2013 Door Panels on 04 Chinook E-350

[Chinook]

Some of my more recent work....

[K31 Van]

Your pretty funny. Thanks for the detailed write up and picture diagrams.

[Chinook]

I need to clarify, i believe i stated you need a pair of relays for each door.... that is not correct. You only need one pair of relays to operate both doors using the new style switches. It is easiest to start on the drivers side, mount your relays to the drivers door behind the door panel. "Cap off the hot wire on the passenger side as it will not be used, ground any wires on that side that show as grounds in your wiring diagram for your year vehicle."

The passenger side has the fewest wires. Ground any wires indicated as being grounds in your diagram for your year vehicle. Cap off the positive wire on the passenger side. Now we only have 4 wires remaining on the new switch and 2 old wires remaining from your vehicle harness on the passenger side. Use your ohm meter and find out which wires those 2 old wires mate with on the drivers side as they change colors once they reach the drivers side. Once you have determined which two wires on the passenger side feed the drivers side splice the two switched ground wires from your new switch on the passenger side to those two old wires. By doing this you are just lengthening the wires attached to your new switch so that they reach the drivers side. Now follow the diagram i posted below, keeping in mind you just routed two wires to the driver side from your new switch that will need to be hooked up to the relays on the driver side terminals 85 and 86. Which one they plug into is determined by if the lock actually locks when you press lock, or if it unlocks when you press lock. If it unlocks when you press lock simply swap terminals 85 and 86.


#1)....We hook up the drivers side using our wiring schematic for the year vehicle we have. On the drivers side old switch you should have 5 wires. Two of those wires feed the door lock actuator, two more wires run across to the passenger side, and one of them is a hot wire.
#2)....Reference your wiring schematic, find the two wires that feed the lock actuator, hook those two wires to pins 30, one on each relay. The other two remaining colored wires leave disconnected for now.
#3)....FInd the hot/positive wire on the drivers side off of your old lock switch, hook that wire to the positive terminals indicated in my diagram (4 total).
#4)....Ground the wires in my schematic marked "ground".
#5)....Now ground the black wire from your "new lock switch", hook the blue wire to a positive wire that is hot only when the key is on, (you will have to tie it into the hot wire for the windows most likely. It illuminates the LED's inside your new switch.)
#6).... Now hook the two remaining wires from your "new switch" to pins 85 on one relay and 86 on the other relay.
#7).... Test your new drivers side lock switch, if it functions properly move onto the passenger side. If the door unlocks when you press lock reverse wires on pins 85 and 86.
#8).... On passenger side you also have 5 wires, cap off the hot wire (it isnt needed). Hook the two ground wires to ground.
#9).... On your "new passenger side switch" blue goes to key on hot wire (it lights the LED's inside the switch). Next hook the black wire to ground.
#10).... Now hook the two remaining wires coming from your "new passenger switch" to the two remaining colored wires (from old switch). Those two old wires run across to the drivers side and are the two wires you left unhooked in step #2. Once those wires are hooked up you are finished on the passenger side.
#11).... Move back to the drivers side and hook the two wires from step #2 to the relays on pins 85 and 86. You already have a wire on each of these pins so dont get confused, when you are finished you will have 2 wires on one relay pin 85, and two wires on the other relay pin 86.
#12).... Now test your passenger switch, if it unlocks when you press lock switch the two wires around that you just hooked up on pins 85 and 86.
#13).... If all goes well you are now finished with functioning door lock switches.
#14).... If it doesnt work dont blame me, take a breather and go back over the procedure and double check your wiring schematic for your truck.
#15).... Send me money.

[Lilnuts2]

How did I miss this great write up, Thank you Chinook for all this great info. I have also wondered why someone (with much more electrical savvy then I) hasn't done a write up on this.
I really want the newer style switches in the newer style door panels. Your info gives me the courage to tackle this project.

Is there anyway to re-post the video mentioned in post #10 ?

