For insulation - rule #1 is do not compress or stuff such that the insulation is made to be dense. This is why Thinsulate is great for walls and terrible for floors.
Thermozite, havelock fine on walls unless it is an unusually humid environment, in which case Thinsulate’s hydrophobic qualities aren’t very effective.
Any insulation that can retain water if spilled does not belong in the floor insulating layers. Water will spill and once absorbed by insulation that is not water repellent, it will stay there for the duration until the floor is lifted and allowed to air dry. Rigid foam panels, van bed rug, or anything that will raise the floor (creates air space) and creates a convection and conduction break is going to be most effective. Filling the valleys between ribs really is not necessary as still air is a wonderful insulator. fyi - I painted the entire van floor and up the sides to the pinch seam with POR 15 to create a moisture barrier for the metal van floor against the eventual water spill. I was very careful around the body to frame bolts as POR15 dries very hard.
Noico/Dynamat/etc on floors -I just have to ask - Why?? Sound deadening comes from mass - eg lead, concrete, etc. A 1/2” plywood floor with neoprene strips where it contacts the ribs will provide far more mass (neoprene provides disconnect with metal surface, so does van bed rug) than any adhesive product. add some insulation, flooring and possibly carpet and the sound deadening is quite effective. Use Dynamat sparingly on/in the walls and doors and up higher on the fire wall, but no need to go nuts with it. Sound should be addressed like “water” - a hole will allow sound waves to pass just like it will allow water to leak in. Fill the holes, seal the doors, engine hatch, etc. to cut out the majority of sound.
Walls - insulate the inner face of the outer sheet metal and insulate the inner wall of the inner sheet metal to create a captive airspace which is really very efficient at insulating. Seal off all seams with tape. no stuffing - just loosely inserted and glued in place.
Windows (biggest heat loss) - same concept of thermal breaks and conductive and radiation breaks using Reflectix. For all the side and rear door windows I just did Reflectix (air pockets)outside against window glued to Coroplast (plastic “cardboard” - more air pockets) with a layer of grey heather trunk liner inside. These have been really very effective as tested on our current ski trip. 70 degrees in the van and the window surfaces from outside read 16 degrees - very little, if any, heat loss with those panels.
Attachment 31649
Attachment 31650
This week we have been at Deer Valley/Park City camping - CCV Pop Top w insulated canvas plus a few mods I am testing for the raised top insulation. Rest of cabin is very well insulated Including all windows - Espar running around 66 on the thermostat - very comfy!! Hope all that helps
Margot
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