V10 Engine Heat Solution - Improvement ?

[doublevan2]

Greetings --

So has anyone dealt with solving engine heat from their engine compartment permeating thru the cabin air vents and negating ambient/cooler outside air ? Rather than run the AC/StarCool systems ?

Hood louvers ? Engine compartment 12 volt exhaust fans ? How did you solve the problem ? I'd be interested in photos - details, etc. Thanks !

[86Scotty]

Are you meaning with the air selector on VENT? This is the only selection on a Ford van other than OFF that will allow fresh air in. Every other setting runs the compressor.
FLOOR might not, I can't remember, but that's primarily used by folks for heat rather than cooling.

Unless it's less than 60 or so outside you're gonna get hot air through the vents unless you have the AC on. Just run it, it doesn't change your efficiency/MPG's in a V10, or most modern cars for that matter.

And you will always get hot air through the vents after you've been still for any amount of time (I mean with AC off). It takes awhile for the hot air coming through the ventilation system to cool down after you get moving.

[arctictraveller]

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...nts-13588.html

[REDOVAL]

I went through this same issue with my v10 rig and noticed some interesting things (also noted in the linked post above). The evaporator box seal to the top of the firewall had deteriorated allowing ambient engine heat to leak into the system. This is quite difficult to repair properly but I tested a makeshift seal using a rag around the joint and I did notice a difference. I do also run the Max AC kit I sell through Vantage Optics but the way they are sent the kit only operates the cutoff valve in Max AC mode and makes a big difference for cooling optimization. This isn't a post to push that product but it does work.

Scott Thompson
Vantage Optics
www.vantageoptics.com

[carringb]

^Same for me as Redoval!

I’m getting hotter than ambient temps now that the cowling gasket is completely shot. It’s just sucking in air from the engine compartment.

[doublevan2]

Hi Scott - so if using the Max AC Kit - understand it operates on Max AC setting only - correct ? BUT - one can operate the fan speed to lower the flow of Max AC output - correct ?

[REDOVAL]

Originally Posted by doublevan2

Hi Scott - so if using the Max AC Kit - understand it operates on Max AC setting only - correct ? BUT - one can operate the fan speed to lower the flow of Max AC output - correct ?

Yes, all fan speeds function as normal, but there is no ability to blend in some heat when in max mode as there is no coolant flowing through the heater core with the valve closed.

Scott

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Are you meaning with the air selector on VENT? This is the only selection on a Ford van other than OFF that will allow fresh air in.

I have been reviewing my 1997, 2000, and 2011 FSMs and in all three cases, the outside air flap always admits fresh air except when it closes (recirculates) for MAX A/C and in OFF switch positions.

You can refer to:
1997 412-00-06 (also the Electrical and Vacuum diagrams 54-6 which is similar to JWA's thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-controls.html )
2000 412-00-14
2011 412-00-9

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Unless it's less than 60 or so outside you're gonna get hot air through the vents unless you have the AC on. Just run it, it doesn't change your efficiency/MPG's in a V10, or most modern cars for that matter.

And you will always get hot air through the vents after you've been still for any amount of time (I mean with AC off). It takes awhile for the hot air coming through the ventilation system to cool down after you get moving.

If this is the case for properly operating the Climate control system with the Heat blend to COOL is that there is too much heat from the Heater Core getting into the mix even with the Temperature Blend Door blocking as much heat as possible.

At the time (I bought a 1997 5.4L RB E-350 new in 1997) I never really figured out what all the switches meant as to the particular door/flap functions but I never noticed any excessive heat coming for example from VENT. Certainly nothing like what has been described about hot air always coming out of the vents. I used to live on the coast in Santa Barbara and I never ran the AC and the temp is usually in the 70-80's all year.

JWA also has implied that there should not be any issues with hot air from vents when everything is working correctly. I generally agree (certainly my experience for a 5.4L) except there seems to be too much heat in the V-10's and especially the diesel for the blend door to not block enough engine heat.

[posplayr]

I studied what was available online about both the MAX AC and the COLD RUSH.

https://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassi...4-200373l.aspx

https://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassi...4-200373l.aspx


This is an install for a MAX AC on an older Ford 7.3 Truck. The installation is for a vacuum solenoid-controlled heater coolant flap valve. The vacuum control is the same (WHITE) vacuum signal as the recirculation air door.

When in MAX A/C (with recirculation) then also Close off the coolant to the heater core.

I must note that this will not affect any kind of NON A/C operation such as VENT. If everything is working in the Climate Control System, then you are going to be getting full coolant flow all the time except when you are in MAX A/C and the Recirculation kicks in (with a VACUUM Signal).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V41m_VmvUBw

I people are too hot with a V10/7.3 in VENT mode then there is too much heat entering the dash through the heater core.

At this point, the COLD RUSH can be added to override the signal to the Coolant valve Solenoid so that the heater core floor can be blocked on demand.

At this point how well this works will be largely up to the operator of the switch to control the coolant flow.

If the cab is still too hot it is probably air leaking in from the dog house or other points of entry.

I should mention that there is a simple solution that is even better. This is a mechanical control valve. While this can also be controlled on demand, it can also be set to any opening positon fo the flap valve.

This is what I have used to block flow to a rear AC/heater system in my 1997 E-350.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only thing that is missing in the dash controls is an independent control of Recirculation. To do this would be fairly simple by adding a vacuum solenoid valve to override the normally OUTSIDE air path with a vacuum signal to the OUTSIDE/RECIRCULATE vacuum motor.

Alternatively, if you find yourself passing a road-kill skunk or a dusty section of road, you just turn your Climate Control to OFF and the outside door will close without any modifications required.

[posplayr]

NOTE: I have revised the Bypass chart to show using Sol 2 with BLUE vacuum control line for control.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post327908

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Here is another twist to the Coolant control valve. Here is a video showing and installing what amounts to essentially the MAX AC kit on a FORD F-150 truck. The main difference is the control valve in a 4-port bypass flow control device.

he identifies this part (available as a Motorcraft F87Z-18495-AA YG350 )

The Amazon link is for a cheaper knockoff. He uses the same WHITE vacuum control signal to control the outside air flap.

https://amzn.to/3yTeMNi

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=411YciKBEpQ

This brings up a question; is it possible to control both the rear AC/Heater and the Dash heater core with this signal device?

The figure below doesn't use a manual valve and only implements a MAX AC recirculation) bypass. Another vacuum solenoid could be added to fully control the BYPASS. It would then have the same number of devices at the MAX AC/ MAX COOL combination.

The difference is there is likely to be less heat in the two heater cores both a bypass and probably improved cooling through the engine block as there is no coolant path restriction.

If you plan to add a YG350 valve, you will probably need some extra heater hose. I would pull off the stock hoses (even if you have to cut some off at the feed pipes), This will keep the original hose as long as possible to aid in routing the lines to the valve . Then you would use short sections of the new hose to go the block feed pipes.


If you want to add what amounts to a recirculation button to control the outside air flap valve, then these are available.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...7GU6THUE&psc=1