MG Metal Works DIY kit knowledge share

[E350]

I am curious about this too. Trevor can you post up pictures? How and where are you getting slip in the driveshaft to accommodate the shortening and lengthening which must occur when the differential moves up and down?

[Trevor]

Let's see if this picture posts...


There's a splined section that telescopes which accounts for length changes.



I used Tom Woods for my shafts, but there are plenty of driveshaft shops out there. I must have talked to the guy on the phone for 40 minutes... I had a couple of questions about u joint sizes and pinion angles and he just seemed so excited to talk about driveshafts.

[kmtischer]

How are the 6.0 owners dealing with front driveshaft/oil filter clearance issues?? I was planning on getting the ujoint offroad filter relocation kit but just got email that they no longer sell to non ujoint conversions. I did find a new company called Timberline who does conversions. It appears that I could get a filter relocoation kit from them. It is listed on their website. However it is quite expensive at 450 bucks. Curious what others have done??

[E350]

Trevor: Your photo is appreciated! So is the splined section in front of the rear differential? Where is Tom Wood's located?

Also if you have a diesel drop that steel tank and look inside for delamination asap.

[Trevor]

The splined section is on the axle side... here's a better look.


Thanks for the heads up but it's a gas van and the tank coating is in good shape. I had a good look at it when I cut the end off.

[b. rock]

Originally Posted by Trevor

I went ahead and had a new single piece 3.5 inch diameter shaft made. 1350 joints and a double cardian CV. Take some measurements and call a driveshaft shop... they should be able to help you out even if you end up modifying a used shaft.

I guess I haven't done the math, but was a double cardan really necessary? I was thinking if you clocked the rear axle a couple degrees it wouldn't be needed (then again, I'm planning on a Sterling which means new perches). I'm used to seeing the double cardans on pretty extreme angles for driveshafts where things are pretty tight/close together.

[Trevor]

I'm no expert on driveshafts, so I can't say definitively that this configuration is absolutely necessisary. I called a driveshaft shop and gave them measurements and a description of my application and intended use and this is what was recommended. I dont think I was upsold. I do recall asking about a larger ujoint size but was steered away from it as the benefits didn't seem to fit my intended use. He could have gotten a few hundred more of my dollars if I went that route.



I really recommend calling a shop and talking it over with an expert. I had a good experience with Tom Wood's. I'm sure there are other shops that would provide an equally positive experience too.

[jacobthrock]

I just used Tom Woods for my conversion (great company) they worked with me over the phone for a long time. I went to two local shops in Phoenix and called two more online companies. Tom Wood’s �������� all of their prices and had them shipped to me in 4 days. I didn’t need a double carden with my MG Metalworks setup.

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...4-23829-5.html

[kmtischer]

So, did you clock the axle at all?? How did you set the pinion angle? If I understand correctly, with double carden you want it be basicly a strait shot from transfer case to axle, but with a normal shaft you want the front angle to match the rear angle. Could someone educate me, please. Thanks

[jacobthrock]

I’m working out of town so I’m going by memory here so don’t fully trust what I’m saying but this is the gist of what I did. (Tom Wood’s website has great information on everything and you can always call them for a quote and they will talk you through everything) I don’t know what you mean by clock the axle?

I installed a Sterling rearend, I had to change the spring perches, so I was able to set the pinion angle at whatever I needed it to be.

1- set the van on level ground, make sure you have the suspension and ride height where it will be when when final, set all 4 tire pressures the same.

2- with a angle finder find the angle of the yoke on the transfer case. (Write that down)

3- set the pinion angle on the rearend (from the yoke) to match the angle of the transfer case yoke angle. You want the two yokes to be inline if you are not running a double carden. I was told as long as the driveshaft is at 10° angle or less (measuring the angle of the actual driveshaft on the driveshaft itself) you don’t need a double carden. (Going by memory) to measure the driveshaft angle install a old driveshaft and put the angle finder on the driveshaft, or run a string from yoke to yoke (making sure to go from the same place on each yoke) and measure from the string, or run a bar from yoke to yoke (making sure to go from the same place on each yoke) and measure the angle of the bar. Or what I did was measured from the ground to the center of the transfer case yoke (wrote those numbers down) then measured from the ground to the center of the rearend yoke (wrote those numbers down) then gave those measurements to Tom Wood’s and they did the calculations and figured out that my driveshaft angle was under 10° and that I didn’t need a double carden in the rear of my van. I hope this helps.

http://www.4xshaft.com/JR7_TW_Driveshaft.pdf