Stalls when put in reverse

[fatback1950@yahoo.com]

I installed Vantage Optics headlights and taillights. Lights work great. But when I started the van it stalls as soon as I put it in reverse. The dealer can not figure it out either. wondering if any else has had this problem.
Thanks

[REDOVAL]

I assume per our conversation you reinstalled the original lighting to rule out any installation or potential component related issues correct?

Scott Thompson
Vantage Optics

[carringb]

Are you 3rd brake lights burned out by chance?

If there isn't enough draw on the brake light circuit, this can happen. I have LED taillights as well, and also an LED F150 3rd brake light, which apparently is enough. But this was a common problem on EMS vehicles when LEDs started being installed, on units without a 3rd brake light. You can also just connect a trailer as a test. If there is no change after connecting a trailer, it's like only coincidental.

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by carringb

If there isn't enough draw on the brake light circuit, this can happen. I have LED taillights as well, and also an LED F150 3rd brake light, which apparently is enough.

My SMB came with led bulbs in the tail light housings, but the turn signals would rapid flash. I assumed I needed to add a resistor somewhere, but removed them instead and forgot I had them. Is there an easy fix for this?

[Twoxentrix]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

My SMB came with led bulbs in the tail light housings, but the turn signals would rapid flash. I assumed I needed to add a resistor somewhere, but removed them instead and forgot I had them. Is there an easy fix for this?

Before installing the LED Tail lights myself, I had read in numerous places where some people were experiencing issues with hyper-flashing - very random though.
Scott does sell a resistor for the Rear Tail lights to help guard against this.
www.vantageoptics.com

[BroncoHauler]

If your van is on flat ground, try starting the van in Neutral with your foot off the brake. Does it start and run?

Your van computer might think your foot is not on the brake is the LED bulbs are not providing the return signal that incandescent bulbs provide. I don't know the solution, but there must be one since many van owners have installed LED bulbs. Maybe an inline resistor?


Herb

[carringb]

On the hyper-flash issue.... FMVSS requires a bulb-out indicator on all light vehicles (under 10,000 GVW). The manufacturer can use a message center, a warning light, or hyper-flashing. This used to be accomplished in all cars by using bi-metallic flasher. Too much or too little current causes the hyper flash. The E-series continued using this flasher up until they finally adopted a BCM. Which I think was 2012.

So... if you van has a flasher module (inside fuse panel), you can swap it out for an electromechanical module. These basically work like a relay, and have a nicer "click" to them. These flash at the same speed no matter what. Just beware you'll no longer get the hyperflash with a bulb burned out. I installed this long ago, because more than one incandescent bulb per side on a trailer would cause hyperflash. So, when I did the LED upgrades, I never encountered this.

For the newer E-series with the BDM controller the turn signals, LEDs can be enabled in Forscan or by a dealer, to prevent the hyperflash.

Or, as noted, a resistor can be added. Most the LED sellers have plug-n-play resistor packs available. Or you can make you own, but I don't remember the minimum OHMs required. I'm not a fan of doing this, because you end up restoring the power draw you saved by switching to LEDs, which means shorter run time if you need to keep the lights going without the engine running. Also, these resistors get hot, and might not necessarily be sitting a spot intended to get hot. I've seen melted light housings and burned paint from this (MB era Chryslers had to use resistors for any lighting upgrade).

The stalling in reverse thing was a TSB that I remember reading a while back, which could happen with insufficient 3rd brake light draw specifically, if the taillights were switched to LED. It could also cause a no-shift-interlock release. Solution is simply to also add more draw, using more lights, reverting back to incadescent for the 3rd brake light, or adding a resistor.

[REDOVAL]

I provided a turn signal relay that prevents the hyperflash and bulb out conditions with this order.

Scott Thompson
Vantage Optics

[jimtmcdaniels]

Wow you got the answer from everyone, great info to know.
I find led bulbs are best used only for interior lights, trunk and hood lights. Areas where they might be left on for a long while draining the battery might not start the vehicle after.
Also the 3rd brake light bulbs that often burn out.
But my vehicles aren’t new enough yet to need the canbus system fool resisters.