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Old 07-23-2016, 02:12 PM   #21
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Which issue are you referring to.....the weight, the wheel popping off or the wife driving the rig when something breaks
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Old 07-23-2016, 02:29 PM   #22
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Last time I was driving it. I had been on a 3 day surfing and camping trip on the Olympic peninsula a few months after buying it. About 10 minutes prior to the incident I heard/felt a really light rattle and pulled over and walked around the car, kicked the tires, did a once over and saw nothing wrong. The bolts snapped off and the tire/wheel got wedged under the heater in the back left corner. I had been driving on the edge of cliffs all day and it was one of the only safe areas it could've happened. The reason we weighed it is that we are considering shipping it to Hawaii and needed to know the weight. Certified weigh station with 2 adult men, empty water and holding tank and no gear 9600lbs.
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:12 PM   #23
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Snapped nuts

It looks like the snapped lug nuts belong to the spacers. It's the same back left wheel that snapped last time. As I'm in a different state right now and can only see the pictures and her description I can only assume that the weight is just way too much for whatever these are made of (aluminum?). Has anyone weighed their vehicle and looked at the weight limit of the quigley conversion?
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Old 07-23-2016, 06:14 PM   #24
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Spacer

Spacer shot - all snapped
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Old 07-23-2016, 07:01 PM   #25
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Well I would say then that the cause of the failure is from using the wrong grade bolts from the spacers to attach the wheel, see if they're grade 8, if not change em out on both sides. That is not a failure of the weight being too much for the semi-float axle, same setup I've got, and you can't take overall vehicle weight to determine the load that's over your rear axle, you should weigh the vehicle front and rear, I think you'll find you're well within spec.
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:03 PM   #26
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Weight is not the problem in my opinion.

It looks from the picture, that the wheel spacer has somewhat of a Hub-Centric ring on it, but that does not mean the wheels are matched to it.

In either case, it is the clamping force of the wheel studs that carries the weight if everything else is right. Those studs won't just shear because of the weight.

Either they were under torqued (maybe over torqued) or there is some defect in the wheel, wheel mounting surface, wheel spacer surface or the wheel spacer to wheel mating.

Noting how the studs broke below the surface of the spacer and not above it, would suggest a loose wheel that allowed the stud to be worked up and down, back and forth...

That can't just happen all at once...

Check all of your other lug nuts and torque to spec. - note if any of them or all are loose.

Make sure the mating surfaces are compatible.
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Old 07-23-2016, 11:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by BajaSportsmobile View Post
Weight is not the problem in my opinion.

It looks from the picture, that the wheel spacer has somewhat of a Hub-Centric ring on it, but that does not mean the wheels are matched to it.

In either case, it is the clamping force of the wheel studs that carries the weight if everything else is right. Those studs won't just shear because of the weight.

Either they were under torqued (maybe over torqued) or there is some defect in the wheel, wheel mounting surface, wheel spacer surface or the wheel spacer to wheel mating.

Noting how the studs broke below the surface of the spacer and not above it, would suggest a loose wheel that allowed the stud to be worked up and down, back and forth...

That can't just happen all at once...

Check all of your other lug nuts and torque to spec. - note if any of them or all are loose.

Make sure the mating surfaces are compatible.
Long ago and far away I had a 53 Jeep wagon. The lug nuts were not tightened correctly on one of the wheels with almost disasterous results. There were only two very loose lug on the studs when I stopped. Loose lug nuts allow the wheel to wobble instead of tracking straight down the road. The wobble can loosen them further. The loser they get the more they wobble and the more stress put on the studs. You can check your wheels to see if the stud holes are round or oval. If oval then you may wobble.

Another long shot could be wheel wobble caused by a bad axel bering.
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Old 07-24-2016, 08:16 AM   #28
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Original studs do not look like they were cut (fingers crossed). If this is the case, and the nuts holding the spacer on can be removed, you can eliminate the spacer and remount the wheel using the stock lugs IF it is in good condition and the lug holes have not been "wobbled" into an oval (and the wheel has proper clearances)

Where did those spacers come from? Who repaired the broken studs last time?
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Old 07-24-2016, 10:27 AM   #29
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With alloy wheels, the lug nuts need to be torqued to the specifications and then checked about 200 miles later. That means every time a wheel is removed, tires rotated, etc. I carry a torque wrench in our SMB just for this purpose.
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:02 AM   #30
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With alloy wheels, the lug nuts need to be torqued to the specifications and then checked about 200 miles later. That means every time a wheel is removed, tires rotated, etc. I carry a torque wrench in our SMB just for this purpose.
True enough but on mine I used those yellow plastic triangles that slip over the nuts. If they move it's pretty obvious...

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