[Lilnuts2]

I know this is an old post. Does anyone have any input for the power mirrors?

[leedhambly@mac.com]

Originally Posted by Chinook

I need to clarify, i believe i stated you need a pair of relays for each door.... that is not correct. You only need one pair of relays to operate both doors using the new style switches. It is easiest to start on the drivers side, mount your relays to the drivers door behind the door panel. "Cap off the hot wire on the passenger side as it will not be used, ground any wires on that side that show as grounds in your wiring diagram for your year vehicle."

The passenger side has the fewest wires. Ground any wires indicated as being grounds in your diagram for your year vehicle. Cap off the positive wire on the passenger side. Now we only have 4 wires remaining on the new switch and 2 old wires remaining from your vehicle harness on the passenger side. Use your ohm meter and find out which wires those 2 old wires mate with on the drivers side as they change colors once they reach the drivers side. Once you have determined which two wires on the passenger side feed the drivers side splice the two switched ground wires from your new switch on the passenger side to those two old wires. By doing this you are just lengthening the wires attached to your new switch so that they reach the drivers side. Now follow the diagram i posted below, keeping in mind you just routed two wires to the driver side from your new switch that will need to be hooked up to the relays on the driver side terminals 85 and 86. Which one they plug into is determined by if the lock actually locks when you press lock, or if it unlocks when you press lock. If it unlocks when you press lock simply swap terminals 85 and 86.


#1)....We hook up the drivers side using our wiring schematic for the year vehicle we have. On the drivers side old switch you should have 5 wires. Two of those wires feed the door lock actuator, two more wires run across to the passenger side, and one of them is a hot wire.
#2)....Reference your wiring schematic, find the two wires that feed the lock actuator, hook those two wires to pins 30, one on each relay. The other two remaining colored wires leave disconnected for now.
#3)....FInd the hot/positive wire on the drivers side off of your old lock switch, hook that wire to the positive terminals indicated in my diagram (4 total).
#4)....Ground the wires in my schematic marked "ground".
#5)....Now ground the black wire from your "new lock switch", hook the blue wire to a positive wire that is hot only when the key is on, (you will have to tie it into the hot wire for the windows most likely. It illuminates the LED's inside your new switch.)
#6).... Now hook the two remaining wires from your "new switch" to pins 85 on one relay and 86 on the other relay.
#7).... Test your new drivers side lock switch, if it functions properly move onto the passenger side. If the door unlocks when you press lock reverse wires on pins 85 and 86.
#8).... On passenger side you also have 5 wires, cap off the hot wire (it isnt needed). Hook the two ground wires to ground.
#9).... On your "new passenger side switch" blue goes to key on hot wire (it lights the LED's inside the switch). Next hook the black wire to ground.
#10).... Now hook the two remaining wires coming from your "new passenger switch" to the two remaining colored wires (from old switch). Those two old wires run across to the drivers side and are the two wires you left unhooked in step #2. Once those wires are hooked up you are finished on the passenger side.
#11).... Move back to the drivers side and hook the two wires from step #2 to the relays on pins 85 and 86. You already have a wire on each of these pins so dont get confused, when you are finished you will have 2 wires on one relay pin 85, and two wires on the other relay pin 86.
#12).... Now test your passenger switch, if it unlocks when you press lock switch the two wires around that you just hooked up on pins 85 and 86.
#13).... If all goes well you are now finished with functioning door lock switches.
#14).... If it doesnt work dont blame me, take a breather and go back over the procedure and double check your wiring schematic for your truck.
#15).... Send me money.

This is AWESOME. Where do I send the money per #15? Thank you for detailing this.

[ScrapIron]

Originally Posted by Lilnuts2

How did I miss this great write up, Thank you Chinook for all this great info. I have also wondered why someone (with much more electrical savvy then I) hasn't done a write up on this.
I really want the newer style switches in the newer style door panels. Your info gives me the courage to tackle this project.

Is there anyway to re-post the video mentioned in post #10 ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdmmoHbrPbU