Sulastic shackles

[vandiesel]

Eric did you get a resolution to this? I’m curious what sulastic said. Here are some pictures of mine after my Death Valley trip where I actually had to pull my rear springs and have them re-arched. It looks like mine are failing in the rear also.

[ShuttlePilot]

Vandiesel, I did not contact Sulastic after I removed them. Two years ago when mine went out I made the decision that this project exercise is complete for me and moved in another direction for my front suspension. I have been running the same 2" longer solid shackle seen above (this has centered the neutral ride height in the axle travel and added yet another inch up to the bump stops), added limit straps (after realizing a lot of my harshness was the shocks bottoming out even on modest bumps) and adjusting the tow angle to 0 degrees. This configuration is working well as the non - Sulastic configuration.

Internet reviews regarding the company seems to be that they will likely send out a replacement without protest. And, that could be an option to just replace them every couple of years as a wear item. Albeit an expensive one. I believe the design is great and produces the intended result, however the current elastomer, in this model at least, is not suited for our weight of vehicle or terrain we drive.


- Eric

[vandiesel]

What shackles did you end up with on the rear? I see the 9" cut down to 7" in the front. Since I don't have any shackles except sulastic at the moment and need to reassemble the rear I'm on the hunt. I noticed a lot of washers also centering the rear springs when I took them off. Unfortunately they dropped before I could snap a picture of where they were. Do your rears self center without the sulastics? Sorry for so many questions and thanks for so much information getting this right.

[ShuttlePilot]

I only installed the Sulastic shackles on the front. The front is what was beating me up more than the back. My rear set up is mostly stock. I do have Deaver springs all around installed in 2010 but those seem to have the stock E350 spring eye opening size, the original rear shackle, however I did replace the three bushings with Energy Suspensions urethane kit. My springs/shackles don't utilize any washers for centering but there is a side flange on the urethane bushings. My springs also squeeze inward at the front (frame side pivot) some, riding on that urethane side flange some and this sounds normal as it was discussed in another thread talking about the urethane bushings. I'm not sure what rear springs and bushings you have so use caution before copying my setup assuming it fits. I'm near the van today so if you need any measurements or photos let me know.


Here is the link to that other rear bushing conversation. Might be some information that could help.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ngs-29769.html


- Eric

[vandiesel]

I have Deavers as well. Oregon Spring just re-arched mine and added 1 leaf. Incidentally they pressed in new bushings which are not the urethane which I like as well. I may have to go to junkyard and get shackles. A pic of your rear shackle would be helpful. Thanks again.

-Brad

[ShuttlePilot]

Passenger side, I was trying to determine if the shackles are symmetrical and can be used on either side. Looks like they might be.






This is what I was saying that the front eye squeezes inward as you can see all of the urethane side flange outboard but none on the inside. It is the same on both sides. I'm just mentioning this as maybe the washers were installed on yours to try to counteract this.




- Eric

[TheLetterJ]

If you're in the market for new shackles and want something more substantial than OEM, you can use shackles intended for 80-96 F-series as a direct replacement. I recently picked up longer "boomerang" style shackles intended for a 1st gen Raptor for the rear of my van. The added length increases the range of motion which is beneficial with a high arched spring, and the boomerang shape further increases range of motion by preventing the shackle from resting on the hanger at full droop and keeping the spring from hitting the shackle on full compression without having to run a very long shackle (which won't easily fit under the floor anyway without also using dropped shackle hangers.) Just be aware that going with anything longer than the stock 4.5" eye to eye measurement will result in a lower ride height by half the difference in length (my 6" shackles drop the rear about 3/4".) Also be aware of clearance between the shackle and the body if you have factory rear a/c or any other lines mounted under the floor/over the shackle. About 6.5" eye to eye looks like the end of the road for a bolt-on length, that'd result in a ~1" drop in ride height.

Here's what I'm using: https://dirtkingfabrication.com/prod...kles-dk-900802