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Old 10-20-2020, 09:01 PM   #371
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Re: Wheels and Tires

I'm running 325/65r18 toyo open country at3's on black rhino armory wheels with 4.54 backspacing. I love the tires and the rims look great, but with the 4.54" back spacing I make slight contact with the pinch weld, bushwackers, and stock side steps at the rear fender well when articulating and turned. If I went with the 5.5" back spacing I would not have that problem. One issue I came across for those who intend to run an aluminess swing out spare tire carrier on a stock bumper setup is that the larger back spacing is a problem. I purchased a cheap spare rim (didn't want to spend $600 for a rim and tire since it will be covered and I don't like rotating my spare) and it is 4.75" back spacing and the 325/65r18 tire compresses into the tube frame of the swing out carrier. So anything more than that would be problematic.
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Old 10-20-2020, 09:07 PM   #372
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Originally Posted by desertsherpa View Post
Thanks for the reply and advice. Currently the line is too tall now, and would like to keep it mounted in the stock clips on the drivers side.

I was able to keep mine in the clips on each side, I can take a photo tomorrow and post it.
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Old 10-21-2020, 12:18 PM   #373
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For anyone who used sumosprings up front instead of the factory bumpstops -- did you offset them with 2" spacers or did you attach them directly to the frame?

They are about 2" taller than the factory bumpstops and are direct replacements for the factory bumpstops.

begs the question -- if we're ought to offset the factory bumpstops by 2" should we do it with sumosprings too?

I might do it anywyas -- since the engine crossmember gets in the way of mounting the passenger sumospring directly to the frame... I could cut away some of the sumospring/mounting pad -- but might be easier to just throw a 1 or 2" puck in there and mount it intact.

Curious if others have run into these issues. Next time I'm near the van, I'll send pictures of the exact interference.
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Old 10-21-2020, 06:02 PM   #374
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Originally Posted by desertsherpa View Post
Thanks for the reply and advice. Currently the line is too tall now, and would like to keep it mounted in the stock clips on the drivers side.
Here are some photos, this shows somewhat how I bent the line to take up some of the length by making it sweep up towards the top of the cross member and also around where the track bar mount goes. Then drilled new holes for a few of the anti rattle clips and then manipulated the lines a litrle more until they did whatbit wanted them to. I also slit a piece of silicone vacuum hose and slid it over the upper line where it may ride pr vibrate against part of the cross member and track bar mount. Hope it helps
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Old 10-22-2020, 02:01 PM   #375
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In case you didn't see this... I have some parts that might be useful in a build.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post283473
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:04 PM   #376
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anyone got any pictures of their exhaust done for the 5.4 4r75e after the install?
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:07 AM   #377
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Hrm... I just buttoned up my front end and it appears my axle is favoring the driver side by about 1". Doesn't seem like much -- but the passenger side spring is nearly riding on the frame.

Passenger Side:
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Driver Side:
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Assuming the axle isn't bent -- it seems the location of the shock towers and frame mounts should center the axle without anything else. I see jeeper forums suggesting using the trac bar to "center" the axle - but in my case, that would involve a lot of lateral force to "pull" the axle into position while setting the tracbar. I'm not against that solution if that is what is required - but it just doesn't feel right.

This was my procedure...
1) mount the radius arms into the MG kit brackets (loose not torqued)
2) attach springs to axle and frame-- loosely
3) jack up the body so the axle can hang by the springs...
4) put the axle down onto jack stands and torque radius arm bolts and spring bolts everything up
5) install tie rods, drag link and trac-bar based on this alignment.


It seems more correct that the tracbar should be set to return the axle to the loaded resting position of the suspension... which is why I did what I did and "hung" the axle to let it find it's natural orientation.

I'm new to this style of suspension, so I'm curious how to do this. I only realized this after I tried to mount my Sumosprings and there legitimately isn't enough room between the frame/spring to mount it -- I found photos of MGs installed with SumoSprings and my axle is definitely favoring the driver side.

It seems like it could be one of three things causing this:
1 - My frame has some underlying issues and thus MG brackets aren't completely square and the radius arms are slightly angled.

I did have difficulities getting the driver side one up tight against the frame -- but with the help of some clamps and a jack, it went on fine after some persuasion. It was only off like 1/32 anyways -- and once I bolted it up it easily took care of that difference.

Nevertheless, seems important to check. You never know with a 20 year old van!!

2 - The springs aren't mounted evenly on the perches. They aren't completely symmetric currently but they aren't off by much. I'll check tomorrow -- but at most there is like 1/4" (probably even less) of adjustment here given the way the spring retainer grabs the springs -- but I'm a noob here -- so there probably is a bit more than I think.

3 - My axle is bent...

Here's my plan of attack:
1 - check to make sure the axle isn't bent. I checked this when I had it off the vehicle and it was fine -- but I could have missed something. I'll check again but I really think the axle is OK.

2 - Let the axle hang and check for obvious misalignment of the MG brackets to axle -- i.e. does it appear one of the radius arms is not square with the frame and axle.

3- While axle is hanging, remove the trac-bar, loosen the radius arm to MG bracket bolts -- check if axle "aligns" itself.

4 - Loosen the spring retainer bolts and see if I "push" the axle further to the passenger side and rebolt.

Any other things to check or do? Anyone else run into these issues at all? Did I miss something big?
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Old 10-26-2020, 06:28 PM   #378
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Well sometimes a good sleep and the help of an incredibly intuitive wife saves the day (mind you, she doesn't work on cars at all...)...

The axle isn't bent -- phew -- but I was able to center it properly.

Per MG -- I loosened the springs and moved them as far forward and outboard on the axle perches as possible. That helped a ton -- but the axle was still a bit misaligned. So my wife said -- why not use the steering wheel to jiggle the suspension? Sure enough -- using the steering "jounced" the suspension a bunch -- I loosened up the springs and "jounced" it some more and it magically centered itself.

As a tip for you other first-timers out there... make sure your springs are attached in exactly the same orientation on both sides (well it'll be 180* off from passenger to driver) -- the easiest way to check is to make sure the amount protruding from the spring retainer at the top is the same -- in my case, it is about 1/4". Mine was slightly off previously and I'm sure this didn't help with the centering.

All good in the hood now...
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As usual -- overthinking it!
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Old 10-26-2020, 06:34 PM   #379
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Garage
Excellent, glad you figured it out.
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:02 AM   #380
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Quote:
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anyone got any pictures of their exhaust done for the 5.4 4r75e after the install?
There are a couple of pics here from jsweezy.
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post234446

And earlier in this thread.
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post253267

If you get desperate, I can crawl under my van.
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