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Old 02-08-2020, 06:25 PM   #1
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Havelock wool anyone?

Has anyone used Havelock wool for insulation in their van? Any thoughts to share about using it instead of Thinsulate? I am doing a layer of Noico against the bare metal and would like to try using this for the thermal layer.

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Old 02-08-2020, 06:39 PM   #2
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Good timing for this question. I’m at that stage right now and have gone back and forth in researching the two. Finally, I think I’ve reached a decision. Since Thinsulate is so easy to apply to big, flat surfaces, that’s where I’m going to put it. Then I’m going to use Havelock wool for all the tiny crevices I found after taking off all my lower trim.

I’m sure you’ve found the reliable sources for both of these products. (See member Hein here as a Thinsulate supplier.) Folks have terrific things to say about both. To my mind, Thinsulate is great for those “open” spaces where nothing is available to hold the insulation in. Goes on well with the 3M spray. The Havelock looks like it requires more constraining, so I’ll push it into those nooks and crannies.

Look forward to seeing what you discover and decide.
.
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Old 02-08-2020, 11:29 PM   #3
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For insulation - rule #1 is do not compress or stuff such that the insulation is made to be dense. This is why Thinsulate is great for walls and terrible for floors.
Thermozite, havelock fine on walls unless it is an unusually humid environment, in which case Thinsulate’s hydrophobic qualities aren’t very effective.

Any insulation that can retain water if spilled does not belong in the floor insulating layers. Water will spill and once absorbed by insulation that is not water repellent, it will stay there for the duration until the floor is lifted and allowed to air dry. Rigid foam panels, van bed rug, or anything that will raise the floor (creates air space) and creates a convection and conduction break is going to be most effective. Filling the valleys between ribs really is not necessary as still air is a wonderful insulator. fyi - I painted the entire van floor and up the sides to the pinch seam with POR 15 to create a moisture barrier for the metal van floor against the eventual water spill. I was very careful around the body to frame bolts as POR15 dries very hard.

Noico/Dynamat/etc on floors -I just have to ask - Why?? Sound deadening comes from mass - eg lead, concrete, etc. A 1/2” plywood floor with neoprene strips where it contacts the ribs will provide far more mass (neoprene provides disconnect with metal surface, so does van bed rug) than any adhesive product. add some insulation, flooring and possibly carpet and the sound deadening is quite effective. Use Dynamat sparingly on/in the walls and doors and up higher on the fire wall, but no need to go nuts with it. Sound should be addressed like “water” - a hole will allow sound waves to pass just like it will allow water to leak in. Fill the holes, seal the doors, engine hatch, etc. to cut out the majority of sound.

Walls - insulate the inner face of the outer sheet metal and insulate the inner wall of the inner sheet metal to create a captive airspace which is really very efficient at insulating. Seal off all seams with tape. no stuffing - just loosely inserted and glued in place.

Windows (biggest heat loss) - same concept of thermal breaks and conductive and radiation breaks using Reflectix. For all the side and rear door windows I just did Reflectix (air pockets)outside against window glued to Coroplast (plastic “cardboard” - more air pockets) with a layer of grey heather trunk liner inside. These have been really very effective as tested on our current ski trip. 70 degrees in the van and the window surfaces from outside read 16 degrees - very little, if any, heat loss with those panels.

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This week we have been at Deer Valley/Park City camping - CCV Pop Top w insulated canvas plus a few mods I am testing for the raised top insulation. Rest of cabin is very well insulated Including all windows - Espar running around 66 on the thermostat - very comfy!! Hope all that helps
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Old 02-09-2020, 12:32 AM   #4
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Thanks Ray for spelling it all out in such detail! And glad to hear that you are staying warm out there in the snow. I’m looking forward to getting all my insulation in place and heading up to Mammoth ASAP. Per your suggestion, I’ve got some POR 15 and neoprene tape on its way to put under my flooring. Still trying to to decide how to do the windows. I’m thinking Reflectix and some light and airy foam sewn into some nylon.

Otter, I too have a pass van and like your idea of combining Thinsulate and Havelock. I’d prefer to go all Havelock but it just depends on how I plan to hold it in place. Not sure if it can stay evenly flat like Thinsulate. Wouldn’t want to use it to cover large areas and have it settle downward after miles and miles of bouncing down the road.
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Old 02-09-2020, 01:05 PM   #5
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^^^ Ya, JM, that’s what I wondered. I should be starting my project as soon as it gets a bit, so we should keep each other informed.
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Old 02-09-2020, 06:14 PM   #6
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Ok sounds good Otter! Might order up a bag or two and see how the stuff feels.
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Old 02-09-2020, 09:23 PM   #7
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We ordered a bag of R13 and a bag of R7 since Havelock is about 10 miles away.
Have only used less than one roll since we're currently fixing a lot of SMB created design issues in order to install insulation in the walls/doors.
It does have a farm smell that supposedly dissipates after some fresh air.
It is easy to cut with quality scissors.
No itchiness/scratchiness.
Havelocks website is rather informative as are several youtube videos.
https://havelockwool.com/
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...=havelock+wool
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Old 02-11-2020, 08:10 AM   #8
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Ordered 2 bags of R7. Let’s give it a try!

If anyone else wants to order here is a referral link that gives me a little discount or something:

http://havelockwool.refr.cc/joemullins
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Old 02-16-2020, 03:58 PM   #9
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Instead I used Free polyfil and polyfill batting taken from the inside of discarded sofas and sofa chairs and jumbo ottomans are all full of the stuff. Found my apartment complex dumpsters or thrift store dumpsters.
It’s generally made from recycled 2 liter bottles and absorbs no moisture and is Free and reusing to help our planet.
Very happy with it.
Take care
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:25 AM   #10
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No evidence of Havelock drop...

Quote:
Originally Posted by thejm View Post
Thanks Ray for spelling it all out in such detail! And glad to hear that you are staying warm out there in the snow. I’m looking forward to getting all my insulation in place and heading up to Mammoth ASAP. Per your suggestion, I’ve got some POR 15 and neoprene tape on its way to put under my flooring. Still trying to to decide how to do the windows. I’m thinking Reflectix and some light and airy foam sewn into some nylon.

Otter, I too have a pass van and like your idea of combining Thinsulate and Havelock. I’d prefer to go all Havelock but it just depends on how I plan to hold it in place. Not sure if it can stay evenly flat like Thinsulate. Wouldn’t want to use it to cover large areas and have it settle downward after miles and miles of bouncing down the road.
I’m using Havelock in all areas of my van as I do not want to add a bunch more chemicals to an already potentially loaded area. I will have my K9’s who use their noses for work and myself, and my lungs are sensitive to start with. I have read many many articles and even on where the walls were opened after a number of years and there was no sag! Good news for me along with the other positive benefits of this product. Best of luck and happy travels!
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