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Old 09-26-2017, 03:59 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by kingnever View Post
Thanks! That's great to know. I did have a mind to just totally leave it be - but wouldn't keeping a battery in there that isn't holding a charge put additional load on the alternator? I'm pretty thick when it comes to electrical so that might be a terribly dumb question.
I'm not sure if it adds strain on the alternator, but if there isn't a load on that battery, then it shouldn't be a big deal...??

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Old 09-26-2017, 11:32 PM   #92
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If you pull the aux battery, you're supposed to install a jumper into the aux battery harness next to the windshield fluid reservoir. This will keep the trailer tow circuit working after the aux battery is disconnected.

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Old 09-27-2017, 02:02 PM   #93
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Buy a battery and keep it. Better to have and not need.....

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Old 10-19-2017, 12:59 AM   #94
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I'm now starting to wonder if replacing my AUX battery would be a good way to gauge my power needs for the "permanent" house battery setup I'll eventually have. Anyone have any experience tapping into the 40A AUX battery circuit that's supposed to be in the driver B-pillar? My b-pillar is easily accessible but I don't know what I'm looking at. I'd love to see some examples if anyone is using their factory aux battery as a house battery.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:48 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by 1der View Post
Hi FF, Not sure how this will help but here goes:

I have a 2003 V10, it did NOT come with the aux battery on the frame. I did want a set of house batteries and spent a great deal of time figuring out how to get the most amp hours in the space along the passenger frame rail under the side doors.

What we ended up with was two AGM Group 31's at 105 aH each mounted on the frame rail laying on their side.

I was able to use a factory harness from a 2007+ diesel van that had both batteries mounted on the frame. This harness allowed me to tap into the battery cable terminal on the starter. I ran the cable back from this terminal back to a Blue Sea manual selector switch ( I do not like isolators/separators but one could be inserted if so desired) This switch resulted in one terminal connected to the engine bay battery via the cable from the starter, a second terminal connected to the two AGM's, and the third connected to the inverter. This way, by positioning of the switch, I can run the inverter from engine, house, both, or none. I can also, tie the system together for starting/charging, if needed, or I can tie the inverter to only the engine battery to allow the planned solar to charge the house batteries while they had no draw on them. Remember, this harness was the starting battery harness for a diesel engine, so handling a V10 should be no problem.

The whole set up turned out pretty slick and the battery tray made up of two factory battery boxes, cut and welded together sits up under the side body very nice and compactly. Plus I have a jumper post just aft of the battery box to allow charging of the house bank independently of the engine if desired, of would also have allowed quick connection of a portable solar charging system.

For your system, I would find a way to disconnect the frame battery from the engine and then replicate the system I set up. This provides for a 210aH house system using a couple of group 31 AGM's.
Wow Ray -- this is slick! So cool you were able to re-purpose the 6.0 van harness too! I haven't seen a diesel in the PickNPull for a long time!

I'm thinking of building a frame for two group 31s from angle iron and suspending it from the interior.

You put yours on the passenger side frame rail? Underneath the rear doors?

Really cool job -- I'd probably use the ford battery boxes if I had them -- but I don't and it'll probably be cheaper just to build something out of stuff from the hardware store!
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Old 01-26-2020, 02:19 PM   #96
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Yes, passenger side frame rail under the side cargo doors. There are plenty of pre drilled holes in the frame. Just find four of the larger ones and plan accordingly.

-Consider using POR-15 to paint the battery tray before mounting.
-Thin piece of rubber between battery case and tray.
-Pre wire everything on the battery pack and carefully insulate the positive battery terminals/connections. Then make your connections to the van/house electrical circuits via fuse/terminal blocks. Use proper connection convention for running batteries in parallel: negative connection to van from one battery / positive connection to the van from the other battery.

A piece of 3/4 ply securely strapped with screws to a floor jacket becomes a nice lifting device for the battery pack.

It is a nice setup!

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