Replacement Stereo Power Woes

[falbhan]

Originally Posted by daveb

Current flow can cause those test probes to light up. You don't own a voltmeter? The light probes are great for finding a hot circuit but like whats posted, the ground wire (Aligator clip) must be hooked to the chassis somewhere not another circuit or wire unless you know it is a dedicated ground.

Have a voltmeter and that's what I've been using, with the exception of the bulb test to see if power ever dropped out. When testing, if I remember correctly, all my grounding of the voltmeter has been to the cigarette lighter. Think I need to ground right to the "frame"?

[daveb]

The outside of the lighter should be a good ground.
I'm not too sure about using the same connector when going from one brand radio to another. The schematic should show how to adapt to a Ford connector and I thought you said you used that. Maybe a call to Sony tech support or try to pump some info from a stereo shop. I really thought it would be that you tied the "always required hot wire" into the same circuit that works the dome lights. The radio doesn't require some kind of lithium battery installed as some kind of backup does it?

[spurious]

You said in your earlier post you were testing the yellow wire.

Is it possible you have the two power wires from your new stereo(yellow and red)switched.

You should have coming out of your new stereo:

Red wire connected to red/white wire of the factory harness

Yellow wire connected to yellow/black of the factory harness

Black wire connected to black/lt green of the factory harness

And your not using the Pioneer connector but the one provided with the Sony Stereo?

[falbhan]

Originally Posted by daveb

The outside of the lighter should be a good ground.
I'm not too sure about using the same connector when going from one brand radio to another. The schematic should show how to adapt to a Ford connector and I thought you said you used that. Maybe a call to Sony tech support or try to pump some info from a stereo shop. I really thought it would be that you tied the "always required hot wire" into the same circuit that works the dome lights. The radio doesn't require some kind of lithium battery installed as some kind of backup does it?

I'll try to clarify things a bit. I removed the old Pioneer unit installed at SMB West. I'm using the wiring connector that was used on Pioneer, the Pioneer had it's wiring harness connected to this connector. Not sure if it was the original Ford or some sort of 3rd party connector, but it was connected to the Pioneer via crimp connectors so it was pretty clearly installed by the installer installing the Pioneer.

On this connector the solid yellow wire lines up with and tests out as the red/white wire on the Ford connector that is part of the van's wiring harness. When I said yellow this is the yellow I'm referring to. To put it another way, if I don't use this connector to interface with the Ford wiring harness it's going to mean splicing directly into the wiring harness, which doesn't strike me as the way to go.

Don't see how I could be using the dome light circuit, but perhaps the Pioneer installer at SMB did something unusual. At this point it's about the only thing that makes sense.

[falbhan]

Originally Posted by spurious

You said in your earlier post you were testing the yellow wire.

Is it possible you have the two power wires from your new stereo(yellow and red)switched.

Not likely. I tried installing with these reversed and the stereo wouldn't operate.

You should have coming out of your new stereo:

Red wire connected to red/white wire of the factory harness

Nope. Per the install manual from Sony Red goes to ACC which is energized when ignition is in ACC position[/color]

Yellow wire connected to yellow/black of the factory harness

Nope again. Yellow out of Sony is to be connected to always on + which is fuse 22 and red/white in Ford wiring harness.

Black wire connected to black/lt green of the factory harness

Three strikes. Black ground out of Sony is attached directly to "frame" of van. Could it be that this makes a difference? Don't see how but I'm no expert.

And your not using the Pioneer connector but the one provided with the Sony Stereo?

Using the wiring harness that came with the Sony. This connects to the Ford wiring harness connector via a connector that was used by the SMB installer. Don't know if it's a 3rd party connector or a reused Ford connector from the original Ford stereo, but it's the only clean way to attach to the Ford wiring harness

[falbhan]

The latest thing I've tried is a new fuse for circuit 22, which is the always on for radio and instruments. Replaced fuse, set time and presets on Sony and then drove for almost an hour. Parked and turned van off, then let it sit for two hours.

Back in the van, key in and to ACC and again the time had reset and app presets disappeared. So, no progress.

While picking up fuses I also grabbed a couple of these add a circuits connectors that insert in an unused fuse spot and then provide a wire out. I don't have time to try it now as trying to get out of town for the holiday. When back I think I'll wire one of these in as a power supply for the Sony and see what happens. Seems cleaner than a dedicated wire straight to the battery.

Thanks for all the input guys. I appreciate all your insights and will certainly try anything else that might be suggested between now and my next chance to tinker.

Have a good Turkey Day!

[spurious]

I think what I would do is to try again hooking up to a test battery. Leaving the yellow wire on the battery and then disconnect the red for a while and re-connect to see if your perset are still there. I am guessing it still is going to be in the radio???

[jage]

My "dome light circuit" was nearly impossible to test when I came across it and was installing my CB power to it... it would test out fine long after I thought it should, even after I discovered the 12v was disappearing.

Basically in my SMB build it is a fat lightish green wire going up the A pillar, way too fat to carry juice to what it does- the two visor vanities. They're on after you open the door, close the door, have the key on, have the key off... I can't remember everything. However, if you have visor vanities you can verify when the power on this circuit goes off, when the vanity lights go out. I'd go time it, but I don't get my van back until Dec 3rd.

I only hope that's it because at this point it seems like an easy explanation for continued confounding results.