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Old 10-03-2023, 02:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by JWA View Post
If avoiding any sort of rubbing or chafing is the goal consider using DIY strips of 3M paint protection film over a properly prepared painted roof or other painted metal surface. Naturally the thickest available would be best.
Thanks JWA, that's the info I am looking for. The CCV top, at the very end of lowering it, has a 1/2" sideways movement on the roof that has rubbed off some of the paint.

You mention "properly prepared painted metal surface". Would Raptor liner be considered equivalent? And what do you consider properly prepared? Thanks!

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Old 10-03-2023, 02:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by sbgrimm View Post
You mention "properly prepared painted metal surface". Would Raptor liner be considered equivalent? And what do you consider properly prepared? Thanks!
By "properly prepared surface" I meant according to what PPF's brand used recommends. I was assuming you were going to have the repaired metal roof re-finished using one- or two-stage automotive paints, once cured it would then be cleaned ect according to the manufacturer's installation instructions.

BTW other's here may have contrary ideas about my PPF suggestion--we'll let them add their wisdom and/or experience.
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Old 10-04-2023, 09:58 AM   #33
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I don't recommend tape at all.
Interesting, the roof tape came with our rig and I've seen it on plenty of other older SMB's. I just assumed it was mandatory.

Our plan is to use Raptor liner on the roof. I'm wondering how it and the pop top rubber gasket will hold up without protective tape. Particularly since our Colorado camper van top finishes its closure with a 1/2-in lateral movement after it contacts the van roof.

Even the smoothest raptor liner seems a bit rough, and I'm not sure any tape sticks to it very well.
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