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Old 12-14-2010, 08:51 AM   #11
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Maybe a little late as you have the cabinets built but what about full length extension draw sliders. Two 80lb rails should support the table pretty well.

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Old 12-14-2010, 09:46 AM   #12
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Quote:
(it's hard to get a good photographic angle inside a van...)
You should try it while under the van.

Excellent job. Looks very nice. I like your use of the baskets. I'm at the planning stage for my own pull-out top/swing up top. There's a bunch of ways to do it and I'm still not sure which is best.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:35 AM   #13
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by spomo1
Maybe a little late as you have the cabinets built but what about full length extension draw sliders. Two 80lb rails should support the table pretty well.
You know, I was looking at drawer sliders at Lowe's on Sunday. I could unscrew the top, trim about 1" off the table width to accomodate the sliders, put some shims on top of the cabinet to allow for the height added by the sliders... I'll do a bit more noodling on the idea, but it might work.

Thanks!
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:31 PM   #14
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

....continued...

Yesterday I posted about the work that's about 90% complete on the bunk and counter/cabinet. Today I'm turning my attention to something I know nothing about, and with which I could use a lot of help.

In the first build, my galley box sat on the floor in front of the 40 side door; the contents were accessible only when the door was open.



As you see, the front drops down, and there's a gate-leg extension to the top.

In the remodel, I'd like to reverse the galleybox setup, and hang it from the 40 door, so that it is usable with the door both open and closed. And of course, I'd need to switch the side the gate-leg table extension is on.

Can anyone provide pictures/advice/instructions on how to hang a box from the door?

Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:12 AM   #15
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

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Originally Posted by BroncoHauler
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyDawg
I need to make a removable leg to support the rear front corner when it is fully extended, as it tends to slant downward a bit when it is past the tipping point.
Removable leg, or cables hanging from the ceiling? Not sure which would be less in your way.
There are these nifty things they invented in, oh, about 2005 maybe, called drawer sliders:


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Old 12-15-2010, 08:56 AM   #16
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Yes, Spomo1 suggested "full length extension" drawer slides. I looked at the local Lowe's and HD yesterday evening, and all they had were 3/4 extension slides, which won't do the trick, so I"ll have to look further for full extension slides.

On the other hand, the 3/4 extension slides will work nicely for the storage under the ice chest and the adjacent cabinet.

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone!
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:15 AM   #17
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Rockler.com has full extension guides (as well as over travel guides). If you do not have local Rockler's you can order on line.
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:17 PM   #18
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Looks good.

Are those counter tops the pine slabs from Lowes/Home Depot?

I like the baskets. Good use of space and light. I am trying to think of a better solution for the doors. My drop down and sideways opening drawers really get in the way when open and i am trying to get something. And the floor has to be clear of stuff (and dogs).

A bungee across the opening would hold the drawers in but may look a little too informal. another idea is a 1/4 inch plywood door panel, inserted into some sort of slot at the bottom, and held in place by a small rare earth magnet on the cabinet carcass and a small metal plate on the door. Just pull off and set aside. Those magnets are pretty stout.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:17 PM   #19
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

For draw sliders I can recommend Schock Metal.
Web site: Schock Metal
Wide selection and good prices.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:32 PM   #20
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Re: GreyDawg's build, v.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedog225
Looks good.

Are those counter tops the pine slabs from Lowes/Home Depot?

I like the baskets. Good use of space and light. I am trying to think of a better solution for the doors. My drop down and sideways opening drawers really get in the way when open and i am trying to get something. And the floor has to be clear of stuff (and dogs).

A bungee across the opening would hold the drawers in but may look a little too informal. another idea is a 1/4 inch plywood door panel, inserted into some sort of slot at the bottom, and held in place by a small rare earth magnet on the cabinet carcass and a small metal plate on the door. Just pull off and set aside. Those magnets are pretty stout.

The countertops are edge-glued aspen "project planks" from the Lowe's (Shoal Creek Blvd.). I guess I could have used pine, but I wanted to minimize splotchiness of the Polyshades stain (that decision was before LenS explained that the tint is suspended in the polyurethane, so it probably wouldn't have made much of a difference. In fact, the sliding desktop is birch plywood, and it Polyshaded-up to the same tone. I love what I learn on this forum!)

The bifold doors cut the "getting in the way" factor in half, but when you've got "helpful" dogs who want to see whatcha doin', well.... nothing helps!

Putting a panel into a lower lip and securing with magnets might work really well. The magnets need to be really strong: I tried using magnetic cabinet latches in the previous build, and that was an abject failure.
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