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Old 11-11-2023, 03:58 PM   #1
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Texas
Posts: 142
Upgrading to Lifepo4 and solar. Battery box removal.

So my van came equipped with a battery isolator and it had a lead acid starter battery mounted in back, not even a deep cycle battery. (seriously?!)

I have removed the battery isolator, run the line to the starter battery to run to the back, and installed my DC to DC charger / MPPT charge controller, disconnected the 110v converter as it is not Lithium compatible, and all I have left is to route the signal wire for the DC to DC charger to a switched accessory fuse, and install the battery bank. (And secure the DC to DC charger / charge controller). And install the battery bank of 2 200 amp hour Chins Lifepo4 batteries.

To accomplish this I need the original battery box gone.

I see no fasteners anywhere on this setup.

So how do I get this battery box gone, it is just glued to the floor?

The view under the cabinet and yes I know it is messy in there right now. I will tidy up once everything is in place...

The view from underneath. Will likely use this hole to route the wire, need a sufficient grommet to keep water out though... I assume this was a vent / drain for the battery box...

I don't care if prying it out destroys the battery box, I just don't want to hurt the floor of the van or anything else like that...

FWIW, the location the converter is living in right now, well I am removing that converter and have no intent on installing a new one, so the DC to DC charger / MPPT charge controller will live there. I MAY just use a Lifepo4 compatible 110v charger at some point, but want to try alternator and solar for now...

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Old 11-19-2023, 11:41 AM   #2
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Bishop, CA
Posts: 52

The approach that comes first to my mind would be applying a heat gun to the inside floor of the battery box to soften either the plastic of the box itself, or possibly soften the adhesive that's gluing it to the floor, and then gently pry up around the bottom edges of the box with your choice of "appropriate" tool. (A Vaughan Superbar or stiff putty knife come to mind . . .)

Obviously, some adhesives like RTV silicone won't soften (much), but it's an approach that might avoid significant floor damage (YMMV).
"Silver Kitten": 2002 E-350 7.3 RB-50 SMB Quigley 4x4, Agile RIP-kit
"My Metal Mistress": 1982 Cessna T182 - "Sleeps 0, but leaps tall mountains in a single bound."
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Old 11-19-2023, 12:22 PM   #3
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Join Date: Sep 2023
Posts: 4
I’m doing the same thing but keeping the battery box. The battery manufacturer (LiTime) recommends enclosing lithium batteries in a fire resistant container.

I’ll plug the vent holes though.

Also plan on keeping the old rectifier and running it to the new dc-charger. We’ll have a switch to throw between the alternator and shore power.

We’re keeping the isolators to prevent backfeed.

Good luck with your build
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Old 11-20-2023, 10:16 AM   #4
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Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Texas
Posts: 142
This is entirely my fault. I forgot to update you folks here. So I went out to the van, and was simply poking around when I grabbed the battery box and kind of gently twisted, I was looking to see if I saw any deformation that might clue me into hidden fastners, when the box just popped off. Apparently whatever adhesive they used in 1993 was done. So the upgrade there is done and working. Other loose ends to take care of still.
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