Layout for extended touring, not off-roading -- suggestions?

[GreyDawg]

LeadDoggy --

Yes, your excellent write up of your home made transformer bed is the basis for my design, though I have removed the floor brackets and will use the bolt holes and angle irons to secure the uprights.

Reflectix on the windows is a definite possibility. The other approach I've contemplated is using rigid styrofoam in the bottom third of the window, making a headboard and footboard of sorts. I'm also contemplating insulated window coverings (curtains or roman shades): fabric + Insul-Brite + blackout cloth.

I'd like to know more about door-mounted bike racks. Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks!

[LeadDoggy]

Originally Posted by GreyDawg

LeadDoggy --

I'd like to know more about door-mounted bike racks. Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks!

My thinking of the door mounted bike rack comes from some pictures I have seen of other's bike racks mounted to their Baja boxes from Aluminess. Don't know where you are packing your spare tire, but maybe a modified tire carrier on the leftside door.

[zippy]

Originally Posted by GreyDawg

...........
Maybe I'm not being creative enough, but as I look at this aisle layout, it seems very inefficient. ...................

Yep, you need a design that goes across the back door. Since you shorter a higher bunk with storage under is good. Outdoor stuff could go in the back part of that space and be accessible from the back doors. A wider bunk may be more comfortable without taking up any real space. Don't forget about visitors.

[stkshooter]

Not trying to high jack your thread but wanted to chime in here since you are not focused on off road.

I have been researching van ideas for years and decided not to build anything perm in mine because I use it for many things. If I were to install a bed, it would be high enough for max storage under it. You want to keep the storage weight low. I would design a pull out platform for guest that was supported on other side by storage but when only 1 person was sleeping the bed would be from front to rear on one side only. I currently use plastic drawers from wal mart strapped to side with microwave on top and sleep on floor myself. When I wake the sleeping bag/pad are rolled up to form a chair. This gives me plenty of floor space to get dressed, etc. If there were 3+ people using the area I would buy a rv trailer for those with kids asking about using a van. Attempting to floorplan a cargo van as if it's an RV locks you into using the vehicle for one purpose only, when it could be used for so much more if needed. I use hitch cargo racks to carry all my cooking/coolers, etc. I use the EZ up shade and table for cooking area. When in transit I break EZ up shade and camp down and load back in van/cargo racks.Van is for sleeping / hanging out / restroom without all the mess inside. I use 5-6 gal. portable water tanks because they are easier. If I need to refill them I can carry them to source. If you want running water buy a $30 12 volt pump with hand wand like shower head and drop the filter end into 5 gal. container. I've tried the 50 gal water tank and although it was nice, I still used the 5 gal. containers outside. when the $150 water pump stopped working I realized it was not as important as once thought because I could unload 250 lb. of water with the containers vs it going with me off road. Keeping all flowing water and cooking outside is much easier/cleaner in many cases. You can't stock a little fridge with enough of everything for long term outings which brings you back to coolers. Put a cargo rack on the vehicle and keep the coolers there out of your way and portable. People try to stuff too much into the van when you have many other options. Trailers are like pulling an anchor in sand/mud but if your not 4X4 or can drop it at camp and then hit the trails they are your best option to carry all your stuff if you can keep the trailer 5' wide and lower than your roof or it will kill your fuel mpg. I get 19 mpg (small v8) with my 2wd van loaded down but if I put 6x10 enclosed trl. behind it, that drops to 10-11 mpg. So there are many things to consider. Yes, a diesel would do better but for the price you pay up front, your still paying. Check out my picture gallery to see cargo racks. You would be surprised where I have been in that low rider. 4X4 is nice but I'm just as comfortable 95% of the time with my 2wd going down dirt roads and if you look at 95% of the pic. you see of sportmobiles that is all they are doing.

I would LOVE to have a big 4X4 diesel van/camper loaded with everything but I'll have to stick with my $15k conversion van. Based on the people posting pictures of their project that fizzled out before it was finished, I'm assuming many others realized making a van into a RV type camper is not what they expected unless they sleep alone. Just not enough floor space.

My van is loaded down when I go camping/hunting with just my stuff. There is no way I could pack the old ladies/kids things for a week too.

PS: Once you load the van down and need helper springs to carry everything. Add helper airbags to front / rear and vehicle will ride better than stock.

below is a link to more ideas

http://cheaprvliving.com/howtoconvertavan.html

http://www.vandwellers.org/index.html


Good Luck
Jon

[mjeffrey]

Originally Posted by GreyDawg

Thinking back to the first layout: I have not pulled off the factory wall trim. Does anyone know how much space I could gain if I pulled off the lower wall trim (leaving the trim around the windows intact), added insulation, and covered with masonite?

