Engine Batteries Draining, Current leak? Possible Solution!!

[SilverForkPhil]

Hey Mike-

What's the "camper radio switch"?

Since I only have the SMB penthouse rather than a full blown SMB, I'm certain I don't have one, just curious.

Phil

[JWA]

Originally Posted by SilverForkPhil

Now I get to shop and pick out a new Stereo (and speakers, while I'm at it )
Any suggestions?
Never mind, I'll search some of the many recent threads on that subject, or start a new one.

I almost always suggest first trip is to Crutchfield.com for aftermarket car audio etc. If nothing else their selection of stock wiring harness adapters/connectors makes most DIY installations more plug 'n play than ever before. Most times shipping even small items is free and very, very fast---usually no more than 2-3 days to your door of in-stock items.

The only downside is warranty service---on occasion a local authorized dealer of a brand you'd buy from Crutchfield is hesitant to work with you on resolving any possible issues. Of course once you've settled on a brand and model talk to the local dealers and price compare. I'm finding more and more pricing is very consistent between the local guys and Crutchfield.

[Herbie]

Originally Posted by SilverForkPhil

Hey Mike-

What's the "camper radio switch"?

Since I only have the SMB penthouse rather than a full blown SMB, I'm certain I don't have one, just curious.

Phil

Since you didn't get an answer, thought I'd try: I can't find a ready picture, but some Sportsmobiles have had a toggle switch on the dash (usually near the radio) that allows you to redirect the power supply to the radio from either the starting battery (normal) or house battery (camping). The idea being to allow you to run the radio without threatening your starting capacity.

I believe there's a possible failure mode for the switch where the radio can be constantly "on" and drawing current, even with the ignition off.

Generally car radios take ALL their power from the constant-hot line, and only use the Ignition line as a sense input (i.e. no appreciable current flows through that line, only enough to sense if ignition is running.) That's another place I'd look for problems - to make sure the Ignition-Sense is going low all the way to the radio.