What about the faux gutter mounts from Thule?
I have them, while not very elegant they have been 100% solid over 3 years. (I made a large backing plate for the inside)
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