adding solar panels

[AnnB]

hi all, I'm looking to add solar panels to my 2006, E350 pop-up penthouse sportsmobile, for all the usual reasons. But i'm wondering about the consequences of adding weight to the top? I use a ratcheting cargo bar to raise the penthouse, but could also use a scissor jack (both terrific ideas from other forums here!) (I'm also going to ask the trailer place to look at the spring system, as suggested previously too). Anyone have any concerns to bring to my attention? I'm thinking 200W right now, and the Renogy system says the panels are 14.1 lbs / 6.4 kg each, plus the frame of course. I also wonder about the flexible panels - although they don't look very good for permanent attaching. (I also have portable solar panels and a Jackery that i use, but you can't just plug that in and go for a hike....) Thanks!



(i originally posted this in the wrong forum - sorry about that! and ignore it)

[boywonder]

AnnB: The Renogy 100W panels are a great choice. Flexible panels in the past have been problematic; I know they've improved in recent years but I've never played with any.

Adding another 28 lbs + mounting hardware is going to make your roof even harder to raise......it sounds like you need your springs adjusted. That's the first thing to deal with..assuming that you roof is difficult to raise but comes down hard at the end of it's travel.

Where are you located?

[AnnB]

thanks boywonder! and yeah, i'm going to dig out your prior posts about the springs too! but i am loving the ratcheting cargo bar - which is super easy too; it raises it a few inches and then the mechanism takes over and it goes up easily. I don't think i'm so worried about raising the penthouse as whether adding weight will do anything to the springs / hardware that keep it up etc? (i assume not, since i'm not the first to add solar to the top - but making sure...). It comes down fine; i hang off the handles (i'm short) and pull it easily, and it's fairly controlled the whole way (that is, it doesn't slam down and clunk me). I'm really far from you, unfortunately -- in the Canadian maritime provinces...

[boywonder]

Adding 28 lbs of panels will likely benefit from one or two link removals from the extension spring chains, and shimming the helper springs will help a lot for those first few inches of lift.


Shimming/putting blocks behind the helper springs is really really easy and safe and can make a big difference. When the roof is up the springs are just laying in the channels doing nothing.


If you want to try this you just need a phillips screwdriver.

• pop the top
• detach the upholstery behind the crossbars at the rear of the van by unscrewing the screws holding the upholstery down and fold the upholstery out of the way exposing the helper springs and their cover plates.
• you will see the helper springs laying in the channel unloaded, mostly covered by a black metal plate. Grab one and pull it out from under the plate, the spring is either going to be about 1 foot long or 2 feet long.
• Cut a hardwood 2" x 2" block from practically anything and slide it under the plate in the channel then re-install the helper spring. The block pushes the spring 2" forward.
• Pull the roof down and push it back a few times up to see the fruits of your labor. You can make longer blocks for additional spring preload but at some point it will be too much..that will be obvious. From memory, the end of the helper springs need to be 5-6 inches or so from the rear crossbar pivot to be close to their happy place (at least 24" long springs).

This mod is simple safe and easy. Fabricating a spacer will likely be your biggest challenge.

[AnnB]

that sounds really do-able! thank you... going to try this!