isotherm refrigerator Vs norcold refrigerator ?

[daveb]

I agree and have stated that in other threads. I have yet to do such a comparison but just know my usage made an abrupt change overnight after SMB installed the new fridge. Just where the fridge is located can even make a difference. So can air flow. There are so many variables that a real test would be a side by side comparison of the old and new in a controlled environment at various temps. I'm not doubting your results though and agree the Danfoss compressor is well built and an improvement. I still have reservations on if Norcold is the better choice compared to others. There are a few articles done on "which is the best refrigerator" done in the Expedition Portal magazine. It was on portables and probably apples & oranges. Unlike you I found the new Norcold fridge I had installed actually seems to cycle on and off more than my older unit but the run time (while the compressor is working) is way less. It also goes from off to 45* much quicker than the original. Shorter run times alone might make the total AH lower in the end. So far the difference between the two isn't enough for me to do a swap. Just adding better insulation might be worth looking into. I'm not a Norcold hater even if it seems like I am. Just saying what my non-experimental finding have been over the last year or so. I'd love to see a side by side comparison one of these days of the various models.

[jkolodzinski]

I have Sportsmobile for only a few months. I wish a had a 3-way propane ref. Quiet and can run 30 or more days on the built in propane tank. Previously I had VW Eurocamper, with 1.8 fridge. I never had to be concerned about single 100 Amp battery. Now I have 3 50 Watts solar panels, which in the full sun can generate 8-9 Amps. In addition, I have a small 1000 W Honda generator. This setup, with 2 100 AGM batteries work fine. I can dry camp indefinitely. Do not take 2000W Inventor from Sportsmobile, with 2 batteries and electric ref there is not enough capacity left for anything except the refrigerator and a few LED lights. I got $1700 credit from them for switching to 60 Amp converter/charger. Temperature in the lower part of your fridge should be between 32-35 F, very close to freezing, not 45.
The new Norcold NR 751 have full width freezer, enough to keep an ice tray, 1.5 Qt container of ice cream, and a few steaks for future use. Maybe this is a reason for more energy use? I don't know, never had any experience with other electric RV refrigerators. In my case it works fine, everything is frozen in the freezer, and cold enough in lower compartment.

[larrie]

Originally Posted by jkolodzinski

. I got $1700 credit from them for switching to 60 Amp converter/charger.

Which converter/charger did they install?

[jkolodzinski]

Inteli-Power 9200 Series from Progressive Dynamics, Inc

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by jkolodzinski

Inteli-Power 9200 Series from Progressive Dynamics, Inc

Does it have the charge wizard? For reasons that are beyond me....it's an option.......

[jkolodzinski]

Originally Posted by boywonder

Does it have the charge wizard? For reasons that are beyond me....it's an option.......

No, but I bought one on Amazon for $10. I think a retail version comes with wizard.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[LenS]

Originally Posted by jkolodzinski

I have Sportsmobile for only a few months. I wish a had a 3-way propane ref. Quiet and can run 30 or more days on the built in propane tank. Previously I had VW Eurocamper, with 1.8 fridge. I never had to be concerned about single 100 Amp battery. Now I have 3 50 Watts solar panels, which in the full sun can generate 8-9 Amps. In addition, I have a small 1000 W Honda generator. This setup, with 2 100 AGM batteries work fine. I can dry camp indefinitely. Do not take 2000W Inventor from Sportsmobile, with 2 batteries and electric ref there is not enough capacity left for anything except the refrigerator and a few LED lights. I got $1700 credit from them for switching to 60 Amp converter/charger. Temperature in the lower part of your fridge should be between 32-35 F, very close to freezing, not 45.
The new Norcold NR 751 have full width freezer, enough to keep an ice tray, 1.5 Qt container of ice cream, and a few steaks for future use. Maybe this is a reason for more energy use? I don't know, never had any experience with other electric RV refrigerators. In my case it works fine, everything is frozen in the freezer, and cold enough in lower compartment.

Standard refrig temp is 40f per most if not all county health departments. Saying that I have found that RV refrigerators have temperatures all over the map. We do try to hold ~40f in the refrig., 35f would in general use an additional 15%-20% more power from the batteries. Feel good when we can hold 35f-45f over a day. In that range everything in our freezer stays frozen per expert (wife).

[jkolodzinski]

Originally Posted by LenS

Standard refrig temp is 40f per most if not all county health departments. Saying that I have found that RV refrigerators have temperatures all over the map. We do try to hold ~40f in the refrig., 35f would in general use an additional 15%-20% more power from the batteries. Feel good when we can hold 35f-45f over a day. In that range everything in our freezer stays frozen per expert (wife).

My fridge thermometer shows 35-40 F as a safe zone. I guess, it would be OK to go slightly over 40 for short time (a few hours). What type of refrigerator you have, and what is your amp usage over 24 hours?

[LenS]

Ours is a modified Energy Star (219kWh) Igloo 3.2 cf 110 volt A/C refrigerator. Freezer 0.7cf, refrig. 2.5cf. Modified it by adding more insulation and thermometers. 72F ambient and 40F refrig. (freezer ~20F) draws 20-25Ah per day (including Xantrex SW 1000 current draw to run refrig.on 110v A/C).

[jkolodzinski]

Originally Posted by LenS

Ours is a modified Energy Star (219kWh) Igloo 3.2 cf 110 volt A/C refrigerator. Freezer 0.7cf, refrig. 2.5cf. Modified it by adding more insulation and thermometers. 72F ambient and 40F refrig. (freezer ~20F) draws 20-25Ah per day (including Xantrex SW 1000 current draw to run refrig.on 110v A/C).

If your energy Star is 219 kWh/yr then 219000/365=600 Watt/day
600Watt/day at 12 volt = 50 Ah from your battery.
25 Ah is very impressive. Are you sure your numbers are right?
Why people are paying 5-10 times more for AC/DC refrigerators?