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Old 01-08-2012, 02:10 PM   #1
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Rear Diff ID Help

Can anyone tell me which rear differential this is? The code on the door ID tag is a 33.
The tag on the differential reads 3:54 F2UA 605487-11
It has 10 bolts and is either 10 1/4" or 10 1/2" wide

The van is a 1992 E350 Clubwagon that was converted by Advanced 4 Wheel Drive Systems in Salt Lake City.

The information I get from different websites tells me the 33 is a 3:55 non limited slip another website tells me the f2 is a 4:10 posi. The shape and number of bolts tell me it's a DANA. Another website says Ford used Sterling differentials. I'm so confused.
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Gnarvan 1992 E350 Clubwagon
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:38 PM   #2
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

That tag is for a 92-93.5 E350 Dana 60/248 3.54 ratio Full Floating Axle w/ABS.

Mike
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:01 PM   #3
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

Thanks Mike

I talked to Northwest Quadvan in the middle of last week about upgrading to a Detroit Truetrac and changing the gearing to at least a 3:73. The person I talked to didn't think I could have a 3:54 or 3:55. When I call them again I'll be able to give them a more information.

If my bank account suddenly explodes with greenbacks I'd like to get a Detroit Truetrac in the back and a Detroit E-locker in the front. Anyone have $4k just laying around they don't need? I'll pay for shipping if you're willing to send it to me.
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Gnarvan 1992 E350 Clubwagon
Advanced 4WD Systems Conversion

Sotar Legend 12.5' X 22" Cataraft
2003 BMW R1150GS-Adventure
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:29 PM   #4
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

Just remember, if you change the ratio you need to either delete the tag or modify it. It is always nice to have the original p/n so you can locate the Dana BOM.

Mike
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:22 PM   #5
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

^ What Mike said!
Nice having a full floater!

BTW, Keep me in mind if you pull a Middle Fork of the Salmon permit!

Safe travels and safe floats!
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:42 PM   #6
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

I've never run the MF Salmon. I pretty much turn down invites every year. I just can't get that much time off from work when the MF runs. I have a standing invite from a group of people who do a high water preseason run every year. Launch on Marsh Creek, run Daggar then enjoy the MF. I can get away to run the shorter Idaho stuff. The Selway is great but my favorite is the SF Salmon. If you get a chance the Illinois in southern Oregon is a must run river. At some flows the Green Wall on the illinois is a real pucker ya up type of rapid.

What gear ratio are you running in your van? I know the 3.54 isn't working for me. I'm thinking a 3.73 or possibly a 4.10 would be better.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:25 AM   #7
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

What size tires are you running now, and what is the largest you'll run? My thought is that if you aren't happy with the 3.55's then the change to 3.73's isn't going to be significant so you might as well go to 4.10's if you're making the investment.

Also, will you primarily use the van in state with speeds not much higher than 65, or do you plan on lots of cross country adventures and interstate cruising? I think the 4.10's would do a better job of keeping you in overdrive without the transmission hunting around when cruising at 55-60.
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:03 PM   #8
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

I'm running 265/75/16's and don't plan on going any bigger. The front tires when steering a tight circle are pretty close to the rear leading outside edge of the fender. I'm pretty sure if I have them chained and hit a bump at the wrong steering angle I'm gonna hear some unwanted metal on metal grinding noise. I may be looking at doing a little cutting and a bushwacker install.

The transmission hunting problem is the reason for the gear change. I don't push the van much past 65 unless I'm passing someone. The more I think about it the more I'm leaning toward the 4.10's. I gave up caring about gas mileage after about the 3rd full tank so that part of the gearing change equation isn't a factor.

If I end up doing the conversion I'll need to make the decision on which type of front differential to go with. I've already decided to use a Detroit Truetrac in the rear. The big question on the front is electro magnetic or air for the locker. I keep hearing stories about air locker failures. Pulled lines and compressor failures are the primary failure modes I hear about. I haven't spent much time looking into the failure modes for the E-lockers.

I just got off the phone with Aluminess and it looks like my front bumper and nerf bars will ship today. That install will take my mind off the gearing issue for at least a day.
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Gnarvan 1992 E350 Clubwagon
Advanced 4WD Systems Conversion

Sotar Legend 12.5' X 22" Cataraft
2003 BMW R1150GS-Adventure
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:11 PM   #9
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

Another factor I haven't given a whole lot of consideration to in the gearing change is the effect of pulling my boat trailer. The trailer weighs 950lbs and the load us usually under 400lbs. The weight of the trailer amplifies the transmission hunting problem. I turn the Overdrive off in the hills but I usually leave it turned on on the flats.
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Gnarvan 1992 E350 Clubwagon
Advanced 4WD Systems Conversion

Sotar Legend 12.5' X 22" Cataraft
2003 BMW R1150GS-Adventure
2013 BMW R1200GS-Adventure
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:32 PM   #10
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Re: Rear Diff ID Help

3.55 is really only good for a stock van that does lots of highway cruising. The bigger roof and better tires really would benefit from lower gearing. I would just to at least 4.10 gears, or maybe even 4.56 if you think you may ever upsize the tires.
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