Cracks in the old van

geoffff · 04-01-2020, 08:14 PM

I finally got a friend to weld up all those body cracks I had where the awning used to attach. But I've discovered some alarming new cracks.

This first crack worries me the most. It is visible inside the front passenger-side wheel well. It's about 2" long, in that rectangular-tubular section of the body right where it meets the frame-attachment bushing (or whatever it's called). I suspect this is why I now hear ominous creaking/groaning sounds whenever the front end flexes:

I also see another crack (a bit smaller) in the same wheel well - in front of where the shock attaches. Doesn't seem as important.

Finding these cracks made me decide to cut my Baja trip last month short.

Then my new radiator (1-year-old) cracked and started leaking just like the old one did last year while I was in Baja. I strongly suspect this is from the front end flexing more than it should. The water seems to be coming out of the black plastic "tank" crimped onto the bottom of the radiator.

A mechanic friend tells me the van may not have been designed to endure the amount of flexing my 4x4 gets exposed to.

Any of you also seeing cracks in the body of your 4x4 Fords?

I fear my old van may be nearing the end of its usable life...

-- Geoff

geoffff · 04-01-2020, 08:22 PM

more pics

Lilnuts2 · 04-01-2020, 08:34 PM

Wow! how many miles ya got on it? more importantly how many off road miles.

larrie · 04-01-2020, 09:59 PM

Time to check my frame.

TomsBeast · 04-02-2020, 07:31 AM

Those all look like sheetmetal body cracks.

I built and drove a V8 Vega in highschool, I'm familiar... LOL!

I typically won't simply weld over a crack... the metal is fatigued and work hardened, is no longer malleable, like it should be. A weld over the top of a crack usually just cracks again.

But there's a top notch repair :-)

I usually drill a tiny hole at each end of the crack, to keep the crack from 'running' any further. Then make a patch panel that I either rivet or weld over the cracked area, at least 1" of overlap in all directions, that helps redistribute the load around the crack, instead of through it.

REF · 04-02-2020, 07:40 AM

Zoinks!!
I’m no frame or welding expert by any means, but that’s not good. I’d want to consult with a good body shop to see what it would take to repair before it gets worse and certainly before your next outing to Baja. They might be able to weld in a plate, but seeing how your body mount bushing is right there it might not be possible without lifting the body or dropping the frame.
Just curious, I don’t recall what 4X4 setup you have, quigley or early SMB with front leaf? Stock swaybar? Disconnects?
....sheetmetal? The crack that the frame bushing is under? The other one maybe yes, at the pinch seam

carringb · 04-02-2020, 09:53 AM

This probably has to with having the poptop, combined with the offroad flexing.

I wouldn't write it off just yet. And yes, you can weld it. You'd want to drill the ends of each crack, and plate over it.

The good news is, since E-series are body-on-frame, so some body cracking isn't the end of the world. If you have similar cracks on a Sprinter or Transit, then it would be game-over.

It looks like you have a front hitch receiver? If yes, I'm surprised that isn't stiffening up the front enough to prevent the radiator leaks. Do you remember what brand radiator that is? Regardless, I think all leaf-spring conversion would benefit from U-Joint's front crossmember, since leaf spring do load the frame in ways not exactly designed for.

Orv · 04-08-2020, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

I usually drill a tiny hole at each end of the crack, to keep the crack from 'running' any further. Then make a patch panel that I either rivet or weld over the cracked area, at least 1" of overlap in all directions, that helps redistribute the load around the crack, instead of through it.

I like this -- if it's good enough for airplanes it's good enough for a van.

I'd be a lot more worried if these were in the frame.

geoffff · 04-09-2020, 11:52 AM

Thanks, everyone. Drilling the ends of the cracks is a good tip. Yes I'll get it all fixed up once more after we're on the other side of this stuck-at-home time. And post a full report!

-- Geoff

Vanimal · 04-10-2020, 08:27 PM

Ditto what Tomsbeast and Carringb said.
Pull the body bolt so you can pull the body rubber puck out (for welding purposes). If it is too hard use a jack to take the load off the frame. Once you do that plate it or even wrap it like c channel. Get square thin wall tubing and cut it to match what you need or at least L shape the patch. Jeep Cherokee unibodies are plated all the time. Make sure if you put a big enough piece you plug weld this really helps spread the stress over a bigger area not just the end welds.