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09-13-2019, 04:21 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Arlington Va
Posts: 89
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Econoline 6.0 injector replacement cost
Just curious, what prices people have paid or estimates received for replacement of 1 or all injectors?
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06 E-350 EB 6.0 Suckless Quigley (Bulletproofed with RIP)
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09-13-2019, 09:23 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 1,841
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I had all eight injectors replaced. On the plus side of $4K.
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09-13-2019, 10:25 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,295
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All 8 injectors + BPD FICM for around $6k. Not inexpensive!
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Phil
- 2005 EB50 6.0PSD - SMB 4x4
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09-14-2019, 05:12 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Arlington Va
Posts: 89
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thanks for the info, my injectors are good for now. But Im at the point where I need to decide to keep my van and put some money into it for other repairs or write it off and get a 7.3 van. Im trying to price out all the potential major repairs that are common with the 6.0.
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06 E-350 EB 6.0 Suckless Quigley (Bulletproofed with RIP)
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09-14-2019, 10:01 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,304
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If I remember right, book time is about 8 hours. The catch is, it's very unlikely you won't find other work needed when you start pulling things apart. Good reman injectors are about $220 online, but shop price to you will be more than that (unless you purchase them yourself and forgo any shop warranty on them). I'd pass on the cheap foreign remans.
That said.... I'm not sure going to an older 7.3L will necessarily save you $ over time. Sure, the motor itself is more reliable, but everything else around will likely need attention, since the newest 7.3L's will now be coming up on 17 years old! Stuff like fuel lines, o-rings, and even injectors and injector harnesses are likely to problem areas just from age. And now that there's fewer of them on the road, part such as injectors now cost more than they do fo the 6.0. Lastly... you'd be giving up a superior transmission.
Now if you are thinking about doing the swap to reduce the chances of being stuck in the wilderness, this is valid. There's definitely less issues with the 7.3L that will leave you F.O.R.D (besides the CPS - carry a spare!) vs the 6.0, and the 7.3L can usually be limped back to civilization even when things aren't all working.
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2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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09-14-2019, 10:21 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Arlington Va
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb
The catch is, it's very unlikely you won't find other work needed when you start pulling things apart.
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What other repairs are you thinking? EGR cooler
It almost seems like when the injectors are due for replacing to go all in and buy a recon long block(bullet proofed of course.
__________________
06 E-350 EB 6.0 Suckless Quigley (Bulletproofed with RIP)
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09-14-2019, 10:56 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,304
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I'd start by scoping the engine oil cooler. If the plates are plugged at all, I'd change both that and the EGR cooler (since restricted coolant flow is what makes the EGR cooler run hot and fatigue). By now, your HPOP sump screen is likely plugged with gunk. If it hasn't blown out already.
There's a possibility you'd need to to the dummy plugs and stand pipe o rings eventually. But... you can get a good idea if anything's leaking by monitoring ICP vs ICP duty cycle (if pressure is near or below spec, and duty cycle is maxed, you have a leak).
Engine wiring harness is likely to be brittle at this point. I wouldn't touch one that old without planning on replacing it. It might be fine now, but once you start messing with it.... that's whey the brittleness becomes a problem.
I don't think you gain anything by swapping in a long-block preventatively. That's the one part of the motor that rarely causes problems! Likewise, doing the ARP studs on a stock E-series tune isn't necessary. The head gaskets usually only leak on the E-series, is if you get fluid in the motor (failed injector or EGR cooler) and then force it to turn over. This can lift the head. The ARP studs just reduces the risk of consequential damage if one of those other parts fails. Or if you run a tune.
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2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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09-14-2019, 11:14 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Arlington Va
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb
I'd start by scoping the engine oil cooler. It's the plates are plugged at all, I'd change both that and the EGR cooler (since restricted coolant flow is what makes the EGR cooler run hot and fatigue). By now, your HPOP sump screen is likely plugged with gunk. If it hasn't blown out already.
There's a possibility you'd need to to the dummy plugs and stand pipe o rings eventually. But... you can get a good idea if anything's leaking by monitoring ICP vs ICP duty cycle (if pressure is near or below spec, and duty cycle is maxed, you have a leak).
Engine wiring harness is likely to be brittle at this point. I wouldn't touch one that old without planning on replacing it. It might be fine now, but once you start messing with it.... that's whey the brittleness becomes a problem.
I don't think you gain anything by swapping in a long-block preventatively. That's the one part of the motor that rarely causes problems! Likewise, doing the ARP studs on a stock E-series tune isn't necessary. The head gaskets usually only leak on the E-series, is if you get fluid in the motor (failed injector or EGR cooler) and then force it to turn over. This can lift the head. The ARP studs just reduces the risk of consequential damage if one of those other parts fails. Or if you run a tune.
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Well said...LOL makes me want a gasser
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06 E-350 EB 6.0 Suckless Quigley (Bulletproofed with RIP)
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09-17-2019, 09:44 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 51
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Funny that this thread pops up now; I have some current information. A week ago we headed out from Salt Lake City for a week in the Tahoe area. As we approached Wendover I noticed a haze of smoke in the distance behind me, and when I passed someone, they quickly accelerated back to the front of me and gave me a dirty look. I slowed down, from 80, and then noticed the roughness and smoke.
The local diesel service advised not to drive back to SLC, and offered to tow it for $400. We made it most of the way back to SLC when a tire on the tow truck lost its tread. The driver called AAA and used one of his "free annual tows" to get us the rest of the way to the dealer in SLC.
Bottom line, the Ford Dealer said one injector was bad, and they replaced all 4 on that side for $2,625 (including tax).
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2006 EB 6.0 Diesel, custom gaucho,
Espar hydronic and heat, 2 Solara panels,
Trojan F&R, ARB lockers, Warn winch.
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09-17-2019, 10:03 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 633
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I'm pretty sure I've posted this link before but the subject title is appropriate. I wanted to pass this on to any newer folks who would find it entertaining or helpful. I appreciated Ron making this video as I relied heavily on it to change my dummy plugs and stand pipes myself. In hind sight I could have done the job anyway but following an experienced mechanic's step by step saved me an immense amount of time. If you find it helpful remember to raise a glass to Ron who was killed way, way to young.
- Eric
__________________
2005 SMB RB 4x4 6.0 PSD
A rocket on the pad is safe,
but it's not what rockets are built for.
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