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Old 04-19-2020, 07:39 PM   #261
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Maybe this will help.

https://www.drivetrainshop.com/Articles.asp?ID=263

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Old 04-19-2020, 08:33 PM   #262
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Thanks for that link! Looks like there isn't a carrier break in the rear diff in the 10.5 Sterling. That's pretty swell.

I also looked at the fordpartsonline and the same e-locker part number is listed for the 3.31 (diesel) and the 4.30 gasser axles.

I'll call that case-closed.
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Old 04-20-2020, 01:36 PM   #263
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Lilnuts -- I noticed you went with 2013+ axles.. did you end up getting one with an e-locker? Have you sorted out the rear ABS?

In good (I think news).. it appears the diesel 4R100 is commanded only using the VSS (the one on the extension housing) and the TSS (the sensor on the transmission body) to manage shifting.

It appears that the VSS on the rear axle is only used for the ABS.. so it should be fine to drive a 7.3L without that speed sensor.

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So -- maybe a solution to get the rear ABS working is to simply pull the carrier, attach the tone ring to the carrier, re-install and then drill and tap a place for the single ABS sensor (with the 120 tooth tone ring). This would basically involve setting up the axle again, which is annoying.

However, it is likely that won't work either since in the comments on this video some guy says he swapped a 2011 Sterling into a 2006 F250 and whenever he turns on the locker the ABS light comes on and the speedometer zeroes out. Unlike the F-series, the the E-series rear speed sensor doesn't provide any speedometer information to the cluster, but it obviously does control the ABS, which would go out when the locker is on.



Maybe this is a good thing... I only envision using the locker on the trail, and then it'd be nice to disable to ABS. Seems some vehicles toggle the ABS off when 4LO is engaged.

Mikerson -- any luck with those ABS sensors?
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Old 04-20-2020, 04:48 PM   #264
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You're right about the trans and ABS not using the same sensors. I have mounted a tone ring to the rear flange on the Tcase output to avoid messing with taking the carrier out of the axle. Then built a bracket to mount the sensor off of the tail housing. If you're doing a set of gears anyway, it wouldn't be difficult to set up the ring gear sensor.

I don't see any reason why that one guy would have the ABS light come on and the speedo zero out. Definitely sounds like he has something messed up.

The Elocker wires up similarly to any relayed load with the exception that you should use a diode suppressed relay protect against voltage spikes. It's really just like any other accessory...not tied into the ABS at all. Not in your year of van anyway. Plus the ABS to the rear of the van is just the rear of the van in general, not individual wheels.
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Old 04-20-2020, 05:20 PM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgmetalworks View Post
I don't see any reason why that one guy would have the ABS light come on and the speedo zero out. Definitely sounds like he has something messed up.

The Elocker wires up similarly to any relayed load with the exception that you should use a diode suppressed relay protect against voltage spikes. It's really just like any other accessory...not tied into the ABS at all. Not in your year of van anyway. Plus the ABS to the rear of the van is just the rear of the van in general, not individual wheels.
It is due to the difference between the early 00 F-Series and E-Series. Based on the wiring diagram for a 2000 F-Series (and the troubleshooting steps) looks like the instrument cluster actually uses the rear speed sensor to feed the speedometer (and the ABS, obviously). I think the magnetic field from the e-locker wipes out the pattern on the Rear VSS -- makes sense to me that it'd kill the speedo and the ABS. See the diagram below:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgmetalworks View Post
You're right about the trans and ABS not using the same sensors. I have mounted a tone ring to the rear flange on the Tcase output to avoid messing with taking the carrier out of the axle. Then built a bracket to mount the sensor off of the tail housing. If you're doing a set of gears anyway, it wouldn't be difficult to set up the ring gear sensor.
This definitely seems like the best way to go... I'd rather just buy low mileage axles and not open them up. Have a part number for the tone ring? I'd rather add a tone ring and fabricate a bracket than re-mesh gears and install a new carrier. Honestly, I'd probably live without ABS, too...but I'm way too OCD for that.

