Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaSportsmobile
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianW
With 5.4L it would most assuredly be a 4r70w.
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Is this for sure? The reason I ask is that I thought my (previous) 1997 E-250 RB SMB, with 5.4 had the E4OD transmission. However, as I write that, I'm not 100% positive.
On the other hand, I do for absolutely sure know that my current 1998 E-350 with V-10 has the 4R100. There was some question just before I had it rebuilt because apparently 1998 was the transition year from E4OD to 4R100 and some 1998's had one and some the other. The way the shop found out was to look at a code tag on the side of the transmission (because the transmission ID part of the VIN just means a specific transmission family, and both the E4OD and the 4R100 are in the same family so that was no help).
So maybe 1998 E-250 with the 5.4 is different than 1998 E-350 with the V-10, and maybe my 1997 E-250 with the 5.4 actually didn't have the E4OD (of course now I am curious!)
Once I had the code from the side of the transmission, I found you can "decode" it here, although it's not the easiest reading!
http://elvparts.com/wordpress/for-trans ... -listings/
On the topic of this thread, I don't have the tons of experience that people like Ramsey and Carringb have. On the other hand, I did have a problem with my 4R100 in the 1998 E-350. It was making a ticking sound. Turned out to be a dislodged snap ring. While I was having that repaired, I asked the transmission tech's opinions on what I could/should do to make it more robust "while we were in there." I had no complaints about the functioning (shift points, etc.) so didn't so much want to change that as I did to make it more robust and worry-free. My rig weighs around 10,000# and I often tow a ~4,500# trailer, including mountain passes, so that was my "use case." From memory, here is what was done (not that I probably would have done all this if a transmission problem hadn't necessitated it be removed and opened up in the first place -- that put me at a great transmission shop so it seemed like the time/place to get 'er done. I have a written list, but not nearby at the moment. I'll have to digitize that...
1) New, locking snap ring with machined groove like the trucks have (my van just had dimples, which didn't actually work thus the initial problem).
2) Stronger OD planetary gear.
3) Improved torque converter with better cooling flow (but still has drain plug as my original did).
4) Deep trans pan with drain plug (no more removing pan to drain fluid).
5) I can't remember what (if anything else). I'll have to double check.
Outside the transmission, I added a larger transmission cooler (in place of the original). Tru Cool 40,000
Not that I'd say any of this necessarily needs to be done at random - I never had any problem with the E4OD in my 1997 5.4, and I towed with that as well. If I HAD done anything, the first thing I would have done was put on a bigger cooler - just to keep it a bit cooler when towing (although it stayed under 200ºF, so wasn't bad - why I never did put on a larger cooler in the end).
I think the main thing I would do is get/run a Scan Gauge II (or Ultra Gauge or whatever). Then monitor the transmission temperature. That's what I did on my E4OD, which never had any problems (a friend bought it from me and it is still trundling along at over 150,000 miles, no problems yet). I also run a Scan Gauge II on this rig, and always have "TFT" showing. Just like to keep an eye on it.