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Old 03-01-2012, 09:50 AM   #41
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

I am planning to take my SMB to the Line-X shop down the street from me they seem to do good work. Anyway I'm planning to have the PH-top and the fiberglass running boards done. The metal roof looks to be in good shape, it is a 2004 and the PO kept it in his garage since new, so I wasn't going to have them do the metal roof. Is this wise or should I have the metal roof done too? Also, on the roof should I have them tape off the roof bolts/washers or remove them? If you undo the bolts will the roof liner and brackets drop? I have stress cracks close to 2 of the roof bolts, also 2 cracks on the back to the left of the brake light, all seem to be in the gelcoat only.

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Old 03-01-2012, 03:15 PM   #42
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

ehc0720, I followed Saline's lead and removed the nuts and washers from the roof but left the bolt in place so I did not have to fight to get them back in. I then taped them off before spraying. If you mask everything then lower the roof in place the bolts held in place during the spraying process since they sat against the penthouse bed and the tape also helped to keep them in place. I removed them so that I could spray right up to the bolt and then I was also able to get new butyl on the washers when I replaced them and the nuts. This really helped to be sure that the whole thing was weathered in when done. As far as the metal portion of the roof, I don't think that needs to be done. It hold up well over the years and wont crack and leak like the fiberglass roof.

pjpvi, from the looks of the photos in your gallery you make it out this way quite often. I bet I could get Saline to help supervise your work just for the beer. Really, once the masking was done it was cake. Good luck.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:46 PM   #43
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeH
I'm also curious about the black top but I've also heard that car color is a fallacy. White is no cooler than black.
Seems so. At least not the extremes of what is normally considered true.
http://www.tom-morrow-land.com/tests/cartemp/index.htm
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Old 03-03-2012, 05:32 PM   #44
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

"The glass temperature (which I assume to be a proxy for interior temperature) varied only 5 to 6 degrees between the black and white cars on average."

I added the emphasis. I think that's a rather large assumption. If taking the time and trouble to run a test like this, why not do it right and measure the interior air temperature?


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Old 03-10-2012, 10:50 AM   #45
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler
"The glass temperature (which I assume to be a proxy for interior temperature) varied only 5 to 6 degrees between the black and white cars on average."

I added the emphasis. I think that's a rather large assumption. If taking the time and trouble to run a test like this, why not do it right and measure the interior air temperature?


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The way to do it is to cover all the windows and do a inside temp test. I would figure with exposed windows, the inside will reach a max temp compared to outside and level off no matter what color, but would think a dark color would reach the max temp quicker...but I'm just guessing. It would be a interesting test.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:18 AM   #46
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

Well I went to the local Line-X shop for an estimate, WOW!!!. For the PH top they wanted $1300, plus $300 for a color change set up and $200 for a urethane/kevlar top coat to keep it from hazing over after a few years. Also asked about doing my fiberglass running boards, another $800. Geeze.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:04 PM   #47
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ehc0720
Well I went to the local Line-X shop for an estimate, WOW!!!. For the PH top they wanted $1300, plus $300 for a color change set up and $200 for a urethane/kevlar top coat to keep it from hazing over after a few years. Also asked about doing my fiberglass running boards, another $800. Geeze.
I have gotten similar quotes. Hence why the raptor liner is so attractive.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:09 PM   #48
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

Saline,

What grit sandpaper did you use with the palm sander? Was is something mild like 600 grit of aggressive like a 240 or less?

My other questions is more general, how much weight will the penthouse hold? I saw that you were standing on the top and am curious how much if any it sagged. My top is 89 vintage and has not leaked, for which I am grateful. Not sure if I want to be standing on a fiberglass shell that old. Has anyone else stood on a top that old?
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:11 PM   #49
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

I'm thinking it was fairly coarse. 240 possibly? It doesn't have to be too fine because the Raptor Liner is so thick and textured.
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:37 PM   #50
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Re: Re-finishing the PH Top (Raptor Liner)

I've got the cracks and peeling so I'm going to do this before mounting a solar panel. I'm going to replace the rusted washers and use new butyl rather than spraying over the washers (which is what SMB does) but I also have what appears to be a screw poking up through the top creating a nickel-sized hole. I'm uncertain whether just filling in the area with butyl will work or maybe some fiberglass filler would be better before spraying the liner?
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