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Old 08-05-2016, 11:27 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnty View Post
I've owned two older advance vans and actually thought they rode good (everyone has their own opinion to what rides good), they didn't buck me around, certainly was a stiffer ride, felt like an one ton truck. I thought they rode better than my quigley. I would only deal with Randy there and yes they have been hard to get a hold of at times but have been very helpful when i finally get through, i needed parts on a number of occasions and i had to give them the vin and they pulled up the file on the van to tell me what was used. So my opinion is similar to others, if its the right van for you and everything checks out, def get it, i personally would not be swayed by the conversion, there are a lot of Advance vans running around with happy owners, prob more than Ujor and Agile combined, they've been doing it for so long. Having a few vans with newer conversions (Ujoint and Quad van) Baja is right, times and 4wd conversions are changing, there's better options IF your putting a new conversion under a van.
+1

No need to entirely replace a properly functioning Advanced conversion... just realize they may not ride as nice as some newer options! But if the price is right!

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Old 08-05-2016, 11:42 AM   #22
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I will say this though in regards to repairing vs replacing.

Everyone on here told me to try to fix it/ band aid mine back to health. So 1200 dollars later I'm still irritated that it doesn't feel like I want it to and decide to do MGs conversion.

I wish I would have decided on that route in the first place and used that 1200 towards the conversion instead of trying to fix it. I absolutely love driving my van now compared to before when it was "driveable".

If your even slightly on the fence about doing a swap to a different conversion dont sink anymore money into the advanced and use it for the swap. You'll be much happier.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:47 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jsweezy View Post
I will say this though in regards to repairing vs replacing.

Everyone on here told me to try to fix it/ band aid mine back to health. So 1200 dollars later I'm still irritated that it doesn't feel like I want it to and decide to do MGs conversion.

I wish I would have decided on that route in the first place and used that 1200 towards the conversion instead of trying to fix it. I absolutely love driving my van now compared to before when it was "driveable".

If your even slightly on the fence about doing a swap to a different conversion dont sink anymore money into the advanced and use it for the swap. You'll be much happier.
I agree, if you buy it, then buy it and enjoy it for what it is and likely with do everything you want it to but i wouldn't buy it to rip everything out even in a couple years. If your even thinking of that route then i'd find a 2wd to start with.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:21 PM   #24
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So let me start by saying this. If you have no problem spending the money to get this rig where you want and get it cheap enough then it's not so bad. But go into it expecting to spend around 10k just on the suspension if you want to swap the front end out and the rear springs.

As far as handling goes, I added fox shocks (universal/ performance series) on mine and thought it greatly improved the ride. I'm not sure how much Agile's shocks are but if they are close in price I would go to them. I had the long front springs which actually was very comfy on straight roads but when it would come time for evasive maneuvers, just start praying.

Brakes are garbage.

I also hated the fact that I had no idea what was on the rig. And don't bother calling Advanced, they won't know.

If the van is in fact everything you ever wanted and just happens to have an advanced system then at the right price I say go for it and do the work. If the van is a standard van that could be found 2wd for the same price I say save yourself the headache and just go the clean slate route.
I am well aware of this... it's running... he can either sell it to me for way less than he wants or he can rebuild a grip of things and not get ahead when he sells it.

Most likely he will post it and have to deal with a bunch of tire kickers... I could buy this thing and pass it off to someone else and makes some $$$ but to me that's unethical.

I have some guys in UT that can do the whole thing top to bottom... they do great work - I know because I flew in for 9 hrs and inspected thier work... but rejected the chassis due to East Coast rust ... I know how to deal with rust from working on ships... I'm the type of person who only picks a battle that I know I can win - that's just me.
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:22 PM   #25
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I think as long as you know what your agreeing to and still wanna do it then go for it. Thats what I did and I am happy with my decision.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:29 PM   #26
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I think as long as you know what your agreeing to and still wanna do it then go for it. Thats what I did and I am happy with my decision.
Had it up on a rack today... It turns out on this one the T-case actuator do hicky, exhaust manifold, too many fasteners on things like the water pump and oil pan, the front suspension etc are where the rust is... I take it that when he took it out on the road east into ID and MT he never gave it a fresh water wash-down... the body and engine are good though... Seems like getting parts out of Advanced could be a sh!tshow... the fasteners look like they would be a struggle to break free... They look to my like they might snap and have to drilled out - very time consuming.
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:07 PM   #27
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I'm wondering what this thing is worth in this condition?
Or rather what someone would pay for it?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BIvjPmSA...e_cheney&hl=en

The good:
underside of the floor pans little rust
no visible rust on the roof - exterior paint shaded by a tree
window configuration that suits me
7.3 Power stroke w/no car Faxable problem history
Borg Warner T-case Ok condion
4 under carage to chassis box beam bushings in good shape
Owned by a fellow snowboarder Mtn Biker (like me) - so mutual reputations at stake should something go wrong.

The bad:

Advanced 4x4 conv - hard to source part info
T-case actuator hard to work with
Rust on:
Exhaust manifold
Many fasteners on things like the water pump and oil pan that would have to be drilled out
Front box beams, front suspension & wheelwells etc are where the rust - looks like not fresh water wash-down after short trips East of WA
Aluminum Alternator even rusty
Heavy custom steel bumpers and door steps welded to Box beams -
Need to be removed because it's adding weight to the spring loads
and adding rust to the box beams locally
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:46 PM   #28
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What is the mileage? What is the proposed sale price?
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:51 PM   #29
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Cost effectiveness:
In my opinion the owner will have to dump just to sell it, $9810 in state work $8530 out of state to fix all of this stuff... so not even doing anything about the car stereo that was ripped out and removing a chair he's looking at close to $10k just to fix everything. I asked him if he's ever had to drill out a bold from a block... no... me: very time consuming.
Also it's going to burn up a lot of time... He's got a young kid keeping him busy, which ads to how he dosn't have time for this in the first place.
Had I not been tipped off by a mutual friend this would have never made it's way back from the mountains.




Quote:
Originally Posted by StraightOuttaBallard View Post
I'm wondering what this thing is worth in this condition?
Or rather what someone would pay for it?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BIvjPmSA...e_cheney&hl=en

The good:
underside of the floor pans little rust
no visible rust on the roof - exterior paint shaded by a tree
window configuration that suits me
7.3 Power stroke w/no car Faxable problem history
Borg Warner T-case Ok condion
4 under carage to chassis box beam bushings in good shape
Owned by a fellow snowboarder Mtn Biker (like me) - so mutual reputations at stake should something go wrong.

The bad:

Advanced 4x4 conv - hard to source part info
T-case actuator hard to work with
Rust on:
Exhaust manifold
Many fasteners on things like the water pump and oil pan that would have to be drilled out
Front box beams, front suspension & wheelwells etc are where the rust - looks like not fresh water wash-down after short trips East of WA
Aluminum Alternator even rusty
Heavy custom steel bumpers and door steps welded to Box beams -
Need to be removed because it's adding weight to the spring loads
and adding rust to the box beams locally
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:55 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by BajaSportsmobile View Post
What is the mileage? What is the proposed sale price?
162K ... I know to make this work for me he's got to come down on price... I can't disclose what were negotiating at this point on the forum out of respect to him if I pass on it.
He had the rear brakes fixed - and added $2500 to the price
If he fixes all this stuff it's gonna be a headache for him and take a lot of time.
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