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Old 04-26-2024, 09:15 PM   #1
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Quigley 5.4 plug spitter!

So I love my SWB 2003 Quigley. It is an amazing truck and has been an awesome ski, camping, driver. It just turned 160k and has shot out its 3rd spark plug. After the first plug I had the motor pulled and all the plug holes were inserted with the Cal Van kit. I thought I had this issue taken care of for good and it cost me 5k. Well I’ve lost two more post fix and am tired of this bs. I just got a quote for a Jasper 5.4 installed for 7800 with new rad, hoses etc. I am a big fan of body on frame and rain gutters. So I want to keep the truck and think this is the best way to go. The engine runs great otherwise.

Any advice from those who have had a similar dilemma?

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Old 04-27-2024, 10:22 AM   #2
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Sorry you had to go through that so many times already! Considering you blew a plug after the kits was installed, they likely weren’t done right, and your best bet know almost certainly is new heads or a full motor. And with labor for pulling the heads, a motor is barely any more expensive, so I think you’re on the right track.
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Old 04-27-2024, 10:33 AM   #3
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Yeah thanks carringb, the peace of mind is worth a lot with the new motor. Losing another plug while out on a trip or in the mountains would not be fun.

Hoping I can get some feedback on Jasper engines as well?
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Old 04-27-2024, 10:40 AM   #4
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Go Godzilla!
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Old 04-27-2024, 11:25 AM   #5
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Is it possible to put a new Godzilla 7.3 gasser in a 2008 E350? And, would you do the tranny at the same time? Asking for a friend, ha. Just wish Ford would start making those Econoline vehicles again.
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Old 04-27-2024, 12:18 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Steve_382 View Post
Is it possible to put a new Godzilla 7.3 gasser in a 2008 E350? And, would you do the tranny at the same time? Asking for a friend, ha. Just wish Ford would start making those Econoline vehicles again.
This should capture your interest:
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...lla-31593.html
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Old 04-27-2024, 02:08 PM   #7
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The Cal-van Insert Kit for 2V is a very robust solution for fixing blown plugs. I would say the only way it would not work is if the head was cracked badly in the combustion chamber around the plug hole.

This is not just my experience which is rather limited (i have done 4 inserts total on a 2002 E-250 5.4L and a 1997 E-150 5.4L).

In this video is the primary authority on Ford Triton sparkplug thread repair using Cal-Van 2V inserts. But even Ron Williams has an error in his primary video.


Cal-van Comparison with inferior inserts


Last update on calvan inserts


Primary install video (Do Not use the circlip when reaming. Only use it when cutting threads with the tap. It needs to go all the way through. )

If you use the circlip with the ream, the ream will fall short of going all the way in. The tap will then be much harder to turn when cutting new threads because the hole is too small (i.e. it was not fully reamed). And for a bonus the end of the spark plug hole will break off in to the cylinder.




Other than this I would upgrade from red locktite to ESKONKE green R680.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

I discovered a time sert like in the video above that was breaking out through the bottom of the spark plug flattening my electrode strap. It has to come out (a week later)

I was able to get the insert out without breaking the bond, but then used a map-gas torch to heat the bond and get the threads off.

You should only use Motocraft spark plugs, and also torque a little tighter than the factory spec. I have done 20 ft-lbs and another YouTube channel uses 25 ft-lbs.

I also make sure the sparkplug threads every clean using carb cleaner and hand screwing the plug into the hole several times.

If you have an insert installed, it should be clean with the insert installed on the plug. So when you are torquing to are tighten the steel insert OD into the head and the steel spark plug into the insert ID.

Other than using the proper spark plug, and proper torque and keeping it clean, I don't know how a Cal Van insert can fail other than it got cross threaded into the whole.

The i9mnserts are put in with JB weld and copyright z(green R-680 in my case) and I allow the insert after torquing to cure overnight a full 24 hours. Then I start the engine up and let it idle to allow the JB weld and R-680 to cure under relatively low pressures.

If someone was doing all the cylinders at once, they would need to ream and cut all the plug threads at once so they could install the inserts without turning over the engine (potentially disturbing the still liquid epoxy and retaining compounds). If they did not do this then it might have compromised the insert install.
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Old 04-27-2024, 02:43 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Treebeard View Post
Yeah thanks carringb, the peace of mind is worth a lot with the new motor. Losing another plug while out on a trip or in the mountains would not be fun.

Hoping I can get some feedback on Jasper engines as well?
Sorry to hear about this as well. Although a GM, at about 168k miles, I got a ticking noise, MAP code, and misfire on the interstate on a trip. Most likely valve related. With the labor to address I decided to go reman and Jasper was it.

I only have about 10k miles, but so far no issues. I discussed the various engine options with my mechanic and we went with Jasper in part due to the warranty.
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Old 04-27-2024, 05:38 PM   #9
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I put a Jasper 5.4l in a 2003 that had a bottom end bearing come apart.

It was solid. Forum member Larrie bought that van and is still driving it. He's never mentioned any engine trouble.
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Old 04-27-2024, 10:11 PM   #10
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As the proud owner of one of 86Scotty’s vans I can say that there has been no issues with the Jasper engine that he had installed. We did have to epoxy in a coil pack insert and also had a minor water leak. The engine currently has 75,000 miles on at.
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