Originally Posted by j.whitbread
How did the disconnects work out?
Sorry should have replied here sooner. Had a thread going at the other expo sportsmobile forum and kinda forgot about this thread.
To put it succinctly, they didn't. The manufacturer of the ones for the front swaybar basically told me they wouldn't work. I found some from warrior products which the manufacturer thought would work good but the front sway bar on my van at least was too thick for the nut to even engage one thread.
However, it turns out that the experiment was not without it's benefits. When I disconnected the front sway bar to try and put the warrior disconnects on it turned out to be really easy to disconnect. By no means instant but really easy.
The rears were really easy as well. Harder to reconnect though. I found a way of using my hi-lift to raise one side to get the bolt lined up that helped. Since then I discovered that I can use the air bags that I have to make lining up the rear sway bar link with the hole in the frame even easier.
Here is the procedure I used for disconnecting the front sway bar:
Turn the wheel to the right and take off the nuts on the right side.
Turn the wheel to the left and take off only the top nut on that side.
Lift up on the sway bar and remove the right side link.
Reconnect the left side link to hold the bar in place and go! Turning
the wheel makes it really easy to access the sway bar link.
Reconnecting is really easy also. Just reverse the above.
The rear is even easier.
I simply removed the nut from the bolt going through the sway bar end.
It is then easy to tell which way the sway bar is torqued and holding onto the bolt.
I can then inflate the correct air bag to loosen the torque and remove the bolt. If you don't have air-bags then if the sway bar is torqued down then put the bottle jack under the end of it and just give it a little lift until the bolt pops out easily. If it is the other way then use a high lift or the bottle jack on support blocks to lift the frame up until the bolt pulls out easily.
I am going to make a strap to hold the rear link up to the frame so that I don't have to disconnect the top side also.
Simply reverse the procedure to reattach.
So simple that I have decided that the disconnects are really not needed. Since I will probably be disconnecting them only before and after a multi-hour drive the 3-5 minutes needed to perform the whole procedure is really no big deal.