This is a pretty slick solution too.. guy installed a reluctor ring on the tailshaft and welded in a bung for the sensor:
https://www.nc4x4.com/forum/threads/.../#post-1683349
It would give me an excuse to use my father-in-laws lathe and mill, but it's probably more trouble than it is worth!!
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Old 04-26-2020, 12:58 PM   #266
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Looks like 17-20 axles should work too -- just have to be careful you don't end up with a Dana rear end. Seems the F250s without the heavy-duty towing package still get the Sterling rear end. Others get Dana M275/M300 units.

Seems the front end is largely unchanged.

This from here:
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...erentials.aspx


The release of the 2017 SuperDuty brought about some revisions to the axles in order to support the additional power and towing capacity compared to the previous 2011-2016 model year generation. Up front, its basically unchanged with the use of a 35 spline Super Dana 60. Out back, however, there are several variations depending on the capacity of the truck. For those with an F-250, there are two axles that could be residing under your bed. If your truck is equipped with the Heavy Duty Tow Package, you've got a Dana M275 featuring a 10.8" ring gear. For those F-250's without the HD Tow Package, you'll have the tried and true Sterling 10.5 that has been used for years, still featuring a 10.5" ring gear. Moving from there, the F-350 Single Rear Wheel (SRW) models are equipped with the same Dana M275 as the properly equipped 250's. Next, Dual Rear Wheel (DRW) F-350 and F-450's are bumped to a Dana M300 with a massive 11.8" ring gear. The 10.5" has 35 spline axles, where the M275 has 36 splines, and the M300 boasts 37 splines. From the factory, these housings were typically stuffed with the popular 3.31 ratio, but also had options for 3.55, 3.73, or 4.30 ratios.

Over the years, these assemblies have proven themselves relatively reliable on moderately used trucks running stock, or close to stock tire size and power output. For those of us that demand substantial power increases and larger tires, there is room for improvement to improve the reliability and performance that they can afford. One of the best upgrades we can recommend for anyone that has increased tire size, is that of a ring and pinion ratio upgrade. As previously stated, most of these trucks came factory with a 3.31 ratio, designed to have a proper run out with a stock size tire (roughly 32" with the popular 275-65R-18 size). But as soon as you upgrade to a 37" or larger tire, all of a sudden your RPM vs. speed are effected, even causing a disruption of the shift pattern on automatic transmission equipped trucks.

Lets give the example of upgrading to a 37" tire. By using cross multiplication, we can determine that in order to have the same RPM vs. speed as with the factory tire size, you would want to install a 3.83 gear ratio (3.31/32*37). Unfortunately, in this scenario there is no such thing as a 3.83 ratio, but the closest would be a 3.73 that is readily available. Or, you can also opt to go with a slightly lower ratio of 4.10 that would give you a higher RPM vs. speed compared to stock, which is especially useful for those towing frequently.

Besides replacing the ring and pinion, we also offer numerous other upgrades, such as ARB Air Lockers, rebuild kits, and so much more. As always, if you have any questions about which product is right for you and your truck don't hesitate to give us a call or send us an e-mail to cs@dieselpowerproducts.com and we would be happy to help.
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Old 05-20-2020, 06:32 AM   #267
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Shocks too long??

Anyone experience their shocks being over a full inch too long?? I got the Fox shocks with reservoirs that match the recommended specs, and they're easily an inch >1.5in too long. With the axle lowered down, the top of the front springs drop down from the buckets almost an inch.
Anyone have experience w this? Recommendations?
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Old 05-20-2020, 06:36 AM   #268
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Are your springs not secured to prevent that from happening?
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Old 05-20-2020, 06:54 AM   #269
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If your springs are secured, and this is happening, then you need some limit straps. You shouldn't be relying on your shocks to hold up the axle at full droop anyway. Is this happening while driving, or are you lifting the vehicle in some way to test it?
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:55 PM   #270
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Shocks too long

I'm not driving it yet. We noticed this while fitting the axle underneath. For it to occur while driving, I'd have to hit a 10"+ deep hole. Realistically, I'm only worried if I take it offroad.
The small metal OEM 'latch' that came off the top of original spring doesn't quite seem to fit back in with the new springs. Do I need to heat and bend it to get the metal tab to latch back around the top of the spring at the top of the bucket?
Should that tab/latch hold the spring up (and thus, hold the weight of the axle as well!?)
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