I know this is an old question, from November, but anyway - if you pull off the factory trim, insulate, and cover with your own panels, you can have a 72" bed. That's what I did with mine.

Cheers,
Mike.

[GreyDawg]

Hi all --

I'm terribly behind in posting about my build -- here's the Cliff-notes version, but I will post some pictures later.

I made the cross-wise bunk at window height with storage underneath. With reflectix in the windows and a down comforter, I was snug during freezing nights (low 30s, high 20s). The length is fine. (This is one of the few times I've been glad to be just 5'7". Not sure how glad I'll be when I put my Thule cargo box on the Yakima roof rack ).

That said, I do regret not pulling off the interior trim, insulating, and either reinstalling the factory lower trim panels or putting in my own trim panels: the insulation would be nice. Since my components are bolted to the floor (the bunk structure uses the bolt holes from the 3rd row of seats) I might just take on the insulation project next summer. Of course, I have to be confident that I can remove the panels and reinstall them...without breaking any of the little tabby thingies.

The desk is finished, and I'm quite pleased with it. The kitchen box, facing out the side door is done (idea stolen from LenS). It's the kitchen box where I learned my lesson about wood warping when it's used in a van -- the chopping board top better in theory than in practice. Back to the drawing board on that.

So far the only miscalculation -- uh, redesign -- has been where to carry the ice-chest. It won't go between the kitchen box and bunk as originally planned: after things were tweaked to fit, there isn't quite the space I need. I could go with a smaller ice-chest, but I want a Coleman with the 5-6 day ice claim, and those are by definition large (I have the 70 quart. I've read of the 50-something quart, but can't find it locally). I need an ice chest big enough to hold a block or two of ice, so I can run several days. I prefer the Coleman because of the drain design -- I won't have to lift it to drain it.

Proper window coverings -- curtains or roman shades -- are next. Tomorrow I will go to a plastics company and check out plexiglass rods to use as curtain rods. Then I want to figure out a bike+storage cargo-hitch setup, like LenS has. (Heck, I'd just plain like to swipe LenS' van...)

I am hoping to get this all done in time for two weeks in Moab/Canyonlands/etc. in the latter part of April. Yeah!

I promise pictures will come.

[GreyDawg]

Originally Posted by LeadDoggy

As for you other problem of bikes on the back and using the "garage" area under the bed, you could mount the bikes on the left side door in a verticle position and then have access to the rightside door for quick access to stuff under the bed.......

Now that I'm re-reading this thread, I'm reminded to ask: does anyone have suggestions for vertical door mounts for bikes? One road bike, one mountain bike.

Thanks!

[LeadDoggy]

Originally Posted by GreyDawg

Now that I'm re-reading this thread, I'm reminded to ask: does anyone have suggestions for vertical door mounts for bikes? One road bike, one mountain bike.

Thanks!

Get some of those rails with fork mounts that you see on the roof of vehicles and then mount them to a ladder type system that attaches to the door. Just an idea.....

[stkshooter]

This is the largest cargo rack / hitch carrier I could find at a good price when researching. http://www.etrailer.com/pc-CC2~63153.htm

I then had a welding shop make a bracket to attach a reg. bike rack to rear side of cargo rack. This provided room for bikes without blocking cargo rack storage area. If you mount bikes on rear doors you will loose 1/2 your cargo rack storage. Remember some states require lights on rear and sides once you exceed 4 ft. past rear of vehicle. Rack is rated at 500 lb. I have driven many dirt roads with 400+ lb. with no problem.

You can install a front receiver and use cargo rack on front too. Some states only allow 2' forward of vehicle so this rack would be too big if driving in those states but you can get the standard racks and stay under 2'.

Cargo racks front and rear loaded to the max have not effected my mpg more than .05 depending how they are loaded.

PS: Be careful putting cargo on roof. It can kill your mpg.

[Edie]

Hi Grey Dawg,

We've had two 54 qt. Coleman steel belted coolers (ice chests) since 1980. They're very sturdy, with a top we can stand on, so we use it also as a step to get to the PH bed.

We use some dry ice underneath the block of ice, and find we can go 7 days out in the boonies.....makes a huge difference! To be sure, this is usually at higher altitudes (cool at night)....but still in the summer. We also take 2 to 3 frozen home made soups or whatever, to put in the cooler, which acts like ice, also. We eat that at about 3-4 days out. We also have the Norcold 3 CF installed in our van. We find it helps the cooling not to not drain the water out of the cooler until the last gasp.

Hopes this helps...

Edie