Warn Locking Hubs Getting Very Hot

[arctictraveller]

It’s quite common that the rubber brake lines deteriorate inside and don’t allow the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. When that happens, the brakes can drag excessively. There is also a check valve that keeps a minor amount of brake pressure on the calipers so that you have a firm pedal as soon as you push it. But that amount of pressure is minor, it should not cause your rotors to heat up or be hard to turn the wheel when it’s jacked up.

[Steve Hunt]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

I check my hub, bearing and tire temp's several times a day using an infrared gun. As I remember, on my last trip with temps in 90's, my hub temps were never over about 110deg's. Tire and rear axle temps were similar. I am running Warn premium hubs.

I too have the premium Warn hubs and check them, tires, rear diff with the infrared gun when traveling and while I'm refueling. In spite of variables like air pressure, ambient, van weight, driving speed...Your temp figures are quite close to my typical ones. My tires are always between 105-125 (run 45psi). Warn hubs 100-123. Rear diff 141-161.

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by Steve Hunt

...Your temp figures are quite close to my typical ones. My tires are always between 105-125 (run 45psi). Warn hubs 100-123. Rear diff 141-161.

Thanks, it’s good to have another data point.

[Clarkboulder]

Thanks @Arctictraveller. thats is interesting and helpful info. The van is a 96' after all so it's possible. How would one diagnose that? Would the rubber line on the outside show signs of cracking? Or is there a way to assess the fluid return rate or pressure? Really curious on this one. Seems like a plausible theory and one that would be easily overlooked.

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by Clarkboulder

Thanks @Arctictraveller. thats is interesting and helpful info. The van is a 96' after all so it's possible. How would one diagnose that?

I'm not really sure, but it seems you have eliminated most other possibility's with the exception of perhaps a bearing problem. I simply replaced all my lines with braided stainless.

[waren]

Sounds like you found the problem, however I would still recommend checking the front wheel bearings. Converted and modified vehicles can be very confusing to “brake, tire and muffler” shops.

I purchased my van second hand and most service had been completed at tire shops. After a few years of ownership I decided to go through the front end. I discovered completely destroyed wheel bearing lock ring and stripped spindle on one side and over tightened lock nut on the other. The pass wheel was held on by the overtightened adjustment nut only, and the spindle was blue from previous heat (it had never gotten hot in my ownership). Most of our trips are through the mountains loosing that wheel easily could have resulted in multiple fatalities.

I don’t recall the exact values but the torque spec for the front diff that’s under the van was less half that of the stock bearing nut. What blew my mind was that whoever did it decided to leave the broken lock ring and stripped spindle, snug the retention nut and send it out the door.

Freewheeling down the hwy the bearings are cool to touch. If they arent I would be seeings what’s up in there.

[Clarkboulder]

Update to this 2 yrs later. Had to have the wheel bearings completely repacked recently as the grease was black. Presumably in part because of the excessive heating. Had the u-joints replaced. I had drilled and slotted Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake rotors installed with Carbon Fiber-Ceramic Brake Pads. Still heating up. The Locking hubs are not Warn after all. They appear to be Ford OEM from the Quigley conversion. Part FORD F5TZ-3B396-E. It was suggested to me that upgrading them to a Warn hub would help with the overheating but I am skeptical. Thoughts? I think the excessive heat is killing my brakes prematurely and the grease in the bearings.